ahardb0dy

I didn't mean to make it sound like a coil, I usually will bunch the coax together in a loop about 12-14" long and tie wrap the ends, If I have that much extra.

so basically,, cut the red/white wire after the fusible link, connect it to the output of a relay (terminal 87), connect the relay to power with a fuse at the battery ( terminal 30), connect a ground to the relay (terminal 85), than connect a switched power source to terminal 86. When the key is on, the relay has power, which feeds the 2 fuses for the headlights and all works as normal, key off, relay is off, no headlights. The 2 headlight fuses are 15 amps each so need to make sure the relay and wiring can handle the combined 30 amps. you could probably use the wire from the fusible link ( where you cut it), to power the relay, since it was already powering the 2 fuses for the headlights, it will be rated enough to run the relay.

Per the 90 FSM ( Don't have one for 91, probably the same), the 2 fuses that control the headlights are the 4th and 5th fuses, bottom row, counting starting from the let side of the fuse panel. If you remove the fuse panel to get to the rear of it, those two wires should be a red & a red/white stripe, the FSM shows both of those wires coming from the 2 separate fuses I mentioned, going to the headlight switch. I would check those two fuses with a test light first to make sure they have power with the key off, if they both do, than you would need to remove those 2 wires, and run them to a new location that only has power when the key is on. remember at the fuse, one side of each fuse goes to the headlight switch but the other side (the input) comes from the fusible link. Another way to do this, which may be easier is to cut the wire coming out of the fusible link (after the fusible link) that feeds the two fuses for the headlights, ( wire marked in red line in diagram below, wire is not red I just used red to mark the wires), than run that wire through a relay that is triggered by a wire connected to a source that is only on with the key, diagram from the 90 FSM:

don't forget to run the lock nut back down so it's touching the big nut.

This would work if you want the headlights on when ever the key is on, if you want it the other way you could do it as I said.

You want the headlights to only come on when the key is on? Or you want the headlights to come on with the ignition so they would be on all the time? If you want the headlights to only come on when the key is "ON" than you can take the 2 wires that come from the fuse box, from the un-switched fuses ( power with out the key being on) and move them to 2 switched fuses (power with the key on).

BFG tires have that tri guard sidewall which may be why the tire is heavier, the KA2 says the sidewall is 20% stiffer, I guess than the previous KO tires. a 31/10.50/15 is about the same size as the 265/70/15 other than the 31 is slightly taller, the 31 weighs 42.6 pounds. I do not see a Nitto tire in either a 31" or the 265/70 size to compare.

May have to pull the cluster and check where the odometer makes contact with the gear on the speedometer, I've read where the LCD for the digital odometers don't like cold weather also but if the analog odometer is not working it is probably a physical thing. Have you checked to see if the light dimmer is not turned down all the way? I don't think it controls the brightness on the digital odometer but worth it to check it.

just pick up the vacuum hose from the auto parts, there are a couple different sizes so you may need to either buy a few different sizes or pull a couple different hoses off to check the sizes, I would replace every hose you can, just make sure to do one at a time

Welcome

probably a bulb for the part where the numbers are. Does the normal analog odometer work?

This is the page from Nissan FAST for a 4x4 WD21 pathfinder, which hanger (s) do you need?

my hardbody, used Mother's Showtime to clean the new chrome bumper and to clean the front fenders, new/used chrome power mirrors and grille.

actually Wilson fiberglass whips use the set screw to hold the short metal adjustment part on the end, Firestick (the easily adjustable models) use a sort of nut and the adjustable part screws up or down. two antenna's on the rear would make for some good range facing forward I'm sure !

Welcome, good luck !

try pressing the odometer reset button, sometimes they get stuck. The odometer runs off a gear from the speedometer so if the speedometer is working than there is nothing wrong with the speed sensor, no cable for the speedometer in the 94.

better now than after it's all together and than it would be more work

I would say if you don't have it back together yet than might as well make a gasket

bad gas could be water in the gas, especially in colder climates it's always a good idea to run the gas line anti freeze in the gas once in a while. If you haven't done it already I would suggest replacing ALL the vacuum lines, these trucks are getting old and the rubber doesn't last forever, a small crack on the end of the hose or in a place you can't see easily will make the engine run ******, just buy some different diameter vacuum line and replace one at a time.

This is the Wilson I prefer, roof mount, permanent mount ( have to drill a hole): http://www.wilsonantenna.com/products/cb-antennas-kitswhips-tips/sp/wilson-w1000-series-roof-top-mount-mobile-cb-antenna-kit/

I never said you wouldn't get a good SWR reading running co phased antenna's on a small vehicle, I just was saying it effects the reception/transmitting pattern. 108" whips on a Maverick? front and rear I hope? On my old hardbody I drilled the hole right in the center of the roof (king cab), was easy to get to the cable inside after removing the sunroof latch and rubber trim. I guess on some vehicles with tire carriers there can be a problem depending on how the carrier mounts are isolated from the body, and some vehicles use bushings ( not metal). I used to run firestick fiberglass whips, I prefer the one's that you remove the rubber cap and can adjust them with an allen wrench.

They usually recommend using 18' of coax but this is debated often, using the right coax is more important than the length, the right coax for a single antenna would be RG58 or RG8x ( which is better), for two antennas RG59/U would be used. Two antennas should not be installed on our trucks, they are designed for semi sized trucks and should be a minimum of 12' apart. The reason semi's run twin antennas is the reception pattern from twin antennas is better forward and backwards than side to side, most truckers are more concerned with what is going on ahead and behind them. than from the sides. If you have excess coax you should bundle it together in a coil no less than 12", tie wrap each end and tuck it out of the way. If the SWR's are high on all channels it may be from a lack of a good ground plane, this may occur if the antenna is mounted on a spare tire carrier among other area's that do not have a good ground connection to the body, a wire can be run from the mount to the frame to help in grounding the antenna. The 102" whips are designed to be installed with a spring. I prefer a base load coil antenna and use Wilson brand antennas (Wilson 1000), everyone has their favorite. I like the base load antennas as you only have a thin whip compared to a fiberglass or a metal whip, the thin whip will bend when it hits tree branches, etc. and is also removable when you don't need/want the whip installed ( Wilson gives you a cap with the antenna to cover the threaded mount) Magnet mount Wilson antennas work fine, I prefer the perm. mount but a hole would need to be drilled, ideal location is in the center of the roof, this gives a unidirectional pattern. An antenna is directional to the opposite directions that it is mounted, for example an antenna on the pass/ rear is more directional to the front left.. You can have the best CB and a crap antenna and you will not get out or receive well, but a good antenna will make a crap CB work just fine. Where did you check your SWR's? You should be in an open parking lot or similar area with no over head wires, doors of the truck closed. When you key the mic and the swr reading is high, are you parked or moving? What meter are you using to check the SWR? I would also check the ends of the coax cable, what brand of cable are you using? If from Radio Shack I would recommend checking in a truck shop or a CB store if there is one around and try to find the grey RG8X cable, much better than the Radio Shack coax which they usually just crimp the ends on too.

The bushings are actually a pin, and it is metal, see here: http://faculty.ccp.edu/faculty/dreed/Campingart/nistail/ The 102" whips are designed to be mounted on the bumper, it really is too long to mount higher. Make sure the cable you are using is in good shape. The 102" whip is the only antenna that doesn't need to be adjusted, it's the proper length to give a good SWR reading.

"So how are you setup to have 2 oil filters? Show us some good pictures of how it's done" Dual remote filter mount, ran one on my old 87 hardbody for a while.

bolts from pic link: