ahardb0dy

Are there any known problems with the distributors on the 3.3 engines? My former boss was telling me today, in his Mercury Villager he had to have the distributor replaced, it was, and than the engine was acting up or running crappy again not too long after. The guy he went to installed a used OEM distributor until he could get a new one and my boss said the van ran good with the used OEM distributor. Than when the guy swapped it out for the new one my boss said not too long after, the distributor failed, the mechanic said it was defective. So anyone hear anything about any distributor problems on the 3.3? I don't know exactly what the problem is/was that required the distributor to be replaced. Thanks

OEM surplus just received some more inventory from another dealer, they created a new site just for these items, find it here: http://www.oem-surplus.com/plus/index.htm

no, the problem on some is the trans cooler in the radiator clogs up.

master window switch on drivers door is a common problem, could also be the door lock timer, search for it, plenty of info on it on the forum.

My former black 94 is now in Minn., but that isn't it.

fuel temp sensor is in the tank

My truck has those outside splined lugs and locks on it, came with the truck, things are rusted to hell, will be putting nice chrome lugs on with no locks. Locks only slow a thief down, some times that is enough, as they always say, if someone wants something bad enough they will get it. Even with the wheel lock remoal kit you still have to use a hammer to put the removal socket on so not like it's quiet if someone is trying to steal your wheels. Just watched a video where some one used a emergency wheel lock removal tool purchased from the auto parts store, thing took the guy like 10 minutes to remove the lock and another 5 to get the lock out of the tool ! Try the dealer, if no help, call around to some tire stores, a good tire store should have the removal set. The removal set uses a socket that is tapered inside, so when you hammer it on the lock it grabs.

Most shops have the wheel lock removal kits, ( I have one here but your not close), You can try to hit a socket on the lock and try to take the lock off, an impact gun works best but you can probably use a ratchet. If the locks are McGuard and you have the lock number you can buy a new key. I would call around to the tire shops and ask if anyone has the removal kit.

Did you replace the plugs too or just the wires and cap? Not sure on the miss.

Shouldn't take that long to install a hose, hardest part will be seeing where the hose goes on the bottom.

and a external trans cooler

those are relays on the board. Good repair ! Suprised it didn't blow a fuse being constantly engaged like that.

want to do it on my hardbody as soon as I find a console to use, e-brake under the dash so it will be easier

My former 87 hardbody 4x4 I had the E-brake under the dash as does my current 93 Hardbody 2wd, so you can move the e-brake with the right parts.

looks good, my cb would never fit in there

If the relay clicks when you flip the switch you know power is going to the relay, if no power at the wires at the lights there could be a break in the wire coming out of the relay or possibly you didn't have a good ground for your test light ( if you were using a test light to check for power). Check the output at the relay first, if power coming out there is a problem with the wire between the relay and the lights. If no power coming out the relay may be bad.

Talking about winches, I saw a Toyota pickup couple weeks ago at Home dept, it had one of those 1500lb winches bolted directly to the stock Toyota bumper !, Wonder how long that will stay on if used !!

Rotated your pics for you:

I've had 2 JDM engines so far and both ran and looked like new, last one was in my former 94, it was spotless under the valve cover, don't know how often the oil was changed but look at the pics below, it was clean:

download the Electrical section of the FSM here: http://www.nicoclub.com/FSM/Pathfinder/1994_Pathfinder/el.pdf page 57 shows the wiring schematic with color codes for each door wire

what wire? at the door? at the radio?

Lucky, the dealers down here charge list and won't drop a penny under it !

I looked up this part the other day and it was $52.50 from an online Nissan Dealer, list is $72.64 different part numbers depending on the year up to 1/92 is 73872-01G10 92 and up including some cars and other trucks is 73872-01M05- and is the same price both list and cost. Have not seen Rob on here lately but you can still call him at his dealer to order. I've ordered a few parts from Rob and everything was always perfect, even got a free Nissan screwdriver with one of my orders !

Only problem I had when I replaced the filter in the trans in my former 94 was the metal tube inside of the pan. Had to reach in and unbolt it and remove it before the front of the pan would clear to remove.

after having the automatic trans rebuilt 3 times in my 87 hardbody I used to have, each time at around $2K, I won't do an automatic any more. I would rather have to replace the clutch than have the automatic trans rebuilt.