ahardb0dy

I removed it for now, will get a universal one someday, I could tell from how the exhaust sounded that something was wrong, mpg came up by 3 too

And Rob likes when we call, gives him people that have a clue to talk too !! Instead of the people who try to return parts from autozone !!!

$122 delivered from rockauto Moog/national part, 36 month warranty, not too bad I guess. Thanks for the quick replies !

lifetime sealed part, no grease fittings

4x4 parts has a panhard bar drop bracket as well https://www.4x4parts.com/nissan/panhard-rod-drop-down-bracket-p-6763.html

Back again, my step daughters 2005 Chevy Tahoe 2wd making a noise, you can hear it when driving slow, sounds like something rubbing only when the wheel hits a certain spot, noise sounds like it's coming from the dr. front wheel area. Pulled the tire and brake pads so nothing was touching the rotor, put two lugs on so rotor is tight to hub, hub spins very easy but makes like a roaring noise, sounds like the bearing has no grease, no play in the hub when prying against the rotor left right or up and down. I think it needs a hub assembly just want to get other members opinion before I tell her. Thanks.

Not sure at the battery, haven't looked at it yet, He had asked me about the large fuses in the fuse block under the hood, 2 -80's and 1 - 100 amp, the 80's come right out but the 100 amp seems to be stuck, possibly it's bad I don't know. He didn't want to force the 100 amp fuse to come out without having one to replace it in case it breaks, the 2 -80's have what looks like corrosion on the top of them but I checked them for continuity with my multimeter and they both tested good. At the fuse for the alternator in the same fuse block, 7.5 amp I was getting normal battery voltage mid 12 volts. Looked at the wiring diagram and is shows the 7.5 amp and the 100 amp fuse are for the alternator, so the 100 amp could be the problem. Will talk to him later when he gets back home. Also do not know if the charge light is on. Thanks

I'm posting this here because this may also apply to the R50's with the VG33. My neighbor has a 2000 Xterra, VG33, he says the alternator is not putting anything out when checking it using a multimeter at the stud on the back of the alt. He has had the auto parts store test it three times and each time they say it passed, he even has had them replace it once. No fuses are blown or missing under the hood or in the truck. The truck was set up by the previous owner with 2 batteries in the rear cargo area with an isolator and a kill switch, he is using only one battery at this time. Any idea's on what to check or what may be wrong? Thanks all !

The cat from my car, I don't think it was running rich, maybe burning a little oil as it gets up in age 259K miles original engine, so overtime they can clog but as I said it's 24 years old. clogged cat inlet: outlet:

didn't notice the sticker, just flipped thru the pics, maybe HD is a sponsor ??, they did replace the coils and put in some chassis reinforcement bars, Guess they just wanted to go fast and not handle ?? No idea I see they mostly do cars, the HB is the only truck I have ever seen on their site.

mine was clogged on my sentra, I know they say ( which of course makes sense) to fix what ever caused the cat to clog first or a new one will do the same thing, But my car is a 90, I can see it getting clogged over all those years, burning oil, additives, etc. the OP pathfinder is a 2006. I can't see them being clogged in 8 years especially as Adam said all of them.

Is the part I pointed to in the pic below just a spacer? And this bumper in your pics was not modified for a body lift correct?

You finally had something to say ! LOL Welcome to the Forum !

the second one? A lot of people don't speak very highly of that company but they have a lot of customer rides on their site, Not a Nissan car but has a Nissan engine, they did a Skyline engine swap into a mustang: http://www.jgycustoms.com/Project%20Cars/Mustange.htm

No most of the vacuum lines are the same size, just take one off and match it up, remember to replace one at a time so you don't mess up where each goes. I think the fuel injector treatment like GV280Z suggested is a shop only one. A bottle of Techron or similar in the fuel once in a while won't hurt either. To clean the MAF sensor they sell a spray that is made just for that, be careful with the thin wire inside the MAF it's very tiny, just spray it with the cleaner and let it dry. When I cleaned my throttle body I removed it from the intake plenum so I could clean both sides but the most important area to clean is the inside where the butterfly sits against when it is closed.

try putting some gas line antifreeze in your gas, you may have gotten bad gas. I would also check the throttle body and if their are any deposits where the butterfly closes clean it as best you can with carb or TB cleaner and a tooth brush. If you haven't done it already ( which you should on a vehicle 20 plus years old), replace ALL the vacuum lines, one at a time, even if they look good, the ends tend to crack.

rotary powered hardbody: http://miami.craigslist.org/brw/cto/4383880141.html and speaking of engine swaps, SR20DET swap into hardbody - http://www.jgycustoms.com/Project%20Cars/97%20hard%20body.htm

I want a 2wd to get better gas mileage but I don't know if I can handle sitting as low ( or slightly higher) than I would be in my sentra. I know Toyota makes the Prerunner truck that uses the same setup as the 4wd's but in 2wd but I don't really want to go to Toyota, want to get another hardbody. According to fueleconomy.gov the same year hardbody (97), same engine, but 2 to 4 wheel drive is a difference of 20 to 16 MPG combined (2wd vs 4wd), once larger tires are installed on the 2wd, and the increase in body height I'm sure the 2wd number would drop slightly.

That's what I said ! Geez ! LOL I've seen on TV shows where some times they use Piano wire to cut thru the old urethane, like everyone has piano wire laying around !

I really like the look of this truck ! 2wd lifted slightly so you don't feel like your sitting on the ground, tires look big on the truck because it is a 2wd but they are about a 29" (255/70/15), Sure the MPG will drop slightly running a larger tire than stock but I would think it wouldn't drop much. This truck is a V6 I will have the KA engine Anyway, no idea who's truck it is but I like it, it's real clean too !!

Best thing to do even if you can't weld would be to prep it like you did than take it to someone who could weld the patch panel in.

Just remember when ever you are working on something and you are not sure, and have no one to ask, take one side apart, than if you get stuck you have the other side to reference.

Good job ! Was a coincidence when I needed to replace the sway bar end link bushings on my sentra, instead of buying a kit for the car with just the bushings, I found a few different part numbers online that my local auto parts was showing in stock, I asked the guy if he could pull the 3 different part numbers so I could see them and he did, two of them wouldn't work but one looked close to the sentra bushings, the part came with a new bolt and the metal sleeves but I only needed the bushings, and the part was cheap compared to buying the bushings alone for the car. I had to cut a small lip off one side of the bushings as they were slightly thicker than the sentra ones, and when I put it together (before cutting the lip off) I did not have enough thread left on the bolt to get the nut on, after I cut the lip off they worked perfect. The bolt came with 4 bushings enough to do both sides on the car. ( the car uses a different style end link than the PF (or truck), the car end link bolts onto the sway bar and only has bushings where it goes thru the control arm) But what was nice was the part I bought was like $9 and urethane compared to the bushing kit for the car which was $6 each side and were rubber Turns out the part I bought, not knowing was for a WD21 pathfinder !!

Used Mothers clay bar to remove paint on my dakota one time, business next to our yard was painting and got paint on the truck, windy I guess ! I have almost the whole stripe that I had to buy way back for my HB when I had my fender repainted, I will say the stock decals are night an day compared to the aftermarket vinyl, in terms of thickness !!!

and refer to the FSM, it does have pretty good diagrams