ahardb0dy

I split one of the lower arms on my former Hardbody one time 4 wheeling, just picked one up from junkyard and swapped it in.

I don't go on that forum much since selling my Sentra but I'm on or have been on most of the Nissan Forums. I only have 1266 posts on that forum, 6473 on Infamous, and 194 on NICO , LOL

I have pictures of two of the different regulators (out of the 3) in that second link, starting at post #12

keep in mind that the early Nissan trucks used a voltage regulator on the rear of the gauge cluster that controlled the temp and fuel gauges, if you happen to have problems with the fuel gauge too It may be the regulator.

Old topic, I know, But just found a pic of the discontinued Rancho suspension lift and wanted to add it to the thread: I saved the pic in case the archive site goes down:

Tinypic, no matter who may own it, is still working fine

also to install the rack you would need some rivnuts or nutserts and the installation tool, that is what I used on mine, Nissan uses the same type fastener except the nutserts I used are round and the OEM ones are hexagon shaped, you can find the hexagon shaped ones but the tool to make the hex hole is expensive.

I did mine differently as I had the sunroof, I reversed the 2 center mounts so they sit inside the rails, and moved the rails further out toward the edge, pics below: flipping the middle mounts to the inside brought them so they weren't sitting over the groove on the roof: Had to trim the inside corner of the front mounts to clear the sunroof, glass opens normally but you would have to remove the rack to remove the glass: Pic from a distance:

I still use tinypic.com, the site has problems some days but most of the time it works just fine.

Sorrento Florida, Former 94 Pathfinder owner now have a 93 Hardbody

I didn't find it either, obviously.

Installed one yesterday on the pass. side, with a new bulb, the old bulb was still working but the ground terminal was very loose. I'm using 10 gauge wire, the wire fits fine but it would probably be easier and more flexible with a smaller gauge. Plug holds on to the bulb very well. I don't run the high beams often so will keep an eye on the plug to see how it holds up When I was searching for these online, they come up with different part numbers from quite a few manufacturers that I guess use them

Don't know how they will handle the heat. I melted the stock plugs, the auto parts store replacements, than switched to ceramic, they all sucked, running 55/100 watt bulbs, all 10 gauge wiring with a double Dick Cepek (old) relay, grounds looped up to the radiator support, metal stripped secured with a nut and bolt. Right now the pass. side I attached the wires directly to the bulb terminals using "j clips" and screws. Time will tell on how these plugs hold up, may swap the pass. side for one of these new ones later.

I'm looking for a post that was about former Baja racing trucks, it had a link to a site (trying to find the site), where you could click on the different classes of races and it had old pics of the race trucks and info on the drivers. I thought it was on NPORA but not sure. If anyone remembers seeing such a thread can you link it into this post? Thanks

I found these headlight plugs about a week ago online, made by Hella, they are unique as they have 3 spring loaded push button's that you press in than insert the stripped end of a the wire into each hole, the spring (powerful, I could hardly press the button in !), holds the wire in place. I tried one inserting a 10 gauge wire into one opening, 10 gauge as that is what I rewired my headlights using for the high output bulbs and double relay, it works very good, I also put a bulb into it and it holds onto the bulb terminals very firmly. They are made out of what looks like that Bakerlite plastic with a composite back ( looks like circuit board material) Part number is - 001909001 ordered them from Summit Racing and there number is HLA-001909001 they cost $5.46 each Pic's of the plug below: Rear: Front: Side view showing thickness: May install one tomorrow, will review them after

2004 Xterra uses the same bolt pattern as the older Pathfinder & Hardbody, Nissan went to the smaller bolt pattern on the 2005 Xterra The 265/75 tire is close to the same size as a 31/10.50 tire

Picked up one of these shift knobs Saturday from junkyard (free). I have a 2wd Hardbody now but it caught my eye being covered with nice black leather. Knob is heavy as hell also, lot heavier than the truck transfer case knob. I'm going to use it as a shift knob for my trans. pic below.

pull the exhaust manifold shields off if it has them and see if any nuts/studs are missing.

http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/topic/27379-trailmaster-suspension-instructions/?hl=%2Btrailmaster+%2Bsuspension+%2Binstructions

I don't have a Pathfinder any longer but I drove it when I had it because I like Nissan's (older ones, they can keep all that complicated crap !), and as Adam said they are reliable and they are fairly easy to work on, and go basically any where you want them too. Plus they look good.

so the power from the low beams runs to the switch than out to trigger the relay? So run switched power to the switch and the lights will come on when ever you want. Thanks

I wasn't sure ( I'm looking into this for someone else), if they ran the relay trigger wire to the low beams or if the power to the switch ran from the low beam? That's why I was looking for a schematic.

Was curious on how they wired it into the low beams so it could be disabled.

Anyone have the wiring schematic for the OEM fog lights for a WD21 or D21? Or the instructions on how to wire them. Thanks thought I saw it on here one time.

air in the system can cause hotter than normal temps also. Did you bleed the air out when coolant was replaced? Make sure to have the heat on when doing so , so the coolant flows through the whole system. But sounds like fan clutch is bad.