ahardb0dy

yup. so the FSM labeled for the 95 on the NICO site is actually for the 94 as I said.

I don't think this one was Lee's, I have a video of his and the TB as My1path said was hanging over on the pass side, don't know who's this is: This was Lee's:

Hack me a 93 truck manual from somewhere ( sorry skillfully browse I meant ! LOL)

That's why I save any manuals I come across, if the hosting site shuts down they would be lost and I will have them. Probably why I have diesel engine manuals for Nissan's that were never sold in the US with them !

Pick up some grease for the slide pins, I like a product called Sylglide but if they don't have it ask for brake caliper grease. Not the anti squeal stuff, it's a grease, You can also grease the areas where the pads sit in the torque member. When you tighten the caliper bolts, they don't have to be monster tight, I will tighten them by hand than put a wrench on the head of the bolt and give it one whack with my hand, that's good enough.

Was just looking at cars for sale and found this: http://www.carsforsale.com/used_cars_for_sale/1975_chevrolet_vega_226741261_5 No, not looking for a vega just came across it, lol

does looking at old pictures of it count?

may not need a radiator, wouldn't hurt to replace it being a 90 but, when my old 94 was running hot, not real hot but above or near half, I replaced the fan clutch and it never went near half again, that was driving mid summer in too hot Florida.

Wouldn't happen to have a 93 manual around would you? For the Hardbody?

I have the FSM engine (only) section for a ZD30DD, no idea if it is the same as your engine, send your e-mail to me in a PM and I can send you what I have. No idea where I got it from, lol but I have it

You didn't look hard enough, nice thing about the newer FSM's, they let you click on the links and the appropriate section will open (usually) if not the link will at least tell you what section to look in, in this case, looking at the 2001.5 FSM in the EL (Electrical) section, links over to the RS (Restraint) section for removal instructions, so to make it a little easy for you link below, page 19, (start on page 17 for airbag removal procedure): http://www.nicoclub.com/FSM/Pathfinder/2001.5_Pathfinder/rs.pdf Your Welcome ! LOL

looks like it per Nissan FAST, part indicated in green:

I have the 95 supplement as a PDF also on my computer. The 95 FSM under the forward section says it was printed in 1993, also says " See supplement manual for updated information and revised wiring diagrams" if you scroll to the next page it says "This manual contains maintenance and repair procedures for the the 94 Nissan Truck and Pathfinder" The 1994 FSM says the exact same thing ( the FSM's on the Nico site) The 1995 supplement (Printed in 1994) says "This service manual contains the new service procedures, service data and specifications for the 1995 Nissan Truck and Pathfinder D21 series" and also " This service manual does not contain the service procedures, etc which are the same as those for the 1994 model, Please use this manual in conjunction with the 1994 Nissan Truck and Pathfinder, model D21 series service manual" So I guess some where along the lines when the FSM's were uploaded to NICO the 94 FSM got uploaded twice once as the 94 FSM and once as the 95 FSM. reading what I just wrote suggests to me there was not an actual 95 FSM just the supplement to the 94 FSM.

look at it at night without the water first, if it's arching that bad where you can hear it, probably won't need any water.

Classic Rock, old school hip hop, metal,

pretty bad when you don't know if your car is a coupe or sedan

just try to center the speaker and get the new screw holes as far away from the edge of the opening, you can see in my pic above where the screw holes are and how one of them is very close to the edge, if the speaker you are going to use is too deep you can use a spacer behind it, nice thing about the pathfinder door panels, that you don't see the speaker at all ( compared to say the hardbody's with the flat door panels),

the stock speakers in the front doors were 5x7's, but the trucks came with a plastic adapter that the speaker sits in, if the truck does not have the adapter than a 5x7 will not fit right, on my 94 I used to have I took the adapters out and used 6.5" speakers, they fit fine, you just have to keep an eye on the depth of the speaker so it doesn't hit the glass, and you have to make new mounting holes, not a big deal, if you do use 6.5's ( or 6 3/4"), hold the speaker up to the door and mark the holes, pre-drill the holes with out the speaker than mount it, being careful not to slip and take out the cone with the screwdriver. Some pics below: not the best pic but the white part on the top right of the pile is the speaker adapter: this is the opening without the adapter: this was with my test speaker checking for clearance to the glass:

check it at night, spray some water from a spray bottle on it and look for arching, May not even need the water if it is arching that bad. The cap probably has a crack or the boot on that one wire has a hole in it, when you said every time you touch it you get zapped indicates to me a crack where the spark is arching against something, If the wires are original replace them as well as the cap and rotor. Does the engine feel like it has less power than it did before? If so that is a definite indication that something is arching. On my 90 sentra one of the plug wires had a hole in the insulation, when driving in 5th gear it wouldn't go over 55 MPH, found the hole in the wire was arching against the block, wrapped it with electrical tape and it ran fine, 10 minutes later it burned thru the tape and ran like crap again.

how is the fan clutch?

in that pic the wheels are straight? You have to turn the wheel fully than bolt the stabilizer to the centerlink, than turn fully the other way to make sure it doesn't limit your turning, which I'm sure you did. I had one years ago on my 87 hardbody, a rancho and never noticed it effecting the return to center.

Make sure the stabilizer is sitting level, did you install it with the stabilizer fully extended and the wheels turned so when you installed it, it was located in the correct place?

I would advise you to lay a paper towel or towel on the ground and as you remove the hub parts lay them out in the order they are removed, that way you will know how it goes back together.

We used to keep the guns set on "3", most of the guys in the shop ( including myself) all used the Ingersoll Rand IR231 impact guns, of course not all impact guns are the same some brands and models being weaker others stronger. One of our guys even had his modified to make it stronger for special occasions. Those torque limiting socket things were just coming out about the time I was working in the shop.

Way back when I worked in the 4x4 shop doing tires, I had a guy with a F250 (or F350 can't recall, had 8 lug wheels) show him that he could remove the lug nuts by hand after I had installed them using the impact gun because he was so worried that he wouldn't be able to if he had a flat or what ever, so after I finished installing and tightening all his wheels I had to take them off by hand just so he could see it wasn't impossible to do ! PITA !!