ahardb0dy

If all he changed was the cable it shouldn't change his speed on the gauge.

they are cheap enough, replace it. Better safe than sorry

Stock Leather covered one from an "LE" pathfinder

You can only get the cables from a dealer or used. I just bought one for my 2wd hardbody. The length should not effect the reading.

drill a hole in the clutch master cylinder delete plate and use a rubber grommet, much better appearance and no worry about the wires rubbing against metal, Was going to say if the truck has no AC there would be a similiar plate on the pass. side.

PM me your vin number and I can decode it to positively tell you what options your truck originally came with

the top of the plugs being clean means nothing, pull the plugs and look at them. You may need someone to turn the key to "on" while you lay under the truck to hear the fuel pump. To get to the fuel pump there is a access panel in the rear cargo area under the carpet.

No, don't want to take it apart yet, just wanted to see if what I am seeing may indicate it is bad, I'll have my guy replace it if it's bad, I paid him to put it in and he bought it so he can do it.

This is in my 93 hardbody with the KA24E engine: I think the new thermostat my mech. buddy put in is not working, this is what it is doing, let me know what you think. Temp gauge sits just below center after coming to temp and driving . Heat is not the greatest, tried bleeding air out of the air relief screw a few times, no change. The plastic top of the radiator gets HOT ! I mean if you accidentally touch it, IT'S HOT ! upper hose gets real hot, lower hose does not. Water in radiator is only warm No matter how long the engine is running I can take the radiator cap off and there is no pressure, put a new cap on yesterday after work, let the truck idle for about 20 minutes and still no pressure when taking the cap off. Water is being pushed out the overflow hose ( this was with the old radiator cap, did not see any water come out with the new cap) yet ! What do you think? water pump was also replaced. Thanks

They say (locksmith forum) that WD40 is good to clean out the lock cylinder than lube it with a pure silicone spray, most locksmiths do not recommend the graphite stuff .

I would say so !

Yw

the rear torsion bar anchor should have a "C" clip on it holding it in, you need to remove that before the anchor will come off the bar, also I would put a jack stand under the frame so when you loosen the torsion bar adjusting bolt the truck doesn't come down on top of you.

There is an "auto control amp" on page 62 of the 94 FSM, right of the gas pedal in the diagram, plug number 4A, not sure if that is what they are referring too. Than on page 97 there is a circuit board that says "control amp"

both the starter bolts? If the bolts did break, they thread into the starter so maybe you can get the starter and bolts out.

I haven't seen the front or rear anchors strip out but I did split the whole lower control arm on my 87 hardbody one time which caused the pass. front to drop down, luckily I had 2 stage torsion bars so the secondary adjuster prevented the tire from eating the fender.

I use tinypic.com, no problems

your correct, I was just saying if there is room for the rear anchor on the side that is low to move up into the cross member than I would try that first. If the rear anchor arm is already up as far as it will go, than you have no choice but to re-index the bars.

Sorry I meant to say the rear anchor, the part the bolt goes through. part marked with the red asterisk in diagram below:

Thanks, I sold the sentra too ! Have a 93 Hardbody 2wd now. Before you re-index the bars, look to see where the rear adjuster is sitting on the low side, if there is room for it to move up further I would try to adjust it first. If you have to re-index the bars, best to take them out completely, so you can get the rear anchor arm off, than when putting the anchor arm back on, try to "clock" it further down than the way it was when you removed it, you can only move the anchor arm so much than you run out of bolt length.

The link to the how to is in my reply now, left it out when I first posted,

what color are the rear coils?

31's were a stock size, what size are the rears? they look about the same size. Don't know if the rear is so high because the front is so low but the rear shouldn't be that high if everything is stock. here is the "how to" on re-indexing the torsion bars. http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/topic/17038-how-to-re-index-your-torsion-bars/ When you go to re-index, you will loosen both adjusters, than when you re-set it back up just make sure you put both rear anchors in the same place, than as you adjust the adjusting bolt you tighten each side the same and the truck should be close to the same height. My former 94 was adjusted wrong when I bought it, the pass. side was lower than your drivers side, you can see how low it was here, it doesn't even have the flare on it in this pic: this was after I re-indexed the bars ( old wore out 31's on in these pics): this was before I sold it, on new 31's, the front did settle slightly from when I first re-indexed the bars, but the rear is no where as high as in your picture:

Could be the clutches in the tranny are shot, when my tranny went out the first time in my 87 HB I lost drive (first I think it actually was) and my tranny guy told me reverse would go out next as they are on the same clutch pack.' Have you tried seeing if the truck will move at all in 1 or 2 instead of drive? If it turns out to be a internal problem better off doing the xterra trans swap, Adam can guide you through that as he just did it in his, I had the tranny rebuilt in my 87 hardbody, 3 times, each time cost $2k or more, wouldn't do it again

What size tires are on the truck? If the UCA (upper control arm) is touching the bumpstop, the front end is raised too high, the truck will ride like crap due to having no downward suspension travel. If the truck does not need to be raised that high and it has stock sized tires I would adjust the torsion bars to proper spec on each side. Re-indexing is most used to get more height for when the rear anchor has no more room to move upward in the cross member, I wouldn't refer to the amount of thread sticking out of the top of the rear cross member as to determining height, simply because if the rear anchors were not installed in the same exact place, left to right, the amount of thread sticking out the top would be different but the truck could still be at the right height. Better to measure as the FSM shows on the page I suggested.