ahardb0dy

even if there were no washers welded to the mount, you wouldn't need a washer on each side of the mount, the bushing should be in contact with the mount on each side.

I never used the pin either, but I left it in there, actually found a second one in my storage with the cord intact so I swapped the pins for the new owner.

Did you replace the sway bar bushings the mechanic showed you? they are easy to do. IF you try to replace something and get stuck there is always someone on here you can get help from.

was going to mention gas, I removed a sticker from one of our work trucks the other day, no way as heavy of a vinyl as the stock Nissan stuff, and I used some spray lubricant and my fingernail, it took a bit than used some hand cleaner to take off any left over, all I had to work with at the time.

Not sure of washers welded to the frame, been along time since I replaced a shock, but washers welded to the frame or just a hole in the frame, still goes in the order I said as the pic shows. At least you figured it out and it rides good

I removed the stripes on my old hardbody way back, I don't remember there being any glue on the paint. I know I removed the "V6" sticker from the door first to see how much the paint had faded and it peeled off pretty easy. You could see the difference in the paint and I even had a professional detail shop try to buff the paint to get it to come back to what was under the decal but they couldn't.

your bushing order you posted is wrong, it goes on the upper stem - washer - bushing (shock mount) bushing - washer - nut You have 2 extra washers you do not need Like this:

I just priced the windshield for the member who bought my PF and the cheapest price down here was $350 if he goes to their shop it was more for them to come out (Safelite was the cheapest).

He takes care of me, I tip very well ! And help when I can ( mostly help when he does my AC work)

You need to find someone that does mech work on the side or has a small shop, $1K is a joke. For comparison, my guy, swapped the tranny in my sentra, put a new clutch and clutch cable in and charged me $80 Of course there is more work involved in a 4wd but he also charged me $530 to swap in my JDM engine in my former pathfinder, change the rear main seal and replace the timing belt.

It's urethane they use for windshields, also good for re attaching the plastic clips to the window glass that bolt to the regulator, be careful with urethane, a tiny amount like the head of a pin will spread all over you if you don't know it's on your hands !! Lol

My former 94 drove so good with the Falken's on it !

that's what the metal pin is for,

That's how my carrier was if you didn't hold on to it, it would take off, it's been a while since I lubed it

So your saying the rear bled great but the front not so much? Possibly the front bleeder screws are partially plugged or just one of them is? May want to replace the front bleeder screws and re bleed all the brakes. I've always bled the normal way ABS or not, Pass rear, Dr. rear, Pass front, Dr front.

When did the vibration start? Was anything changed before you started noticing the vibration or has it always had it?

yes, ok.

That was after I painted it, right after I bought the PF, flat black. see my pics in my build thread if you want to see good with wax ! LOL http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/topic/36309-ahardb0dys-94-pathfinder-se/page-2 tire carrier before and after page 1, nicely waxed with the Mothers 3 stage system page 2

Looks like there is enough room, they make angled and right angle Zerk fittings to:

That's about the same size tip that the IR impact guns use to put grease into them

When you swing the carrier wide open you will see the holes on the inside of the carrier at the hinge point, one top one bottom. I know they say it's not really a good lubricant but I sprayed in the holes on my old 94 with WD40 and the thing still swings open with no effort at all.

good, just checking. Didn't see if you answered already, sorry to keep asking but did you check the UCA bolts to the frame?

You replaced the U-joints? Did you put it back together the same way it came apart?

If the rear seal was leaking you wouldn't see oil Above it, it would only Leak going down, if around (below) your valve cover (s) looks wet probably leaking from the valve cover gasket

For the starting problem I would pull the steering column covers and make sure the electrical part of the ignition switch is attached properly to the lock cylinder part, This is from my sentra but it should look similar, the electrical part would attach to the left end of the lock cylinder in this picture, I think there is only one screw holding it together if I recall correctly.