5523Pathfinder

Ok, this got me thinking. I thought I saw a jerrycan holder on AC's site. Has anybody ever bought this? If they did how did it mount on? I ask for those without a welder and may lack mechanical know how to DIY. This is it.. http://www.4x4parts.com/public_html/shop/s...664183a3d24.jpg Better be nice for $65!

As a mechanic at a dealership (yeah, two hits in one ), yeah there are some bad wrenches out there. If you know someone who knows a good mechanic, ask some questions. I dont tell everyone to come see me. I have told people how to do it themselves many-a-time. Just do some research before you take it anywhere. Oh, and looking at it from the other side, I have seen plenty of people who have attemped repairs themselves and severly screwed up their own car. I just say that working on cars is not for everybody. Thats why we create forums like this one so you can get ideas on how hard some projects are, and if its worth your time and money.

The 5spd allows more gear selection for different terrains. You do have to like driving it though. I love it in mine. On tougher hill climbs and mud, I stick it in 4WL and use 2nd gear. I go where I want. Plus, its fun to actually drive you truck(at least in my opinion!!). Good times....

Sorry, when I posted that at first, I thought faster than I could type . The proper order has been fixed.

Make sure you are bleeding the brakes correctly and in the right order. Start at the RR then LR, RF and LF. Going through that much fluid by the old pump and hold method, I would check for leaks also.

05+ Pathfinder - R51 05+ Xterra - N50 05+ Frontier - D50 04 + Armada - TA60 04 + Titan - A60 Just addin to the tread

How about Black, silver and red like the A-Team van. That would look cool!

The new banner is looking My-T-Fine! Good work!

IIRC, the 2wd transmissions are way easier! How much of your truck is tore down? Normally you have to remove the torsion bars to get the trans out, but 2wd you may not have to. Its actually pretty basic bolt in stuff if you are mechanically inclined. The starter and trans cooler lines are going to be the toughest part.

Try removing the cluster and then loosen then tighten the little brass screws holding the tach, speedo and printed circuit

You can check the EGR valve pretty easily. First off all, make sure the diaphram is not stuck. From underneath the valve, try to push up on the diaphram. IF it dont move and feels like it is all the way up, then the valve is stuck. If you are getting bad mileage, I bet the valve is either stuck open or the spring is weak and opening at the wrong time. The ignition code may mean your distributor is going bad. You may want to take the cap & rotor off and check for any rust, debris, or oil in the distributor.

Ok, here is one I learned when I first started wrenching. When doing a timing belt on any VG engine, before you pull the old belt off, set the cams up with the dimples on the gears to the dimples on the rear timing cover(AKA top dead center). Before or after removing the belt, mark over the dimples on the gears with some white touch-up paint, or colored marker(lighter the better). Now before you put the new belt on, if you use a nissan belt, there are 3 lines on the flat side of the belt. Take that same paint and mark on the side of the belt at those lines. After it dries, make sure the belt is pointed the right way with the arrows pointed to you. The marks on the belt will line up the marks on the cam. No counting belt teeth!

I usually let the mud sit on for a couple of days. I wear it like a badge of honor! But the fun gets old and I pressure wash just about everthing. I use the pressure washer at the dealership and take my time. Even go as far as to clean in the bumpers and on top of the gas tank. I also try to make sure there is no packed mud or whatever in the front suspension. Oh yeah, all the packed mud on the inside of the wheels. I even went so far as to remove the fender flares this summer and clean all the little nooks and crannies out. But I will say it goes quite a while between regular washes. Luckily there is also a lot of rain here and it helps the cleaning process.

Most traction control and abs systems will disable when using 4wd. I would pull of your wheels and look for any damage or anything abnormal and go from there. If your noise happens when you turn right, does the noise come from the right or left? Gotta get in there and look to see whats going on. Also, like I said, if you do have a wheel slipping and the light flashes then goes out, the system is working properly.

whats the weather been like where you are. Usually the slip light will come on when one wheel spins and the traction control kicks one. If it stays on for long periods of time, you may have a wheel sensor issue. Make sure your lift didnt damage or unplug any of the wheel speed sensors. The sensors read the tone ring that is attached on your brake rotor. Ive seen people get a brake job and some metal from the rotor stays on the sensor, its just a magnet inside. It depends on how worried you are about your safety. You may want to take it and get it checked. Oh, some larger wheel and tire sizes may also mess with it.

Changing the fluid is fine when its cold. Personally, I would do it somewhere warm, not outside. Drive it for a while to let the fluid warm or it will take forever to drain. Your brakes sound like you may have moisture(or air) in the system somewhere. What color is your brake fluid?(It can tell you alot as far as color) May need to bleed them all the way around. Oh yeah, will you please take all this cold weather back. We are freezing down here in Washington!

Eeek, seattle, that commute must have been fun. I should add that I traveled with traffic and did not drive stupidly. As in any bad weather, good judgement should be used. Slow and steady. I think maybe some driver skill may also be involed. I would hate for someone to install one and think that they are invincible. IF ANYONE INSTALLS A LOCKRIGHT, please make sure you take the time to learn how to drive your vehicle! It will feel very different, but you can get used to it and actually use it to your advantage!

Ok, I am using this thread to answer a question about how the Lockright locker performed in the snow and ice. I searched for the thread, but I couldnt find it. This morning here in Olympia, WA, we saw about a inch to 2 inches of snow. The problem was, it started as rain. The temp dropped to about 24 degrees at my house. This made for ice with a nice snow topping. Remembering that someone asked how the locker performed, I started on my way to work. Now, before I left, I aired my tires down to about 20psi for a better tread patch. I engauged my front hubs and used 4H. Pretty much all of the streets were covered with ice and I only went a max of 45mph. The locker acted better than I thought. I was able to drive fairly straight and didnt spin much when accelerating. It actually felt a lot like driving through mud for some strange reason. I did pop it into 2H at one point to see what would happened. Basicly, if you ever owned a rear wheel drive car with a LSD, its just like driving that. It wanted to kick sideways and spinout. In 4H, I jabbed the gas to see what would happen and it helped me stay straight for the most part. I felt very comfortable after that. Now I know this doesnt help the people who live in the areas who get deeper snow, but if we get more I will go out and do some more tests. Hope this helps someone!

Well not so much as a trans case heater. But modifying a oil pan heater might work if your that worried about it. First thing I would do is change the oil and go from there.

What brand and viscosity oil do you have in it now? Of course the 75-90 is going to take a while to loosen up. If its that cold, maybe put a heater on the trans case to warm the fluid? I just put Royal Purple in mine and it made a world of difference. Wasnt cheap though. Glad I got dealer discount!

Looks like somebody is showing off the Hill Decent Control! Or at least pushing the limits of it.

well, if the belt is stretched, it could be contacting the cover. It will transmit noise much like a fluttering sound. Maybe he is due for a new belt.

Ok, as it says in the motorsports catalog... R200A limited-slip assy/front Prior to installing either L/S assy, the listed LH lock nut(38227-2100) must be installed. 38420-T6073 L/S Assy (12mm) retail price- $856 Not the cheapest option, but its a whole unit. If you are so inclined, swaping from a z car might be a little cheaper.

Any abnormal running issues? Is there any color out of the exhaust? The O2 sensor will make your lights on the ecu flash when driving. If there is a problem with it, it may set a code. Check your codes.

Gotta love the chrome package!