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ahardb0dy

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Everything posted by ahardb0dy

  1. They usually recommend using 18' of coax but this is debated often, using the right coax is more important than the length, the right coax for a single antenna would be RG58 or RG8x ( which is better), for two antennas RG59/U would be used. Two antennas should not be installed on our trucks, they are designed for semi sized trucks and should be a minimum of 12' apart. The reason semi's run twin antennas is the reception pattern from twin antennas is better forward and backwards than side to side, most truckers are more concerned with what is going on ahead and behind them. than from the sides. If you have excess coax you should bundle it together in a coil no less than 12", tie wrap each end and tuck it out of the way. If the SWR's are high on all channels it may be from a lack of a good ground plane, this may occur if the antenna is mounted on a spare tire carrier among other area's that do not have a good ground connection to the body, a wire can be run from the mount to the frame to help in grounding the antenna. The 102" whips are designed to be installed with a spring. I prefer a base load coil antenna and use Wilson brand antennas (Wilson 1000), everyone has their favorite. I like the base load antennas as you only have a thin whip compared to a fiberglass or a metal whip, the thin whip will bend when it hits tree branches, etc. and is also removable when you don't need/want the whip installed ( Wilson gives you a cap with the antenna to cover the threaded mount) Magnet mount Wilson antennas work fine, I prefer the perm. mount but a hole would need to be drilled, ideal location is in the center of the roof, this gives a unidirectional pattern. An antenna is directional to the opposite directions that it is mounted, for example an antenna on the pass/ rear is more directional to the front left.. You can have the best CB and a crap antenna and you will not get out or receive well, but a good antenna will make a crap CB work just fine. Where did you check your SWR's? You should be in an open parking lot or similar area with no over head wires, doors of the truck closed. When you key the mic and the swr reading is high, are you parked or moving? What meter are you using to check the SWR? I would also check the ends of the coax cable, what brand of cable are you using? If from Radio Shack I would recommend checking in a truck shop or a CB store if there is one around and try to find the grey RG8X cable, much better than the Radio Shack coax which they usually just crimp the ends on too.
  2. The bushings are actually a pin, and it is metal, see here: http://faculty.ccp.edu/faculty/dreed/Campingart/nistail/ The 102" whips are designed to be mounted on the bumper, it really is too long to mount higher. Make sure the cable you are using is in good shape. The 102" whip is the only antenna that doesn't need to be adjusted, it's the proper length to give a good SWR reading.
  3. "So how are you setup to have 2 oil filters? Show us some good pictures of how it's done" Dual remote filter mount, ran one on my old 87 hardbody for a while.
  4. you could position the breaker bar so it it is wedged against the ground or frame than crank the engine for a short moment.
  5. I just measured from the bottom of the pocket under the radio to the rear of the console and it was 34"
  6. I do most of my own work on the truck, but for any big jobs I take it to my buddy, he has a lift so it's easier for him to do it and he takes care of me price wise, for example, when I bought a Brand new 5 speed tranny for my 90 sentra to replace the stock 4 speed, he swapped the tranny and replaced the clutch cable for me for $80
  7. It's not an LED in the switch it's a regular bulb, they do burn out and are easy to replace, Radio Shack has the bulb. To test the adjustable shocks, Instead of just pressing the switch one time fast, press and hold the switch for a few seconds, try the comfort setting first, make sure you have the key on when you try this, Standing outside the truck, either side, press against the roof of the truck and try to rock the truck from side to side, notice how easy the truck rocks. Now press and hold for a few seconds the adjustable shock switch to the other position , may say Sport , repeat the rocking the truck test, if the truck seems harder to move than the shocks are working. Another way is to open the rear hatch and press down on the floor, do it in both shock modes, you should easily feel a difference on how much the truck will go up and down, if the shocks are working. As for ride quality, the pathfinder does ride good, but you have to realize, the older Pathfinders (WD21's) are trucks built on a frame and are not really designed to have a "Cadillac" ride, they can and will ride good, based on how well the truck is maintained, tire type and condition, etc,
  8. ahardb0dy

    Screws

    I hate when Philips's head gets stripped off
  9. it may be offset so if a truck is a 4x4 there is room for the transfer case shifter
  10. I had a pocket under the radio, guess it was for an optional CD player, I installed gauges in it now, Have a regular rubber shifter boot, than a few inches of carpet behind the boot, than a console with a square pocket and the storage compartment: pics when I first bought the truck:
  11. I have a bunch of old Frontier brochures, going to pull them out and take a look, thanks
  12. ahardb0dy

    Screws

    the 8 sided is a Scrulox, a double square invented by Robertson:
  13. Is that console one piece all the way to the part around the shifter? What is the round part just behind the shifter? another cup holder? is that stock? Thanks for taking the time to get the measurements for me too ! I'll have to measure mine tomorrow, may be going to another junkyard on Tuesday that I think has the newer pathfinder and a few Frontiers.
  14. I'm looking to swap the console so I can have the cup holders and the larger, taller storage compartment/arm rest is nice too. Being I have a 2wd Hardbody I don't have to mess with the E-brake as it is below the dash and I have a manual trans so no problems with the transfer case shifter, just have to find a console from a 2wd Pathfinder, which isn't hard down here as 90% of the PF's I see in the junk yards are 2wd's.
  15. ahardb0dy

    Screws

    it's Robertson "Scrulox® is another Robertson Invention. An 8-sided (double square) decorative design that can be used with a standard Robertson bit, or for additional torque, a Scrulox®8 bit. These double square fasteners are used on Haulmark trailers and other industrial designs."
  16. ahardb0dy

    Screws

    I have a nice cheap set from Harbor Freight that is nothing but security bits
  17. I'm just curious if the newer R50 console is longer than what I have in my Hardbody, every time I try to picture the newer console in my truck it seems like there isn't enough space between where the shifter is and the storage box area. I'm going to swap the newer console into my 93 Hardbody when I can find one from a 2wd manual trans PF
  18. here is a 96 console with the switches in front I found online:
  19. Could someone measure the length of the center console for me please? Front to rear. Anyone know what year they changed the switch locations in the console? I've seen the switches in front of the shifter and also behind the shifter near the little ash tray. Thanks
  20. what stick? the transfer case shifter? Shouldn't be a problem as the junkyards down here seem to have every 2wd pathfinder ever made, I see more 2wd R50's than 4x4's. Not the best pic, got it from a for sale ad I found online, shows the 2wd manual trans console:
  21. welcome, I can re-key locks to match your key also, if ever needed.
  22. Wonder if the newer pathfinder console would fit easier in my 2wd hardbody , since the E-brake is under the dash no worries about moving it over, Guess would need a 2wd pathfinder console.

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