ahardb0dy

I usually just tighten my lugs with a 1/2" ratchet, every time I have the tires rotated and the shop uses the torque wrench for the final tightening the next time I have to take the wheel off for what ever reason, it always seems like the lugs aren't that tight, even though they were torqued to spec. I don't "gorilla" the lugs real tight, just seems like the correct torque isn't that tight.

just tell where ever you go what they are for so they can double check the part numbers, they had other part numbers listed, think some come bagged and others are loose so different part numbers. Make sure the lugs your wheels use are the same as what you get

you need the studs right? Either the studs or the lugs you can get from any auto parts store, the thread is 12mm x 1.25 Advance auto parts: Front - 98320.1 Rear - 98355.1 lug nut acorn style black - 99009.1 lug nut acorn style chrome - 98961.1

I agree with what Precise has said, as far as hand tools. I have a compressor ( installed in my shed at the back of the house with 1/2" schedule 80 PVC run to the front) and I have some air tools, I still have my IR 231 impact gun from back when I used to work in a shop, top quality tool but more than that whole kit you linked too. The only time I use it now a days is when I absolutely can't get a nut off by hand, or in a situation where I can't get my 1/2" breaker bar in the area I need to work on. If I'm doing brakes on someones vehicle and I know I have a bunch of lugs to remove I may use it just to save time, always double check the lug nuts by hand after tightening them with an impact gun ( using a torque wrench would be the proper way). You will most likely be better off with a decent set of hand tools, Sears has sales all the time so lots of bargains do come up, craftsman may not be as good as in the "old days" but they still have a lifetime warranty, they still replace broken tools and there are Sears stores everywhere. I would put jack stands close to the top of your list of things to buy, safety always first ! As far as air tools, air grinders use the most air, so if you plan on purchasing one, or any tool make sure what ever tool uses the most CFM that the compressor you choose can handle that tool.

didn't see it, delete this thread please , thanks

http://powernationtv.com/post/nissan-developing-self-cleaning-car

RIP !

Have you downloaded the Factory Service Manual yet? Should be procedures to troubleshoot all the codes.

you can replace the bulb easily, Radio Shack sells one that will work, I did it on mine,

Why don't you just make a bezel to fit around the whole thing to cover the gap? what vehicle is that in?

when my 94 started not starting, I did the starter relay mod and that fixed it for about a year, than I had to finally replace the starter, in the process I found the positive cable from the battery terminal to the starter the ring terminal at the starter end was almost cut in half, I replaced the whole wire with a 4 gauge cable using car audio power cable, more strands more flexible than battery cable, also added a extra ground from one of the starter mount bolts to the cross member, and replaced the battery terminals, never had a problem again, well after replacing the crap reman starter with a new aftermarket one, never had a problem again.

Check voltage at the battery while running, could be the alternator is bad and is not charging the battery.

beat me too it !

Can you have someone turn the key to start and check for power at the solenoid wire? Does your truck have the theft deterrent system? Here is the wiring schematic if you don't have it already:

replace the starter, next time it doesn't start, have someone turn the key to "start" and hold the key there, and gently tap on the starter, if it starts, it's the starter, don't bother with any reman starters unless you like to replace it a lot, either buy a brand new aftermarket or OEM starter.

The Falken Rocky Mountain ATS from Discount Tire I had on my 94 rode really well, very smooth and they seemed to be wearing very good, I never took the PF off road either was all highway use.

Number comes up using the JP & EL versions of FAST to the N14 and R32 models, part number does not come up using US FAST, In your post you say it's an oil pressure sender than later say it's the coolant sensor, which one is it? Part number comes up as the oil sender. What are you working on/trying to do ?

He said a Titan which is an "A60", But it doesn't matter anyway as the Titan uses a strut setup.

Well the one and only time I drove one was about 25 years ago so I was a lot lighter back than !!

Still looking .......

Stick with NGK, The Nissan engines like them and they came with NGK stock, either use the V groove or the standard,

switch. I went thru similar problems with my sentra, tried multiple junkyard switches, took them out cleaned the contacts still had the same problem, one headlight would not work the other wouldn't, smacked the switch and it would come on, flipped to high beams both would work, back to low beams one would be out. Finally bought a new switch thru Rob on here from Nissan. The OEM switch was a few dollars more than an aftermarket one, and I figured it was worth the few dollars as the original one lasted so long.

The 2 admins on the FB group are Carri and Simon

Crutchfield offers lifetime support so use it and let them know about the differences you found, they will take care of you.

those are rar. files, you have to download them than have a program to extract the files, with FAST you still have to set it up, the instructions.rar is a joke, 3 whole lines of instructions, good luck with that one !