ahardb0dy

15 x 7, as the e-bay listing says 97-99 Montero Sport see also here : http://www.originalwheels.com/mitsubishi-wheels/monterosport1999rims.php

From what I see in the 90 FSM, it looks like there is a voltage regulator on the rear of the cluster, the one I removed from my 93 HB does not have a voltage regulator, and if I look in the 94 FSM it is the round cluster and different, that is why I'm trying to see if anyone might have a 93 FSM. And no the traces are not marked where I can see what screw is for the fuel gauge.

thanks, this is on a hardbody pickup. I have the gauge cluster out right now I want to do the diagnostic to check the fuel gauge, I need to check from one of the pins in the cluster harness to the fuel screw on the rear of the cluster, only I need to know what pin and what screw. Thanks

Anyone have a 93 FSM for truck/pathfinder, need to get some info as to testing the fuel gauge. I have a 90 FSM and the gauge cluster is different and a 94 FSM and gauge cluster is also different. Thanks

Welcome to NPORA !!!

Never mind, found out one of the bolts was the correct one, one the insert the bolt screws into was gone so just a hole in the plastic, the third hole had a broken bolt in it. I installed a nut sert in the empty hole for a 1/4 - 20 bolt, the one that had the broken bolt in it I drilled it out until the insert pushed out and installed a second nut sert in that hole than re-installed the blower motor with 3 bolts, all good now.

Today, removed the oil filter, added a quart of engine flush and 3 quarts of cheap oil and a cheap (Fram) filter, let it run for about 5 minutes per the flush instructions, cooled the block with the garden hose running into the lower rad hose, water was coming out hot from the other rad hose than got cooler. Engine started right up on it's own and ran fine just noisy, sounds like towards the rear of the head, possibly the oil pump is clogged or something, no idea. Shut the engine off, drained the oil/water, still looked like a milk shake, removed the filter, installed another fram filter and filled with new cheap oil, Quit for the night.

I didn't really do anything except, add fuel to the TB and than it started after a few tries, the fuel pump does prime when you turn the key on, haven't checked it today yet

If you make this pic larger you can see where someone put a piece of wire in between the positive battery terminal and the connector, is a fusible link supposed to be there?

think I have to remove the seat to get to the ECU to see the LED's and the switch, I removed the plastic cover, nothing on the rear of it like the PF, nothing in the front, wires come in to the ECU on the pass. side. No idea if it is supposed to be mounted that way, will have to pull the seat and take a look. I disconnected the battery a few times today so I doubt their will be any codes stored right now. Had the engine running today a few times !!!

I think the bump stops are there to protect the UCA's from slamming into the frame, no bump stop = metal to metal, but if it works for you that's good.

Anyone know what size the 3 bolts are that hold the blower motor into the housing? Thanks

haven't checked the ECU yet, maybe today

Nothing wrong with the AC lift, The first lift "kit's for these trucks consisted only of ball joint spacers, than Jim Connor Racing came out with the modified UCA's which consisted of a stock arm with a welded in ball joint spacer and the bottom of the arm's were boxed in for support, ( I had these on my 87 Hardbody) later JCR came out with the tubular arms that supposedly had the ball joint mounting area modified so when the torsion bars were cranked to provide lift the ball joint would remain at a decent angle. When JCR closed their shop, all the parts and designs were sold to 4x4 parts and they continue to make the same tubular UCA's. It's funny some products on the 4X4 parts site still use the same pics that JCR originally took. You can crank the bars as far as you want, but the problem always will be, the higher you go equals the less space between the UCA and the bump stop, once the UCA contacts the bump stop ( and I have seen trucks set up this way), you have zero downward travel, so as I said if your driving along on a rough road, and the tire drops into a hole, with no downward travel you feel it.

think he was asking about your UCA bump stops

Want to figure out if the timing is off with out taking the front cover off. Can I put the number one piston at TDC and look to see if the rotor is pointing to the number one position on the distributor cap?

I think the timing is off, possibly the chain jumped a tooth or two. Tonight I had my wife crank it and I looked in the oil fill hole and can see the lifters moving so I know the timing chain is intact at least, than I pulled one of the plug wires off and using an old plug checked for spark, which it had, and I can smell gas like it's getting flooded. May do more tomorrow, possibly drain the sludge out.

The engine cranks just fine, just won't start. No idea if it had water or antifreeze in it. Have to check the dip stick to see how high the level is, when the guy pulled it to show me it was up about 2" on the stick, aprox.

Lot of info here: http://nissannut.com/maintenance/vg33e_upgrade/

They are 18's, previous owner says it rides really good. I have no idea yet as it is not running yet.

I'm limited to what I can do right now because of the knee, not supposed to be putting any weight on it at all. I use the crutches when I have to work more than a few steps. I want to do the few things I said to try to see if I can figure out why there is water in the oil, and to see if it will start, anything major he can do it. He doesn't charge by the hour.

I can't get the truck to my mech, until June so I am curious as to why it won't start, plus I want to clean the engine and parts I remove. Anything I can do to make it easier for him will get it done quicker.

I think this weekend if my knee cooperates I plan on removing the air filter housing, cleaning it, covering the TB opening and any open hoses, remove the fan shroud and fan, and than de-greasing the outside of the engine, it's pretty dirty. After pulling the valve cover to check the chain ( make sure it's still intact) and checking how the head looks. Also want to check for spark and fuel. If I can't tell anything by doing that, than possibly I'll pull the front cover. May drain the oil/water also.

I was just going from what I read, I did read some where that the guides used to be all plastic, and the updated guides are now metal backed, how true that first part is I don't know.

The 95 supplement contains all the information except for the TR (transfer case) and LC ( engine lubrication and cooling systems), the EL section contains all the wiring diagrams and the Fold out contains the full wiring schematic. For the TR or LC sections you would refer to the 94 FSM.