adamzan

Changed u-joints in the rear driveshaft. They were the original Nissan ones. 23 years old, not bad.

You mean you want to trade the nail biting please don't run me over for some bliss? Haha. I have a supercharged Xterra as my DD and I would love to have the same engine in the pathfinder. It would be perfect.

I've had 5 wd21 pathfinders and still haven't killed any door handles in almost 15 years of driving them. Must be luck.

Aftermarket bull@!*% strikes again! These trucks are tanks, I'd take used oem over aftermarket.

You could have gotten air back there when you changed the master? Try clamping the flex lines one at a time with some vice grips with hose on it and see which corner is the issue? I remember this happening to me a long time ago and I had the calipers on backwards lol. There is an L and R on them. Also have you tried bleeding in the order the FSM says to? It's actually LR RR ABS RF LF. Most cars the bleed order is RR as it's the furthest from the master, but on our trucks the lines are on the passenger frame rail which makes the drivers rear the furthest if you think about it.

For something that would leave me stranded I would not rely on a zip tie lol.

Any updates?

Sent you a PM.

You could just manually cycle the abs by applying power to the pump thing on the frame. Now I remember this issue, it wasn't my truck but another member in Toronto. I remember something about the pump and air trapped inside.

You have the worst luck! Crappy aftermarket parts strike again...

I think I had this happen before. I ended up gravity bleeding the system and it was better. But the thing is the booster will kind of mind fskc you after getting used to pumping with the truck off. If you're sure there is no air, and all the soft lines are good, then I would just drive it for a bit and see what happens. Do you have drums or disk in the back?

Those tended to last about 6 months to a year on mine. Sure they're lifetime warranty but I hated changing them every season. The issue is the boots don't seal that well, and they crack/fall off. I literally ran one with no boot for a few months. The old ones were better. Now I just buy acdelco or raybestos.

Good luck! I hate having to pass emissions but I get why. Pisses me off when people just remove it all and pollute more... I did the JDM engine swap on 1995 but I used the US/Canada intake plenum and EGR and what not. Mine passes emissions with ease here in Ontario. And i'm rocking the 23 year old factory cat.

You've never worked on any old volkswagens then... These are miles ahead. You might what to get the cat converter checked. If it's that old it may just be time to replace it.

Yours is a 92. Maybe it was never there on that year. I'm just going off of what my 1994 has. Could be somewhere else.

The abs box is under some metal cover you need to unbolt first... at least for me it is. Take the drivers seat out and check again!

If you haven't done so, buy a new belt, don't reuse the old one. The new one will have marks on it and make it easier to install. As Slart said, 40 teeth between the cam dimples and 43 between the drivers side cam and the crank dimples.

You will need: Xterra trans (obviously) Torque converter from Xterra trans (most places include this but make sure) If it is from a supercharged you'll need the flywheel as well Need to reuse the r50 sub-harness as it is the proper length Some extra vacuum line for the vent hoses It is plug and play. I have an 02 or 04 SC xterra transmission in my 1994 pathfinder. Has been in there since 2013.

Apparently it is the spray pattern that is different. I know some have mixed without issue. But if you can use the same ones, I would.

It is under the drivers seat.

Imgur is the current go-to. I'm working on hosting pics on my own server...

99% of the time it's that sensor. It is expensive for sure! I fixed the abs light on my 95 by bleeding the brakes and flushing the fluid. I am not sure how that fixed it but the light never came back. It had been intermittent for a year. My 94 I just unplugged the ABS controller which shut the light off.

My 4wd light hasn't worked since I swapped the transmission... Perhaps I should revisit this.

What about the o2 sensor? Unplug it and see if the truck runs better.

It must have been knocking or making some kind of noise though? Now you have me paranoid about driving my 275k mile pathy cross country in July.