ahardb0dy

Sorry forgot to mention this is my former 90 sentra

Checked the injector just now, FSM says resistance should be approximately 1-2 ohms, I got 3.4 ohms, so I guess it could be shot ! I have the old injector in storage going to check that one, originally when I replaced the injector it was causing an intermittent problem, I want to see what the resistance is on the old injector, if it is within spec, I'll swap it just to see if the engine will start. Don't want to order a injector for $60 if it won't fix the problem. I did find a hose that blew out, under the intake manifold, a royal PIA to get too !! It's one of the hoses that feeds coolant into the manifold and it was feeding coolant into the TB but a while back I broke a nipple off one of the larger nipples where the hose connects to the TB, so I had to rig up something so the coolant still would go to the thermal element. No idea at this point why it would overheat, I replaced the water pump and thermostat a while back. I went and got the old injector from my storage, I checked the resistance and it was within spec so I swapped it, still won't start, and I can smell fuel getting into the TB. I'm at a loss now as to why it won't start, need suggestions. also tried swapping the module near the coil, no difference, was thinking to pull the valve cover next to see if anything looks weird. I don't have a comp. tester and I guess that would be something I should check ?? Any other ideas?

So my former 90 sentra that I sold to my step daughter and her BF won't start. She said the engine was making a noise than was running hot, the BF flushed the radiator and than filled it with well water !! The water smelled so bad it was hard for me to describe what it smelled like, I drained it and flushed the system, did not add any coolant yet. She said the BF changed the oil ( first time in about 20K miles !!!), not very good on preventative maint. that's for sure !! She told me the engine noise had become less noticeable, the other day she was on her way to our house when she said the temp gauge got to the upper end of hot and than the car back fired and the gauge went down to the bottom (cold), she had to pull over and she checked the radiator and noticed the rad. cap was also cold. She had the car towed to my house and I started to check things. Today I pulled the plugs, they were shot so I put new NGK plugs in, I checked for spark at two of the plug wires and it has spark. I pulled the distributor cap and cranked the engine to make sure the cam was turning, it was. I pulled the output hose off the fuel filter and had my wife turn the key to on, the fuel pump pumped gas right into the container I was using. So, car has spark, fuel through the filter, cranks but won't start. I tried pouring a small amount of gas into the TB but no difference, still won't start. I checked any fuse related to the ignition and all fuses were good. I have to test the injector tomorrow, I'm thinking maybe the injector took a crap, I also found a split hose under the intake manifold. Any other idea's on why it won't start? No codes in ECU. I have to get the car back running if I can for her. Thanks all !!

I would say so !

Yw

the rear torsion bar anchor should have a "C" clip on it holding it in, you need to remove that before the anchor will come off the bar, also I would put a jack stand under the frame so when you loosen the torsion bar adjusting bolt the truck doesn't come down on top of you.

There is an "auto control amp" on page 62 of the 94 FSM, right of the gas pedal in the diagram, plug number 4A, not sure if that is what they are referring too. Than on page 97 there is a circuit board that says "control amp"

both the starter bolts? If the bolts did break, they thread into the starter so maybe you can get the starter and bolts out.

I haven't seen the front or rear anchors strip out but I did split the whole lower control arm on my 87 hardbody one time which caused the pass. front to drop down, luckily I had 2 stage torsion bars so the secondary adjuster prevented the tire from eating the fender.

I use tinypic.com, no problems

your correct, I was just saying if there is room for the rear anchor on the side that is low to move up into the cross member than I would try that first. If the rear anchor arm is already up as far as it will go, than you have no choice but to re-index the bars.

Sorry I meant to say the rear anchor, the part the bolt goes through. part marked with the red asterisk in diagram below:

Thanks, I sold the sentra too ! Have a 93 Hardbody 2wd now. Before you re-index the bars, look to see where the rear adjuster is sitting on the low side, if there is room for it to move up further I would try to adjust it first. If you have to re-index the bars, best to take them out completely, so you can get the rear anchor arm off, than when putting the anchor arm back on, try to "clock" it further down than the way it was when you removed it, you can only move the anchor arm so much than you run out of bolt length.

The link to the how to is in my reply now, left it out when I first posted,

what color are the rear coils?

