ahardb0dy

if it's a small diameter line about 1/4" or slightly larger it is for the fuel pressure regulator as was said.

Here's Nissannut's VG33 swap: http://nissannut.com/maintenance/vg33e_upgrade/

I never had any issues with the ball joints even when I ran 35's on my former 87 hardbody and I beat the crap out out of that truck, the center link was another story and was replaced way more than it should have been. Some people burn the stock bushings out of the arm, still have to press the new ones in though.

Profile says 97

I would keep the spare on the tire rack, how much bigger are you planning on going? Think even a bigger tire would be better on the tire carrier than on the roof.

Do you have the daytime running lights in Canada? Possibly the noise in the dash could be from the module??

so the roof of a WD21 is longer than the R50? I know you want to keep the basket but I think if I was doing this I would lose the basket and shorten the front tubes so the rear one will fit on the roof, but it's your truck.

Can't you move the bar forward so the rear mount would work?

You can turn the middle mount so it sits inward, you would need to drill anew hole and use a rivnut to mount the middle mount. I reversed the middle mounts when I installed the rack on my former 94 pathfinder. I also used riv nuts to mount it to the roof.

running Mobil 1 high mileage 5/W30 in my 93 Hardbody

The original suspension lift upper control arms sold were reinforced stock arms with ball joint spacers welded in ( they boxed the bottoms), I had them on my 87 Hardbody way back. The spacer allows you to crank in more lift than with the stock arm as it moves the upper control arm up the thickness of the spacer. That was fine to get lift but made aligning the truck harder. Later Jim Connor Racing came out with the tubular arms which were designed to give lift while still being able to align the front end. I think a 1" spacer is a bit much, the original Jim Connor Racing arms had at most a 1/2" spacer welded in. As I mentioned they fully boxed the open bottom of the arms to give them more strength, I never had a problem with my control arms, ball joints, CV axles or the ability to get the truck aligned. I tried to keep about a half inch of space between the upper control arms and the bumpstops, and my lower control arms were almost sitting level, angled down slightly. If you ever see a lifted Nissan truck and the lower arms are angled like this - / \ than it is cranked up too high. I would recommend aftermarket torsion bars as they tend to hold the cranked in lift longer than the stock bars. I had two stage bars ( no longer made)

Felpro or OEM Felpro $14.41 on Rockauto minus 5% with the discount code or $23.99 for the one with the grommets ( seals that go on the bolts)

you mean how to bleed the salve cylinder? there is a bleed screw on it

I removed the idler arm from the frame when I replaced the starter in my 94 the last time ( don't ask ! LOL), I would highly recommend a OEM Nissan starter ( rebuilt but good) or a aftermarket NEW ONLY starter ! I used one from Rockauto made by Pure Energy, only NEW one they had. I was able to get the starter past the trans lines by rotating it, one time I pulled it out from the top. Never had a problem removing the O2 sensor.

probably a warped rotor

"I washed it. I need to wax off some weird sticky tar stuff that's stuck to the lower part of the doors." Little WD40 on a rag will take that off

Don't think the O2 sensor would throw a code. If you haven't changed it probably a good idea to do so anyway.

does anyone have rotors cut any more?

if one of the plugs is under the steering wheel it may be for the under dash/foot well light that some trucks have, the diagnostic connector, in the area mentioned usually has a clearish rubber boot over it and is rectangle.

I have some manuals for the Diesel but nothing for what you are looking for. I think the 87 FSM has the diesel engine in it as well .

e-mail Nitto and ask

I think where ever you got the weight for the Nitto Trail Grappler M/T is wrong, I just found it online saying it weighs 72.8 pounds

I was just going by the size the OP was talking about.

If you do it the first way I said by taking the 2 wires from the fuses that are always "hot" and moving them to 2 fuses that are on with the key, than No you would not need a relay. After looking at the schematic and noticing that there is one fusible link that powers the 2 headlight fuses I thought it may be easier to use a relay and make all the connections under the hood, this way you do not need to mess with the fuses at all, basically you would be making the power coming from the fusible link a switched power source, instead of the constant hot that it is stock. Either way ( or perhaps other ways) it can be done. I guess it would come down to preference. The two ways I listed, I would do it with the relay as it actually seems easier ( to me anyway) If you were to move the 2 wires coming out from the headlight fuses ( the stock location) than you would need to find 2 other fuses to use, what fuses you could "piggyback" off of would be a concern, you don't want to put the headlights on a fuse that already controls something else, and you wouldn't want to upgrade an existing fuse and possibly overload the stock wires. The only thing with the relay that may be a problem ( I don't think it would hurt the relay), is whenever the key is on, the relay would be energized.

There are 2 wires for the headlights going to the switch, after thinking about what I wrote I think the best way would be the second way I mentioned. Would only have to run 1 wire into the cab to a switched source from the relay, (may be able to find a switched source under the hood). fusible link wire to the relay, other end coming out of the relay, and a ground, done. Headlights wires still protected at the battery by the original fusible link, and protected using the same fuses in the fuse box. Headlights on, forget to shut them off, key off headlights off The above is based on the assumption that nothing else shares that same fusible link.