ahardb0dy

glove box and the metal plate behind it will give access

I personally do not like Cooper, and General, unless they changed them lately ( The General's) used to really suck, I used to always run BFG, first the AT's in 35's on my former hardbody, than every tire after that were 33" MT's, with one exception when I moved to Florida I had a set of Bridgestone MT's, they were very close in tread to the BFG MT's. My buddy has BFG AT's on his Toyota and when I moved from NY to Florida he had about 70K miles on his and they still looked like new.

Thursday early morning supposed to be in the 30's down here, was warm today 83

My dad has hot water in his garage and would always wash the car or truck inside the garage to get the salt off. lows here: 66 65 57 54 37 (BRRRRR) !!!

I believe I treated that spot with a rust preventative spray. When I used the spray on a spot on my former 87 HB, it never spread any further. Poor truck I can hear it crying due to the cold from down here !! LOL Glad everything is going good for you with the truck, other than the few things you have told me about. How do those tires do in the snow? Have you had snow already?

swap out the stock heavy Lego wheels for a lighter wheel and you may notice a improvement in MPG.

the only adjustable shock I know about, aftermarket would be the Rancho 9000 shocks, they have a knob on each shock that you can adjust into one of 9 different settings. Not something that can be done while moving. They used to sell a kit where you removed the knobs on each shock than a fitting would attach and each shock would have it's own air line that connected to an in cab controller, so you could adjust each shock ( or front and rear) from inside the cab. Do not know if they still sell that kit. You could replace the adjustable shocks with OEM adjustable shocks if they are still available, but I'm sure that would be expensive. Just looked up the fronts on online Nissan Dealer $175 each !) If your shocks still work, the adjustable part, you may just want to keep them and replace the bushings. OR grab a set of used adjustable shocks from a newer pathfinder (95) at least they won't be AS old as yours from 88.

yup

A friend is looking for OEM grille guard mounting brackets, the lower ones, found a pathfinder at LKQ Tampa that looks like it has the grille guard, was wondering if anyone is close to that LKQ that may be able to pull the brackets for me? http://lkq180.com/fullscreen.php?pic_num=2014-12-05-c4p-001.jpg another one in Clearwater at LKQ: http://lkq190.com/fullscreen.php?pic_num=2014-12-31-c4p-012.jpg

have you replaced the fuel filter?

yes the push to remove the key can be removed, you will have to take the whole lock cylinder apart to do so. here are some pics if you decide to do it: first after removing the upper and lower steering column covers you will need to remove the 2 security bolts that hold the ignition lock to the column, I use a drill to drill a hole in the center of the bolt head than use an EZ out to remove the bolt, the security bolts snap the head off when they are tightened leaving a smooth flat surface. once the lock assembly is removed you should have something like this, this is out of my former 90 sentra but the locks are very similar: There are 2 brass pins that hold the lock cylinder together, you would need to drill a small hole next to each pin, than use a scribe or similar tool to remove the brass pins, see pic below: pins removed, there is one in front one in the rear: after removing the 2 pins the lock cylinder assembly can be pulled out, be careful of the spring and lever for the key release and pay attention to how it comes apart so it can be put back together properly, pic below: lock cylinder removed: I can't recall if both rods/levers need to come out to eliminate the press to remove the key, I would remove the one with the button first and try the key, if it comes out than you are done and can re-assemble the lock, if the key doesn't come out than remove the other rod/lever also, than try to remove the key, pic of both levers/rods: when reassembling, push the lock cylinder back into the lock assembly, and reinsert the 2 brass pins, tap in with a small hammer, on this ignition lock the wires going to the black part are for the key in chime: all the components laid out:

The aftermarket adapters I have used in the past have always had the "tits" to cancel the turn signal, I have use wheels from Lecarra and MOMO, still have both hubs, don't see why the grant adapter wouldn't have them. here is the Momo adapter:

What do you mean turn signal reset? Are you referring to when you turn the wheel back after making a turn and the signal light goes out? If you swap the steering wheel for another Nissan wheel, as long as the rear matches the original one it should work normal. IF you have a problem with the turn signals turning off it may not be the steering wheel. The 2 "tits" that cancel the turn signal are part of the rear cover of the steering wheel, they are not part of anything that bolts to the steering wheel, see my pic below, this is a 94ish steering wheel (stock): with the horn/cruise ring installed:

Good to hear, were the ball joints bad? I'm sure the rear window defroster is needed more up where you are, LOL, Down here if it's a choice of removing the tint the hard long way and saving the defroster lines or removing the tint quick and easily and losing the defroster, guess which choice wins ! LOL

Is she liking the cold??

Happy New Year all you Pathfinder owners ! LOL

This is my buddies truck at work ( was), he was driving down a 2 lane road and a guy in a Hyundai elantra swerved into his lane, my buddy slowed and started to pull over onto the shoulder, no pics of the car, trooper described it as a red pile of metal and a white pile of metal. The driver of the car was hurt pretty bad I heard but as far as I know he survived, my buddy has a hairline fracture in his neck and his knees are pretty sore. Supposedly the Elantra driver had a seizure they said. Accident took place a few weeks ago, just had a chance to take some pics today: sheared the center pin off that goes through the leaf spring and pushed the whole thing back: little wheel damage ! front axle yoke ( or what ever you call it) sheared off: door gap is a little larger than normal ! utility bed damage: Didn't notice this until my partner pointed it out to me today, the rear axle got pushed back also:

that's right, thought so but wasn't sure so didn't want to give bad info, I was thinking of the one for the tire carrier.

My former 87 hardbody had the automatic hubs, I had that truck from day one for 14 years, beat the hell out of it and went 4 wheeling multiple times per week, never had any issues with the automatic hubs.

check on here, it's another Nissan forum that has gotten together with NPORA in the past on group buys and stuff, http://infamousnissan.com/forum/index.php join and contact David29 he sells Nissan parts (used) and usually has a lot of parts available. I'm a member there also, same user name dimmer switch on E-bay $18.90 http://www.ebay.com/itm/93-Nissan-Pathfinder-dash-light-dimmer-switch-rheostat-knob-/181602563279?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item2a485b34cf&vxp=mtr

not that I know of, try another one if you can, any other pathfinder owners new you?

Door lock timer could still be bad

looks good !

could be a bad door switch, any problems with the dome light working or coming on randomly? Or any problems or lights showing the rear cargo door is open? Rear cargo door switch is a known issue.

What did you use to clean the MAF sensor? Did the engine idle like it is now before you cleaned the TB and MAF? Not supposed to use carb cleaner on the MAF ( not saying you did just saying)