5523Pathfinder

If there is a failure, it will hold the code. Get the code and lets see whats going on.

The installation instuctions are very well explained. The kit comes with everything you need and more probably. Ive installed many XM kits. All sound way better than regular radio, and little to no commercials.

I believe thats the antenna. Usually you get a adapter for it to fit. If you had a Bose system, you need to power the amps by using your amp turn on lead.

Where did you get the clutch? There is a alternative clutch kit from nissan. Its called a Key Value kit. Ive installed several and almost every customer complains of it feeling softer. On some i have adjusted the master cylinder pushrod and it helped. But, that may be your issue.

I was wondering about those replaceable MAF's. I just have not had the time to double check all the specs. I probably should of assumed that it would work. Most of the air flow meters in the v6's are very close. Cool for those guys who need them! Ive replaced several of them in Maximas. There are actually 2 different torx bits that I have ran into several times. But it does only take seconds to swap.

I put the little sticker that come with the belt on the core support. You may want to check for a sticker under the hood. I have also seen them on the upper cover, the hood, battery, intake maifold & the distributor cap cover. Look around & see what you can find, if anything.

I think its time for a sticky for people who have lockers to tell others about them. I think Pavelow nailed it.

Well most of the fuses wont have power until the ignition switch is turned on. And the clock doesnt display unit turned on, but it does keep time. If you dont have any lights, I would check the door switch. Either its not connected or not working properly.

Here is a pic of the alarm control unit. As you can see, its just on the inside of the heater duct. It may be covered under a piece of the carpet.

I dont believe there is a recommended change interval on the chain. Drive it until it has a problem. Heck, the only timing chain isses Ive ever had to deal with is in mainly the cars(Maxima, Sentra, and the big one, Altima).

Well, the best way to clean the airbox is either with a vacuum or remove it and blow it out. If you clean the screen, clean it backward so you dont push stuff toward the intake. You can disconnect the battery to clear the codes, but it may take up to 24 hours. If its fixed, it may clear itself after driving a couple of times.

You may also want to check the speedo pinion gear and check for wear or stripping. I just found one on a 97 QX4. Had to replace the pinion and drive gear. Also, they make you repair your airbags on a inspection before you pass? WTF, why does that matter? Oh, you probably have a cooked air bag control unit. Ive have done a ton of those. But you shoud be able to clear the code be pressing the door switch a bunch of times. I dont quite remember how to do it, but I think its on here somewhere. Do it just before your inspection and your golden.

If you accidentially damaged the MAF when you cleaned it, it will create a open and go into failsafe. Brake clean is too harsh to clean it with. A good electrical parts/contact cleaner would work best. Otherwise, its MAF time.

Ok, abs diagosis. Lets see if I can help. There is a small 5 wire, blue connector that should not be plugged into anything just behind the fuse panel under the dash. Usually it pulls out with the black DLC connector. You need to start the engine and ground terminal #3 to activate ABS self diagnosis. The wire shoud be a Red/green tracer. It is diagnally opposite of the empty pin. You ground it for a second and the light should flash. Count the flashes and let me know the number. If you have access to the factory manual, it describes how to do it all.

Thats awsome! You deserve it for the work you and your amigos have been doing!

Ok, the 03's are nice rigs. There are a few recalls you need to make sure where performed. There is one for the rear abs sensors. Water gets past the sensor and will corrode the inside of the axle and wipe out the bearing. The other is the fuel sending unit reseal or replacement. The connectors corrode and will cause a no start/no run issue. Mechanical wise, check for coolant leaks at the upper coolant pipe where it goes into the intake manifold, they like to leak. Also the t-stat bypass hose can split and leak. Other than that, there is not very many problems. Of course you can only hope the PO took care of the vehicle and used his warranty.

Ive seen this before. Check your airl flow meter for any debris. If you have the wire screen before the sensor, and there is stuff on it, replace the air flow meter. Now if there isnt anything on it, it may still be bad. What is happening is, the air flow meter is not reading the amount of air coming in properly. If its off just a little bit, it will throw everything else off. Ok, the bad part is that its not cheap. There is one other possibility, the cam timing sensors like to go out. There are two of them, one on each side. I would lean toward the airflow meter. Oh, there is also a issue with the fuel pump at times. I have only seen this once. This is from our ASIST computer.... "Customer Symptom: Engine bucks and skips while driving. Incident Description: Same. DTC P0171 (RIGHT, -B1), Fuel Injection System Function (Lean) stored in Engine Self-Diagnosis. Root Cause: Fuel pump. Service Procedure: Checked fuel pressure duringincident, system had low pressure. Checked harness connectors for loose fit. Electrical circuit to pump OK. Replaced fuel pump and cleared DTC codes to resolve."

You will probably have to heat the epoxy and try to pry it apart. Ive seen people do this, but you may damage the housing or lens. If you do get it apart, you may not be able to seal it all the way and it may leak.

Is your brake fluid to the max level?

Look behind the fuse panel near the trans control unit on the left under the dash. The flasher unit has 3 wires, Brown/white tracer(signal from hazard switch), Green(signal to hazard from flasher), and Black for ground. The connector itself is black.

Synthetic oils create less drag on moving parts, which means the engine doesnt have to work so hard. And if you removed 15lbs at each corner, thats 60lbs overall. Less weight equals less effort. Right on!

Performance Radiator makes very good replacements, and they dont kill your wallet.

Try putting it in the passenger door to deactivate it. If it works, then tear apart the other door and check the key switch.

PM me for a remider on Monday and Ill check. We have had some pretty wild weather up here in PNW and our computers have been down.

Try unplugging the control unit under the drivers seat for a few minutes. You should be able to run the vehicle with it unplugged. When mine went out last year while driving, I just unplugged it until I could replace it. Everything else worked fine. If you cant turn it off with the key fob, try both key cylinders lock and unlock. Or set off the alarm then immediatly put the key in the ignition and turn it to on. That should stop it.