ahardb0dy

you could position the breaker bar so it it is wedged against the ground or frame than crank the engine for a short moment.

I just measured from the bottom of the pocket under the radio to the rear of the console and it was 34"

I do most of my own work on the truck, but for any big jobs I take it to my buddy, he has a lift so it's easier for him to do it and he takes care of me price wise, for example, when I bought a Brand new 5 speed tranny for my 90 sentra to replace the stock 4 speed, he swapped the tranny and replaced the clutch cable for me for $80

It's not an LED in the switch it's a regular bulb, they do burn out and are easy to replace, Radio Shack has the bulb. To test the adjustable shocks, Instead of just pressing the switch one time fast, press and hold the switch for a few seconds, try the comfort setting first, make sure you have the key on when you try this, Standing outside the truck, either side, press against the roof of the truck and try to rock the truck from side to side, notice how easy the truck rocks. Now press and hold for a few seconds the adjustable shock switch to the other position , may say Sport , repeat the rocking the truck test, if the truck seems harder to move than the shocks are working. Another way is to open the rear hatch and press down on the floor, do it in both shock modes, you should easily feel a difference on how much the truck will go up and down, if the shocks are working. As for ride quality, the pathfinder does ride good, but you have to realize, the older Pathfinders (WD21's) are trucks built on a frame and are not really designed to have a "Cadillac" ride, they can and will ride good, based on how well the truck is maintained, tire type and condition, etc,

it may be offset so if a truck is a 4x4 there is room for the transfer case shifter

it looks to be centered.

I had a pocket under the radio, guess it was for an optional CD player, I installed gauges in it now, Have a regular rubber shifter boot, than a few inches of carpet behind the boot, than a console with a square pocket and the storage compartment: pics when I first bought the truck:

I have a bunch of old Frontier brochures, going to pull them out and take a look, thanks

Is that console one piece all the way to the part around the shifter? What is the round part just behind the shifter? another cup holder? is that stock? Thanks for taking the time to get the measurements for me too ! I'll have to measure mine tomorrow, may be going to another junkyard on Tuesday that I think has the newer pathfinder and a few Frontiers.

I'm looking to swap the console so I can have the cup holders and the larger, taller storage compartment/arm rest is nice too. Being I have a 2wd Hardbody I don't have to mess with the E-brake as it is below the dash and I have a manual trans so no problems with the transfer case shifter, just have to find a console from a 2wd Pathfinder, which isn't hard down here as 90% of the PF's I see in the junk yards are 2wd's.

I'm just curious if the newer R50 console is longer than what I have in my Hardbody, every time I try to picture the newer console in my truck it seems like there isn't enough space between where the shifter is and the storage box area. I'm going to swap the newer console into my 93 Hardbody when I can find one from a 2wd manual trans PF

here is a 96 console with the switches in front I found online:

Could someone measure the length of the center console for me please? Front to rear. Anyone know what year they changed the switch locations in the console? I've seen the switches in front of the shifter and also behind the shifter near the little ash tray. Thanks

what stick? the transfer case shifter? Shouldn't be a problem as the junkyards down here seem to have every 2wd pathfinder ever made, I see more 2wd R50's than 4x4's. Not the best pic, got it from a for sale ad I found online, shows the 2wd manual trans console:

welcome, I can re-key locks to match your key also, if ever needed.

Wonder if the newer pathfinder console would fit easier in my 2wd hardbody , since the E-brake is under the dash no worries about moving it over, Guess would need a 2wd pathfinder console.

glove box and the metal plate behind it will give access

I personally do not like Cooper, and General, unless they changed them lately ( The General's) used to really suck, I used to always run BFG, first the AT's in 35's on my former hardbody, than every tire after that were 33" MT's, with one exception when I moved to Florida I had a set of Bridgestone MT's, they were very close in tread to the BFG MT's. My buddy has BFG AT's on his Toyota and when I moved from NY to Florida he had about 70K miles on his and they still looked like new.

Thursday early morning supposed to be in the 30's down here, was warm today 83

swap out the stock heavy Lego wheels for a lighter wheel and you may notice a improvement in MPG.

the only adjustable shock I know about, aftermarket would be the Rancho 9000 shocks, they have a knob on each shock that you can adjust into one of 9 different settings. Not something that can be done while moving. They used to sell a kit where you removed the knobs on each shock than a fitting would attach and each shock would have it's own air line that connected to an in cab controller, so you could adjust each shock ( or front and rear) from inside the cab. Do not know if they still sell that kit. You could replace the adjustable shocks with OEM adjustable shocks if they are still available, but I'm sure that would be expensive. Just looked up the fronts on online Nissan Dealer $175 each !) If your shocks still work, the adjustable part, you may just want to keep them and replace the bushings. OR grab a set of used adjustable shocks from a newer pathfinder (95) at least they won't be AS old as yours from 88.

yup

have you replaced the fuel filter?

yes the push to remove the key can be removed, you will have to take the whole lock cylinder apart to do so. here are some pics if you decide to do it: first after removing the upper and lower steering column covers you will need to remove the 2 security bolts that hold the ignition lock to the column, I use a drill to drill a hole in the center of the bolt head than use an EZ out to remove the bolt, the security bolts snap the head off when they are tightened leaving a smooth flat surface. once the lock assembly is removed you should have something like this, this is out of my former 90 sentra but the locks are very similar: There are 2 brass pins that hold the lock cylinder together, you would need to drill a small hole next to each pin, than use a scribe or similar tool to remove the brass pins, see pic below: pins removed, there is one in front one in the rear: after removing the 2 pins the lock cylinder assembly can be pulled out, be careful of the spring and lever for the key release and pay attention to how it comes apart so it can be put back together properly, pic below: lock cylinder removed: I can't recall if both rods/levers need to come out to eliminate the press to remove the key, I would remove the one with the button first and try the key, if it comes out than you are done and can re-assemble the lock, if the key doesn't come out than remove the other rod/lever also, than try to remove the key, pic of both levers/rods: when reassembling, push the lock cylinder back into the lock assembly, and reinsert the 2 brass pins, tap in with a small hammer, on this ignition lock the wires going to the black part are for the key in chime: all the components laid out:

The aftermarket adapters I have used in the past have always had the "tits" to cancel the turn signal, I have use wheels from Lecarra and MOMO, still have both hubs, don't see why the grant adapter wouldn't have them. here is the Momo adapter: