ahardb0dy

The FSM can be downloaded for free from here: http://www.nicoclub.com/FSM/Pathfinder/1995_Pathfinder/ The shocks have nothing to do with ride height, leaking or not they just provide dampening . Check the low side and look to see how much space is between the bottom of the upper control arm and the rubber bump stop, compare the space to the opposite side. If on the corner that is low the space between the bump stop and Upper control arm is less than the opposite side you can try to raise the low side by tightening the torsion bar adjusting bolt. You don't have to replace the torsion bar, you can adjust the one side, or if it keeps sagging you may want to replace both, always replace torsion bars in pairs, they only sell them in pairs anyway. I would not recommend buying used torsion bars, if you do, make sure you mark them left and right front and back, torsion bars are a form of a spring, they take a memory after years of use and it is not good to reverse a bar. There is a way to measure the ride height in the FSM, if the rubber bump stops are missing, see page 41 in the FA section, middle of the page where it says "except 2wd trucks" in the diagram When the starter is activated by turning the key the bendix should get pushed out, (there is a large spring type part in there that pushes it out), when the bendix gets pushed out it is supposed to engage the teeth on the flywheel, it's possible ( and likely) the starter is original, I would not bother with replacing just the solenoid, replace the whole starter and save yourself the headache of having to take it back out again to replace the starter motor. Here is a pic of the spring on the solenoid: I highly recommend either a Nissan OEM starter or a NEW aftermarket one, reman starters SUCK unless you like replacing it every week or month. I unbolt the starter from the bottom, not hard to do with a long extention, once un-bolted and with the battery disconnected, and oil filter removed, you can tilt the starter to disconnect the wires. I know it's a pain to remove , once I removed my starter in my former 94 PF from the top, once I went out the front after removing the idler arm.

my former 94 had 2 keys when I got it than I re-keyed all the locks to match the ignition and re-keyed my former sentra locks to also match the PF ignition

the 4 door pathfinder has the LED's and the knob to switch modes at the rear of the ECU, no idea why on the hardbody they put the knob and LED's facing the center of the truck..

In the 4 door pathfinders at least you don't need to remove the seat to access the ECU, sliding it fully forward gives enough access to the ECU, not sure on the 2 door pf's on how much access there is. Looking forward to doing this mod in my 93 HB when i get it back from my mechanic.

Thanks, for the replies. Not looking to use it or any treatment, just wanted to know if it could change the color of the oil as the P.O. used it a lot in my truck.

Well than you shouldn't have replied ! If you have nothing to add to my question be silent !!

Anyone that has used seafoam does it do anything to the oil? change the color or anything?

So today my mech. buddy started working on the truck, last week he hooked the radiator back up and filled the cooling system and performed a pressure test after letting the truck warm up , he ran it about an hour, never over heated, temp was normal, he said it never lost pressure so he determined the head and head gasket were ok. I was thinking the oil had to be coming from the timing chain wearing through the front cover. He drained the oil and it did look milky, removed the oil pan and got about another quart of oil out of it. He said the oil did not drain out completely through the drain plug because the broken pieces of the timing chain guide was blocking the hole. Removed the valve cover and said the oil under the cam looked good, no signs of water mixed with it. Remove the front cover, oil was clean at the crank area also. Removed the water pump and other than being all rusty,. probably from PO using straight water it was just water, no signs of oil There was a wear mark on the inside of the front cover but it had not worn all the way through. No idea where the oil and water mixed, starting to think someone put water in the oil, don't know. He said the truck started fine and he drove it into his shop, he said it has a slight tick but it may go away. Tomorrow he will start cleaning everything and said maybe Sunday he will have it back together and running. The brake booster I bought looks identical to the one that is in the truck, did not see the inside of the stock one yet to compare but the under hood parts look the same. He's going to replace the complete timing set, water pump, thermostat, oil pan and valve cover gaskets, PVC valve and possibly the oil pump. Weird there is no sign of where oil mixed with the water, when the water pump was removed it was pure water that came out. Have to wait a few more days and should see how it runs, he also said the truck looked clean ( he had it on his lift and was the first time either of us had seen under it, he said it's definitely a Florid a truck and the PO had spent a lot on all the new parts.

I don't think ST means anything for a pathfinder, no idea why the Vin number comes up like that, some older Nissan pickups I know were labeled ST

First thing to check is with the truck running and the AC turned on see if the clutch on the AC compressor is turning, if not you may be low on freon, to check this without gauges find the low pressure (dual pressure switch) usually near the accumulator/drier, unplug the connector, should be 2 wires (2 terminals) jump the 2 terminals with a paper clip or piece of wire, if the clutch engages you most likely are low on freon. Also check any of the AC hoses for oily residue on them near the crimp on fittings, because the AC system uses freon and oil, usually a leak is easy to spot as the oil collects dirt , also check any metal AC lines, my sentra the clutch cable was rubbing on a metal AC line and wore a hole into it one time. The bulb being out in the switch may just be the bulb and may not indicate the AC system is out, as far as I know the lamp not coming on does not indicate the AC is not working, it just lets you know the switch is on. Good luck

i just did a write up on removing the alarm in the general section, look at that if you want to remove it, if you want to keep it, you may need a new fob programmed as was said.

If it's a factory alarm do you want to remove it completely or just disable the alarm? To remove, the harness they used is pretty cool design, most of the connections are like "tee's", basically you unplug a connector, plug each end you just unplugged into the alarm plug, there are only I think 2 single wire connections, one goes to the wire that runs to the front door switch, one connects under the steering column cover. the rest plug in, So basically to remove the alarm, pull the drivers seat, unplug the alarm module, remove the module, remove the mounting bracket, trace the harness back up under the lower dash, un plug any connections going to the alarm "tee's", plug the male and female plugs back together, remove the wire from under the steering column cover, remove the wire going to the dr. door switch, and you should be good. To disable, unplug the alarm module, locate the ignition kill wire under the steering column cover cut the red wire going to the alarm harness and re connect the 2 halves. this was my alarm out of the 94 I had and the harness, is this the box you unplugged? alarm module in place (red button on top in hole) see also here for the schematic and instructions: http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/topic/19755-fix-your-keyless-entry/?hl=keyless%20entry&fromsearch=1

not sure if they all do it or not but the headrests (fronts) that were in my 94 have a ratchet feature to change the angle.

I'm 48 and I rock out with my two 12's LOL

was going to say if one hose feels hot and the other doesn't than the thermostat isn't opening, if your heat goes hot to cold sometimes than you have air in the system and need to open the air relief screw to bleed it out.

like that one !!

The way I look at it, if you going to do a BL might as well do the 3". Now if someone asks what's involved in doing the Trailmaster 4" suspension ( if you could find one !) I have the instructions for that.

Glad you figured it out.

There is a bunch of stuff behind the rear side panels, I'm sure you could move it out of the way, there is also a brace right in the middle, I'm sure you could have something built that wouldn't stick out to far past the fenderwell, you could even have part of the box protrude into the cavity behind the panel, as I mentioned earlier to match the volume needed by the sub. Here is a pic of the drivers side from my former 94 PF:

I think if you want to maximize floor space you will have to mount the subs to the side panels behind and over the wheel wells, you may need to stretch the box to an irregular shape to keep the internal volume appropriate for the sub you are using, Not really any room under the seats. or move some stuff around inside the rear side cargo area's and do something like this, this box for reference not saying to get this one or this brand: http://www.crutchfield.com/p_236FEX10TN/MTX-ThunderForms.html?tp=113 kind of like this, this is a newer pathfinder but same idea:

Welcome, when my cruise wasn't working in the 94 I had it was the vacuum hose to the actuator, than the steering wheel contacts started acting up but i fixed that

I had the Warn hubs on my old 94 pathfinder, never took it 4 wheeling but I bought them from a junkyard, when I took them apart I needed a few parts, I e-mailed Warn and told them what I needed and that I bought them from a junkyard, they didn't care that i bought them used, the guy replied asking what I needed, I told him and they sent the parts out for free !! Not many companies will stand behind their products like that, especially when it's not even the original purchaser. Customer service like that will make me buy Warn again. I Don't know if Milemarker would do the same.

Was going to say try the cruise with the jumper wire in place of the switch you think is bad and see if it works

I used semi mud flaps also on my 87 hardbody but I installed the bolts from the inside of the inner fenders sticking out, one washer and nut on the bolt to hold the bolt tight, than the rubber semi flap than a flat washer and another nut, this way if you want to remove the rubber for whatever reason, the bolts stay in place. For the front bumper brackets I just doubled them up on each side, still flimsy but better than using one per side

There is a small vacuum pump next to the that diaphragm, if the cruise is not being told to turn on the pump will not produce vacuum and you will not feel it on the hose, it shouldn't have vacuum on that hose unless all the conditions are met for the cruise to work, ex. driving above 40 mph, see this thread for more info on the cruise not working: http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/topic/38266-94-se-4x4-pathfinder-cruise-control-help/