ahardb0dy

Well my neighbor solved his charging problem he no longer needs to plug the truck in every night ! He finally did what I suggested and eliminated the battery isolator, and the battery started getting 14.5 volts.

They look pretty old, time for new shocks I thinks

Is the stud marked in red in the pic below ( inside the fuse box under the hood, 2000 Xterra ) a positive or a ground?

So My neighbor checked al the fuses I told him too and they were all good, he says the alt test good on the auto parts store's machine but still no output when in the truck, I'm thinking there is a problem with the wire that tells the internal regulator to turn the alternator on, going to look up the wiring schematic, I told him a little while ago if I can figure out what wire it is we ( or he) can run a wire from the alt plug directly to the battery and that should tell the alt to turn on, if it does and starts putting out voltage than I guess there is a problem some where between the alt plug and where ever that one wire is reading battery voltage. Sound right? Thanks

I like it too, as for the bars in front of the lights, The Owner likes it that way, it's his design, everyone is different on what they like, Me, if I could weld, wouldn't have put the bars in front of the lights but that's me. Maybe if he can or would be willing to make others, an option to extend the top tube out further than 90 it down outside the heal lights, or as Nissanland asked about just eliminating the top bar,

None of the auto parts stores were showing any GL4 gear oil, other than in large containers. I already had the Amsoil in the trans I didn;t want to mix synthetic and normal oil as I know how thick the "Dino" gear oil normally is, the Amsoil gear oil looks like water when you shake the bottle, it's been working fine since I had the new 5 speed tranny put in. But than I was thinking if the seal doesn't hold and it leaks again, than I'm wasting $15 Qt gear oil. But as I said, I have looked under the car and at the tranny a few times through out the day and no signs of any leaks.

Now working on the headlight that I noticed the glass lens was not attached to the housing !!! Hope the stuff I bought works otherwise will be ordering a cheap e bay replacement

Well mistakingly removed the drain plug thinking it was the Fill plug !!! Plenty of gear oil in the tranny still ! (Well there was until I did what I just said), No one near by seems to carry gl4 gear oil in a size smaller than a gallon so I went to ace hardware to pick up the same amsoil I have in it now, they didn't have any, manager called another store, a napa store no one had it, Than he called a auto parts/ marine store who said they had The gear oil, and off I went. Further than I expected to have to drive, bought 2 quarts at $14.80 Each, Put half a quart in and about a quarter of another bottle I already had until the Oil started to come out the hole. Took it for a test drive, parked it in driveway I just got done cleaning, dried any water that was under the car, let it sit about am hour, nothing on the ground so far, hopefully it will hold.

Turns out the seal was not leaking, it cake out, the seal has a lip on it that an accordion rubber boot site over to prevent anything from getting on the shaft, I cleaned the area in the pic above and the seal and pressed it back in, than gave it a tap on each side with a flat punch and hammer. Have to go get some gear oil now to re-fill the trans, if it holds great, if not will have to order the seal and take it apart further, Thanks for the replies, @ Adam, the shaft only moves in and out and does less than a quarter turn, it does not rotate inside the seal, it is only the shaft the shifter connects too.

I am replacing a seal on my tranny today (in my car), and the FSM says to : Apply grease to seal lip of oil seal before installing, where exactly does the grease need to go? This seal is one that goes over the rod that the shift linkage attaches too. pic below where the seal goes:

Did you take the motor apart to clean it? The blower in my sentra was doing the same thing, It ook the motor apart, cleaned the copper windings and added some grease on the shaft, been fine ever since.

Here is all the info on those battery terminals: http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/topic/35772-military-style-battery-terminals/

10-4

brackets will be dealer or junkyard items only

thread is 5 years old

order the parts thru Rob on this site, he works in the parts dept at a dealer, he takes care of us members, ask him for what you need in this thread: http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/topic/18653-genuine-nissan-parts/page-49?do=findComment&comment=713631

BTW the top half of the brackets are the same, the bottoms are left and right

little rusty ! You can probably order the front and rear parts from Rob on here, or a junkyard, I would highly recommend spraying some good penetrating oil on those bolts for about a week ahead of the time you may attempt to remove them, with the amount of rust on there, I would be surprised if those bolts came out without breaking. I broke the rear part on my old 87 hardbody but it was from driving over a curb at speed, my buddy welded them back together for me. In later model years I noticed they changed the design slightly and fitted a gusset to the mount, right about where yours broke.

Good you figured it out, guess someone put the fuse in the wrong spot. Always best to start simple.

usually use the V power just wanted to try the G power's

Normal NGK's I have G power in my car right now uses Platinum center electrode

Per the wiring schematic, you should have power at number 1 coming from the fuse to the switch, test for power there first, 3 should be the ground, if there is power on terminal number 1, than move your ground wire on the test light to number 3 and re-check for power at number 1 to test the ground. First if you haven't already pull the mirror switch out and make sure the plug is all the way in, had a problem with my windows in my 94 and found the plug was not in all the way, after plugging it back in no more problem. Always check the simplest things first.

I cut the battery end of the plug off on my 94 I had as the metal that it connects too on the battery terminal broke, so I put the wires all into a large butt connector than ran a short piece of 6 gauge to the new terminal: this was the first replacement battery terminal: Than found these at Oreily, good quality and for Less than $4 each: ( the one on the right, replaced the Negative also)

Per the 99 FSM it's only showing one fuse for the mirrors. Make sure the Mirror left/right control is not in the middle

Adam, are you sure? The one's for the glass come with the mount on one end but the rear hatch supports just look like the support? Just looked on the Advance auto parts site.