31's were a stock size, what size are the rears? they look about the same size. Don't know if the rear is so high because the front is so low but the rear shouldn't be that high if everything is stock. here is the "how to" on re-indexing the torsion bars. http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/topic/17038-how-to-re-index-your-torsion-bars/ When you go to re-index, you will loosen both adjusters, than when you re-set it back up just make sure you put both rear anchors in the same place, than as you adjust the adjusting bolt you tighten each side the same and the truck should be close to the same height. My former 94 was adjusted wrong when I bought it, the pass. side was lower than your drivers side, you can see how low it was here, it doesn't even have the flare on it in this pic: this was after I re-indexed the bars ( old wore out 31's on in these pics): this was before I sold it, on new 31's, the front did settle slightly from when I first re-indexed the bars, but the rear is no where as high as in your picture:

Could be the clutches in the tranny are shot, when my tranny went out the first time in my 87 HB I lost drive (first I think it actually was) and my tranny guy told me reverse would go out next as they are on the same clutch pack.' Have you tried seeing if the truck will move at all in 1 or 2 instead of drive? If it turns out to be a internal problem better off doing the xterra trans swap, Adam can guide you through that as he just did it in his, I had the tranny rebuilt in my 87 hardbody, 3 times, each time cost $2k or more, wouldn't do it again

What size tires are on the truck? If the UCA (upper control arm) is touching the bumpstop, the front end is raised too high, the truck will ride like crap due to having no downward suspension travel. If the truck does not need to be raised that high and it has stock sized tires I would adjust the torsion bars to proper spec on each side. Re-indexing is most used to get more height for when the rear anchor has no more room to move upward in the cross member, I wouldn't refer to the amount of thread sticking out of the top of the rear cross member as to determining height, simply because if the rear anchors were not installed in the same exact place, left to right, the amount of thread sticking out the top would be different but the truck could still be at the right height. Better to measure as the FSM shows on the page I suggested.

The FSM can be downloaded for free from here: http://www.nicoclub.com/FSM/Pathfinder/1995_Pathfinder/ The shocks have nothing to do with ride height, leaking or not they just provide dampening . Check the low side and look to see how much space is between the bottom of the upper control arm and the rubber bump stop, compare the space to the opposite side. If on the corner that is low the space between the bump stop and Upper control arm is less than the opposite side you can try to raise the low side by tightening the torsion bar adjusting bolt. You don't have to replace the torsion bar, you can adjust the one side, or if it keeps sagging you may want to replace both, always replace torsion bars in pairs, they only sell them in pairs anyway. I would not recommend buying used torsion bars, if you do, make sure you mark them left and right front and back, torsion bars are a form of a spring, they take a memory after years of use and it is not good to reverse a bar. There is a way to measure the ride height in the FSM, if the rubber bump stops are missing, see page 41 in the FA section, middle of the page where it says "except 2wd trucks" in the diagram When the starter is activated by turning the key the bendix should get pushed out, (there is a large spring type part in there that pushes it out), when the bendix gets pushed out it is supposed to engage the teeth on the flywheel, it's possible ( and likely) the starter is original, I would not bother with replacing just the solenoid, replace the whole starter and save yourself the headache of having to take it back out again to replace the starter motor. Here is a pic of the spring on the solenoid: I highly recommend either a Nissan OEM starter or a NEW aftermarket one, reman starters SUCK unless you like replacing it every week or month. I unbolt the starter from the bottom, not hard to do with a long extention, once un-bolted and with the battery disconnected, and oil filter removed, you can tilt the starter to disconnect the wires. I know it's a pain to remove , once I removed my starter in my former 94 PF from the top, once I went out the front after removing the idler arm.

my former 94 had 2 keys when I got it than I re-keyed all the locks to match the ignition and re-keyed my former sentra locks to also match the PF ignition

the 4 door pathfinder has the LED's and the knob to switch modes at the rear of the ECU, no idea why on the hardbody they put the knob and LED's facing the center of the truck..

In the 4 door pathfinders at least you don't need to remove the seat to access the ECU, sliding it fully forward gives enough access to the ECU, not sure on the 2 door pf's on how much access there is. Looking forward to doing this mod in my 93 HB when i get it back from my mechanic.

they make these for American engines to keep an eye on thermostats, and also make clear valve covers: http://www.horsepowermonster.com/2014/clear-parts-let-you-see-whats-going-on-inside-your-engine/

On the TV show Full Custom Garage the guy just made a dune buggy electric using a fork lift motor:

Thanks, for the replies. Not looking to use it or any treatment, just wanted to know if it could change the color of the oil as the P.O. used it a lot in my truck.