adamzan

If the timing is correct, then you may have another issue. Any codes? If the timing is too far off it usually will have no low end.

Any mechanic/tire shop will have one.

With the newer automatics you really should run the OEM fluid. Yes it costs more, but a new transmission costs even more. They are more complicated and not like the old ones that will run forever on cheap generic @!*%. I would consider 250 dollars cheap as I could probably not even have my WD21 auto serviced for that price.

haha serves them right for selling used @!*% for as much as a new one costs. What wreckers was it?

Blew up the engine on my Xterra:

This happened to me too... Replaced timing belt/water pump/etc. Was fine for about a week until someone in the Mcd's drive through says my truck is pissing coolant. Got to change that in the driveway in January in Canada. Fun.

209 dollars for a used distributor? What the fskc? I have a used one out of a 3.3L Xterra (same) that I would have driven to you from Ottawa for that much money lol.

On your egr valve you will see what looks like a second little round valve... Do you see a small 1-2" long hose connecting 2 metal hoses? Mine had a split in it and was causing the code 32. Looks like this:

I had have a 3" body lift with the 4x4 parts 3" SL for years. I've got no complaints. If you crank the bars but don't lift the rear it will have a huge rake.

The xterra seats are worse. Trust me, I have one. I get into my wd21 and I'm like "ahhhhh". To be honest I would try and fine some of the leather seats out of an SE or LE. I love mine and they have adjustable lumbar. Even my old 95 SE cloth seats had adjustable lumbar. I'm guessing the 92 didn't. Rebuilding them would be nice, then you'd have something new. I've driven a wd21 across the country twice from Ontario to the Pacific Ocean. Last year being the most recent time. Had no complaints about the seats.

Can you PM Pezzy?

Are you expecting it to last as long as the 95 did? Sure they don't have the rust issues but the rest of it just doesn't seem to be built as well.

What the other guy said, you can't really repack them. Once and while I will jack up the rear end and check for play/smoothness. All you can really do without tearing them apart. I'm sure if I did that would just be inviting a @!*% storm to start.

Take the dizzy cap off and check to see that the rotor turns when you crank it. If it does possibly a distributor issue. If not the timing belt could have broke, though unlikely while sitting.

Sounds like the timing is off... Take it apart and count the teeth. Do not mess with the distributor unless you removed it or adjusted it previously otherwise. If it is in the factory location it will be the belt causing the issue.

Changed the oil... First oil change interval complete with the relocation kit on and no leaks. Probably can easily extend it to 7 or 8000km instead of 5. The oil was almost like new when draining.

Literally makes no difference. Takes a little clutter out of the engine bay but that is about it.

99% of the time the starter is not bad on these. It's either the ignition switch like you found, or the contacts at the battery/starter.

I used the old timing belt as a strap wrench, and used an impact to loosen them. Luckily I had tools around that made it easy. Never had to do it without one.

Put some silicone spray or something on the hose so it slides on easier. I also put mine in boiling water to make it more pliable. Make sure the aluminum ends on the pipes are clean so no chance of leaks with the new hose.

Yep. This is what it looks like with all covers off: http://www.clubfrontier.org/forums/attachments/f46/74945d1393699080-bypass-hose-replacement-v6-1393699078803.jpg

Mine has 275,000 miles on it with no issues. I'm sure its lack of maintenance from previous owners.

It could be something completely different, like swaybar links.

Oh you're doing the 2wd swap... Never mind I have no experience with that.

If you look down directly beside the distributor, you can see the hose. It is possible to change it without removing everything again. Just remove the bracket the ac belt and pulley are on. You can then access both clamps. It's tight but doable. Honestly it is hard to fskc up the waterpump install on these, so you probably did it right, and it is just the bypass hose.