ahardb0dy

Don't know how they will handle the heat. I melted the stock plugs, the auto parts store replacements, than switched to ceramic, they all sucked, running 55/100 watt bulbs, all 10 gauge wiring with a double Dick Cepek (old) relay, grounds looped up to the radiator support, metal stripped secured with a nut and bolt. Right now the pass. side I attached the wires directly to the bulb terminals using "j clips" and screws. Time will tell on how these plugs hold up, may swap the pass. side for one of these new ones later.

I found these headlight plugs about a week ago online, made by Hella, they are unique as they have 3 spring loaded push button's that you press in than insert the stripped end of a the wire into each hole, the spring (powerful, I could hardly press the button in !), holds the wire in place. I tried one inserting a 10 gauge wire into one opening, 10 gauge as that is what I rewired my headlights using for the high output bulbs and double relay, it works very good, I also put a bulb into it and it holds onto the bulb terminals very firmly. They are made out of what looks like that Bakerlite plastic with a composite back ( looks like circuit board material) Part number is - 001909001 ordered them from Summit Racing and there number is HLA-001909001 they cost $5.46 each Pic's of the plug below: Rear: Front: Side view showing thickness: May install one tomorrow, will review them after

2004 Xterra uses the same bolt pattern as the older Pathfinder & Hardbody, Nissan went to the smaller bolt pattern on the 2005 Xterra The 265/75 tire is close to the same size as a 31/10.50 tire

Picked up one of these shift knobs Saturday from junkyard (free). I have a 2wd Hardbody now but it caught my eye being covered with nice black leather. Knob is heavy as hell also, lot heavier than the truck transfer case knob. I'm going to use it as a shift knob for my trans. pic below.

http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/topic/27379-trailmaster-suspension-instructions/?hl=%2Btrailmaster+%2Bsuspension+%2Binstructions

so the power from the low beams runs to the switch than out to trigger the relay? So run switched power to the switch and the lights will come on when ever you want. Thanks

I wasn't sure ( I'm looking into this for someone else), if they ran the relay trigger wire to the low beams or if the power to the switch ran from the low beam? That's why I was looking for a schematic.

Was curious on how they wired it into the low beams so it could be disabled.

Anyone have the wiring schematic for the OEM fog lights for a WD21 or D21? Or the instructions on how to wire them. Thanks thought I saw it on here one time.

air in the system can cause hotter than normal temps also. Did you bleed the air out when coolant was replaced? Make sure to have the heat on when doing so , so the coolant flows through the whole system. But sounds like fan clutch is bad.

double post

Is that one leather? I already have a 4 spoke that looks like that but it's not the leather one:

Fan control amplifier is on the evaporator box, behind the glove box, see here page 67: http://www.nicoclub.com/FSM/Pathfinder/1997_Pathfinder/ha.pdf

The clutch safety switch just provides a ground to the starter relay under the hood. Easiest way to bypass the switch would be to disconnect the wire coming from the switch at the relay and run a new wire from a ground to the spot on the relay where you disconnected the wire. If your having problems with the truck is starting, the starter relay is a common item to fail.

more under the dash than behind, you have to remove the glove box and the plate behind it, disconnect the 2 AC lines under the hood at the firewall, than remove the screws that hold the evaporator box to the firewall, and the box should pull out. Once out, remove the clips holding the 2 halves together, and remove the top half of the box to get to the expansion valve. There is also a plug or 2 ( been a while since I messed with one) to disconnect before removing the box. The foam they use between the box and the rest of the AC under the dash usually will fall apart, so you will need something to replace it, in my former sentra, I ended up wrapping some AC tape around the ends of the box to keep the air inside from leaking out.

Make sure the vacuum line that goes to the fuel pressure regulator is still attached and that it does not have any cracks in it on the ends.

Anyone know if Nissan ever had a 4 spoke steering wheel in red (burgundy) leather? Referring to on a WD21 If you have one or have seen one, please post a pic, Thanks

I use this one also: http://www.rimsntires.com/specspro.jsp

anytime you open the AC system, the drier and expansion valve should be replaced. Not that hard to replace.

Shouldn't need 2 electric fans if the fan clutch is working correctly. Are the electric fans turning the correct way? Pushing into the radiator?

Typical replacement item, not something that should fail often. if replaced it probably won't have to be replaced again.

That is an exhaust mount, I replaced that one on my hardbody, it should look like this: http://www.ebay.com/itm/NISSAN-OEM-BRACKET-20611-31G00-BRKT-EXH-TUBE-/221740928839

I don't recall a mount or stabilizer on the transfer case, could it be the rear trans mount? Does it look like this?:

headlight switch is a common item that acts up over time, at least you were able to fix it. I cleaned the contacts on the headlight switch on my former sentra and it was good for a few days than acted up again. was going to order a switch from rockauto but found the OEM switch was a few dollars more and figured the OEM switch lasted 19 years so it was worth it to pay a few dollars more to get another OEM part.

The switch has a separate contact for each low and each high beam. Check the bulb as was suggested (swap them) if still no low on the one side, check for power at the headlight socket, if no power, you may want to pull the switch and pry the clear (white) plastic off to expose the contacts (shown below) and try cleaning the bottom of each contact and the small metal "pad" the contact sits against. Be careful not to bend the contacts or it will never work right again. Some people just run some fine sand paper to clean the contacts. Switch looks like this ( the contacts):