ahardb0dy

Check the rubber bumper on the brake lever, should be two with cruise ( one for the brake lights the other for the cruise cancel), Make sure the vacuum line is connected to the pump under the hood, pass. side rear near the hood hinge. Does your horn work? Does your horn work no matter what position the steering wheel is in? If no to either question you may have a contact problem where the rings on the rear of the steering wheel contact the 3 pins on the steering column. here is a pic (kind of upside down) of where the rubber bumper's are on the brake lever:

Was thinking the same thing that those rims don't look like they are 12" wide, and you beat me to it on the steering stops being adjusted for the different size tires the truck came with.

Was thinking the same thing that those rims don't look like they are 12" wide, and you beat me to it on the steering stops being adjusted for the different size tires the truck came with.

see, if you read through the owners manual you would have known that ! LOL

That style mount should work

You shouldn't use two antenna's to begin with, the truck is no where near wide enough, the antenna's should be about 8-9 feet apart. Co-phased antenna's are usually designed for semi truck applications, when two antenna's are mounted side by side like on the mirrors of a semi. the reception/transmit pattern becomes more directional towards the front and rear, because truckers are concerned with what's happening in front and behind them, so this works out perfect, an antenna mounted in the rear left, makes the CB more directional towards the front right, always the opposite from where the antenna is installed. For best overall reception/transmit pattern an antenna installed in the center of the vehicle would be best. For trail use or close range you would be fine having it on the tire carrier. I know you said about only using one for now, That antenna wire is a "co phase" wire, meaning one end at the radio split to two antenna's, it would not be good at all to only use one antenna and leave the other end empty, it will screw up the SWR reading (standing wave radio). Look for a similar deal with one antenna, Firestick are decent antenna's , for best results or for everyday use the antenna should be 2/3's above the top of the body, for trail use you will be fine with a shorter antenna but your range will suffer. Only thing against the Firestick or other fiberglass whip antenna's is with out a spring installed between the antenna and the mount the antenna is not flexible much and will break if you hit something with it. Adding a spring will change the SWR reading so if you use a Firestick or other similar antenna make sure it is adjustable to tune it. And remember a crap radio with a crap antenna is crap, a crap radio with a good antenna is better, a good radio with a good radio would be best, in other words never skimp on the antenna.

That is looking at the side of the engine as if you were changing the oil filter, and if you can get to the wire you should be able to strip the end and crimp a new terminal on, than you should be able to get it back on the sender.

Good fix ! I would run the wires thru the main harness rubber on the pass side than across to the SMJ inside the cab under the dash, less chance of anything happening to the wire that way. I had zip ties holding my air vents down also, used black ones so you couldn't see them. Had a similar problem in my 90 sentra, brake lights wouldn't come on, traced the problem to a bad wire between the fuse block and brake light switch, bypassed the factory wire and good to go again !! Electrical is always a hassle, good job figuring out your problem and thanks for sharing !!

The VG booster is different part number than the KA, I think the diaphragm's are bigger on the VG, I'm sure it would still work. Going to hit the junkyards Sunday, I have a big list !!

Already knew I need one of those

Summit racing has them also: Kits: http://www.summitracing.com/search/part-type/oil-filter-relocation-kits/oil-filter-quantity/1/thread-size/3-4-16-in/oil-filter-included/no/universal/yes

Definitely have brake fluid in the vacuum hose, removed the end from the booster and it started dripping out. Started the truck with the hose off but my finger over the end and no white smoke at first but after about a minute started smoking. Shut it off. Wonder if I pull the hose off again and shoot some carb cleaner in the hose to help clean out the brake fluid and the manifold where the hose connects? Guess I'll be looking for a used booster

if you want an oil pressure gauge just install the fitting in the stock sender location, I used a mechanical gauge in my sentra, the gauges come with 1/8" nylon tubing but they also have copper and braided SS line, yes you have to run the line into the vehicle with oil in it, some people may not want to do that but I never had a problem with the line on my gauge. I prefer mechanical gauges over electric senders as they tend to be more accurate, but I guess it's owner preference. I believe the thread on the stock sender is BST (British Standard Pipe Thread)

Sounds like a plan for tomorrow, thanks

So I was using some de-greaser under the hood of the hardbody today after work, have a power steering leak and was just trying to get everything as grease free as I can before the truck goes to my mech. buddy. I hosed all the degreaser off, wasn't concerned too much with water getting into anything as it's not like I can drive it right now anyway ( I was careful where I sprayed the water anyway) I noticed the master cylinder is low on brake fluid, I had filled it a few days ago, i can see the master cylinder is leaking from the rear as there is fluid on the booster and was planning on having it replaced once I get it running. No brake fluid anywhere under the truck at all. After I finished hosing off the engine and under the hood I let it dry for a few minutes than decided to try to start the engine, it started right up but I was getting a LOT of white smoke out the exhaust, The radiator is out of the truck and any water in the block is just what I haven't drained out yet. I read online that if the master cylinder is leaking into the brake booster the fluid can be sucked into the engine causing the white smoke, I also know it may be a head gasket or head crack. Being the brake fluid is low and none is on the ground ( or in the wheels) does it sound likely that the brake fluid is being sucked into the engine? Guess I need a new brake booster as well.

Not sure if the MAF sensor is included in this part but if it is for $75 surplus brand new part you can't beat it ! Looks like the MAF is on the part. http://www.oem-surplus.com/nwp/truck-1.htm top row far right for VG30 auto second row far left for VG30 auto with cruise Both say 86-87 D21 but should be the same You can download the 89 FSM for the hardbody, the engine and EF/EC sections should be the same: http://www.nicoclub.com/FSM/Hardbody/d21_truck_1989.pdf

loosen the lock bolt in front, than loosen the bolt accessible thru the pass. inner fender, I use a long extension, you may need to pry the power steering pump away from the block, I use a large pry bar, be careful what you pry against, pic below:

oil pressure sender, yellow wire with a red/orange boot on it, you can still see what's left of the boot on the wire, it's a standard female spade connector you can crimp a new one on to the wire. Sender is left of the oil filter above the starter.

there weren't any speakers in the rear, but they should be 5x7's as Adam said.

Not a pathfinder but close: Removed the bezel around the radio and HVAC controls, removed the radio, re-mounted the radio to the kit better so the radio isn't sticking a half inch past the kit. Cleaned behind the gauge cluster trim, removed the center vents. Plastic polished the radio bezel and gauge cluster bezel, polished the ash tray, removed the metal piece above the ash tray, wire wheeled the rust off and repainted black. Took a big chunk out of my left thumb trying to remove a pin from a connector, later found the chunk of skin still inside the metal pin ! OUCH ! I got bored watching TV and since the truck is not running or driveable yet, been messing around with little things.

I do the same thing

Now I always have this, it's an automatic opening:

guess they didn't have enough solder ! "Sounds nice. ahardbody will read that and pine away for days of yore. Did it have an electric rear window?" Mine may have an electric rear window if I can get it installed one day (if it still works, it's been a while since it was installed)

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for the 2005?