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ahardb0dy

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Everything posted by ahardb0dy

  1. make sure the fuel lines at the pump are not on backwards, it's possible the new pump is just bad. you checked for fuel at the pump so it wouldn't be a filter issue. The fuel pump will run when the key is first turned to on to prime
  2. Today, figured out the wiring for the power mirror swap I will be doing, hooked the mirrors and switch up to my power supply and tested everything, all good to go, just need to pick up some 3 conductor wire.
  3. the green actually changed in 93, from Nissan FAST: paint code FL1 - Green from July 92 to July 93 paint code FL1 - Greenish blue from July 93 also had paint code DJ2 - Dark green Your fender looks good !
  4. This link is for the pathfinder idler arm, rockauto shows a different part number between the 2 and 4 wd for the hardbody, but only shows this one for the pathfinder, both the 2 and 4 wheel drive one's look the same http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=493175&cc=1211993
  5. I like Moog but if you can't use it, and I know why, my next choice is Beck Arnley
  6. You can mount any size tire on any size rim that you can get the tire to go onto, doesn't mean it's the recommended size wheel, when I said you 7's are too narrow, I'm referring to the 7" width as not being a recommended width for a 12.50' wide tire. Most tire manufacturers that sell a 33/12.50/15 tire specify 8-11" wheels. Most of the time and depending on the tire's particular tread design, putting a tire that is too wide for a particular wheel will pull the sidewall's in to much and will effect how the tire wears. I'm sure when a tire manufacturer recommends a wheel width range for their tires it is to make sure the tire performs optimally.
  7. if there is a code the ECU will store it, so any that may have came up recently will be stored.
  8. 33/12.50's are fine on 8's, 7's are too narrow. Yes they fit but it pulls the sidewalls in too far
  9. used to last me about a week if it didn't rain, On surfaces that are smooth (like the black mirrors) plastic polish works real good, makes it look like Armorall but no greasy residue and lasts longer. Not good on non smooth surfaces, it still works, but is harder to get all the polish out of the little pits ( I did the top of my bed liner once and had to use a toothbrush to get all the polish off, it looked real god though !)
  10. Couple coats of Armor all and they look like this:
  11. Don't see any welds, that's why I commented, welding the nuts to the bracket would work.
  12. Should have used either lock washers or Nylock nuts on the inside to prevent the nuts from loosening, good job otherwise.
  13. The Mobil one grease is fine, it's what I used when I repacked the bearing on my hardbody, As to tightening the wheel bearing nut, I follow what the FSM says except for measuring the runout and checking the force with the scale, never had any problems, also if you don't have the tool for the nut you can use a Phillips screwdriver in one of the holes, or use 2 with another screw driver between the two for leverage:
  14. here you go: http://infamousnissan.com/forum/showthread.php?t=12191
  15. I meant instead of the receiver sticking out from the face of the bumper.
  16. you could but it would probably be cheaper to buy a new one
  17. shouldn't need special studs or lugs, stainless or anything else, people take their lugs off everyday and don't have the problems you are having, don't know why you are having the problems you are. I never use anything on my studs, I don't torque them with a torque wrench, I thread them on by hand than tighten in the star pattern than go around one more time to make sure they are tight, never had to beat the tire with a rubber mallet and never had any problems removing them. Never had a wheel come loose either. Had a stud break one time when Discount tire was doing something on my former dakota, they broke it removing it.
  18. weird, I've had lugs start to come off than all of a sudden stop or start to turn hard, than when removed they were stripped to hell, this was when I installed tires way back. Never had a problem with my own, never use torque wrench when tightening them. If I do use the torque wrench I always go a little more than the minimum, seems like when ever Discount tire puts them on when I go to remove them for what ever reason, to me they seem too loose, even though they are torqued to spec. I don't kill them when I put them on though. I guess you could use some antiseize on the studs, just read where people have been doing it for years with no problems Only way I could see them getting rusted on is if you had water getting inside some how
  19. Shouldn't have to use anything on the studs, normally the only way the lug would not unscrew is if the thread was messed up or the lug was cross threaded. Since your studs and lugs were both new that shouldn't be a problem.
  20. you are using the right thread lug nuts right? 12 mm x 1.25 ? by the way the lug nut torque is 87 - 108
  21. why not make the hole for the hitch flush with the surface, since you are making the bumper anyway.
  22. plug wires "looking good, almost new" means crap, they are new or you don't know how old they are, Check codes, replace the fuel filter if you don't know when it was done last, the truck is 20 years old, replace ALL the vacuum lines, they don't last forever, they may look good but it's the one small slit or crack you can't see that messes it up, just replace one at a time, you did the plugs? hopefully you used regular NGK plugs, I would suggest OEM or NGK wires. O2 sensor, clean the throttle body, make sure the edge of the TB where the butterfly makes contact is clean, run some fuel injector cleaner in the gas.
  23. tire size specs: 265/70/15 (BF Goodrich Rugged Trail) 29.7 OD 10.7 section width 8.2 tread width on a 8" wide wheel 265/75/15 (BF Goodrich Long Trail) 30.7 OD 10.5 section width 8.1 tread width on a 7.5" wide wheel 31/10.50/15 (BF Goodrich Rugged Trail) 30.5 OD 10.6 section width 8.1 tread width on a 8.5" wide wheel Of course wheel width changes the section width From tire rack's site : "The industry rule of thumb is that for every 1/2" change in rim width, the tire's section width will correspondingly change by approximately 2/10"."
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