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Everything posted by 5523Pathfinder
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There is a tsb to replace the rear o2 sensors and reprogram the ECM if your ecm part number is affected. Your factory 8 year, 80,000 mile ecm warranty might cover this. The number is NTB03-011. Its pretty common repair, and hey, it might be free! Your ecm has a part number that is printed on every printout from the scan tool at the dealer. Find out what yours is and look up the tsb.
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UPDATE: FIXED!**NEW VIDEO** Starting problem
5523Pathfinder replied to ninoj's topic in 96-2004 R50 Pathfinders
First what I would do is install the gauge and turn the key on. See how high gauge goes and write it down. Then, turn the key off and let it sit. See how fast it looses pressure. If it drops quickly from about 45psi to almost no pressure, you probably have a fuel pump bleeing back into the tank. If it does hold pressure, then start your engine. At idle, your fuel pressure should be 34psi with the pressure regulator vacuum line attached and 43psi with the vacuum line disconnected. The last thing you can do is turn on the key and bulid pressure, pinch both fuel feed and return lines and see if you loose pressure. If you do loose pressure you may have a injector sticking open or a regulator not holding pressure. Hope this helps. -
problem after running out of gas
5523Pathfinder replied to leojharris's topic in 90-95 WD21 Pathfinders
I am pretty sure the spark plugs are NGK V-power plugs. they are good plugs, nothing really gimmicky about them. The notch in them is noremal. They are not a Splitfire plug, I know that. -
UPDATE: FIXED!**NEW VIDEO** Starting problem
5523Pathfinder replied to ninoj's topic in 96-2004 R50 Pathfinders
Get a cheap fuel pressure gauge and check your fuel pressure when cranking, then after, while it sits. Maybe a fuel pump issue, maybe a pressure regulator issue. -
Maybe Nissan should retro a Patrol for the U.S.! Wouldnt that be nice!
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I just had to repack my left wheel bearings for squealing once and while. I had just replaced the belts and heard the noise a few days later. I tightened the belts but the noise would still happen. I noticed it would make the noise when I turned left more than right. While it was doing it after a left turn, I just shut the engine off and the noised continued. Stuck my head out the window and heard it from the left front. I found the outer bearing didnt have suffecient grease. I clean and inspected them. They were ok, so I repacked them probably with more grease than what is needed and the noise was gone!
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I did the Warn Swap about 2 months ago. You better get some bolts to replace the studs they give you just in case. Some guys never had a problem with the studs, but some have. I broke two just trying to torque them. Remember, you have to relocate the snap ring to the outer position. Your going to like the warns!
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You can check ebay or check your local dealer in the Nismo catalog, Ive seen them there.
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Maybe Katskin seat covers? I Know you can get a wide variety of colors and materials. You can also get something ebossed into them as well as different colored piping. Ive heard they are pretty nice, but never seen for myself. I am sure prices vary upon what you want done.
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To get the pulley off, I usually just take 2 prybars and get them behind the pully at about 4 o'clock and 8 o'clock positions then lightly pry them back and fourth and the pully will usually walk right off. I do leave the crank bolt on about 1 or 2 treads just to catch the pully just in case so I dont drop it. Putting it back on after the belt will not mess up your timing. I usually put the pulley back on with a impact gun(clean and apply wd40 or anti-sieze to treads and crank snout). You can tighten it to torque by stopping the flywheel by pulling the starter, put thats a PITA! If you have a strap wrench to wrap around the pulley, the tighten with a torque wrench. Good Luck!
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Make sure you are not touching the glass part of the bulb. The halogen bulbs are sensitve to anything touching the glass. The oils on your skin can leave a residue behind and take out the bulb.
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In the words of Mini Mike, "Pimpin, Pimpin, Pimpin!" Great info and good people, and oh yeah, PATHFINDERS! I know im addicted, the wife tells me so!
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Need a little help from the experts here!
5523Pathfinder replied to 01Pathy3.5LE's topic in The Garage
I dont think that there are aftermarket cat replacements for the 3.5L. The cats are located directly behind the exhaust manifold, they actually bolt together. I would imagine if there was a replacement, It would be talked about here. -
yep, magic tricks, thats funny To replace it, you do have to remove the intake and flip it upside down. It bolts on from underneath. The intake is easier to remove on the 3.3l thatn the3.0l. Enjoy!
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I believe its under the rear of the intake. To the right of #6 Spark plug. You can access the connector over the left valve cover near the firewall, but its not easy with big hands.
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Need a little help from the experts here!
5523Pathfinder replied to 01Pathy3.5LE's topic in The Garage
Ok, the ECM has been reprogrammed, thats good. The chance of both rear o2 sensors failing at the same time is pretty rare. Both cat converters going bad at the same time is pretty rare. It sounds like the MAF meter to me, but if the dealer wants to replace the cats, hey, let 'em. But I would definatly want to see the damaged cats if I were you. I understand its hard to listen to other people when they are not there and are not actually looking at your vehicle. I am just going on what I have seen. -
Need a little help from the experts here!
5523Pathfinder replied to 01Pathy3.5LE's topic in The Garage
Ok, easy one the dealer slamming, I work at one! You can check the cats if you want. A couple of hours removing the front pipes and you can inspect the backside of the cat material. The only way we condem cats is if they have broken material in the downpipe. You might want to question how they decided the cats were bad. If a good tech looked at your truck, he should be able to show you physically that they are bad. Your other option is to take it to a different dealer and have them check. If they find something different you might try and get your money back from the first place. I still think yoiur problem is electrical. See if you can get your ecm number from the dealer. It should be on the printout from the scan tool. Then check the TSB above to see if your ecm needs reprogramming -
Lets see, on my pathfinder I only have about 120,000 on it. My 1991 non-turbo 300zx had 189,000 on it when I sold it. At the shop I have seen several high mileage nissans. The one that sticks out the most is a 1995 Maxima that had 350,000 on the odometer, and odometer replacement sticker on the door sill that was recorded 101,000 miles. The biggest killer of any manufacture is lack of maintence. And some parts are just going to break no matter who makes the vehicle. Depending on what year pathfinder you get, I would say the most reliable engine has been the 3.5 & 4.0. But when it all comes down to it, I would drive a couple of different vehicles before you decide. Hope this helps your choice!
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Need a little help from the experts here!
5523Pathfinder replied to 01Pathy3.5LE's topic in The Garage
You can get the ecm reprogrammed for free, as per above, if you are under 80,000 miles. Gotta love warranty! The pending comment means it was checked with a generic scanner. Something has to fail twice(two trip logic) before the light will come on. Pending may mean it has only failed once. -
Need a little help from the experts here!
5523Pathfinder replied to 01Pathy3.5LE's topic in The Garage
I would definatly suspect the MAF. It reads how much air is going into the engine. The ECM takes in that info then watches how much oxygen is in the cats(via rear o2 sensor). If the ECM mistakes how much air is going in(ie: too much or too little), it will set rear o2 sensor codes. I usually check how much air is going by with a scan tool. Ive replaced the MAF for this problem many times on the newer 3.0 and 3.5's. Unfortunatly, they are like $500 I do believe. Remember the MAF affects both banks. -
Make sure you inspect the end of the plastic rope. If a piece broke, the new mast may not sit all the way inside of the motor. But then all you have to do is remove the motor, remove the cover nuts, split it in two and remove the broken piece.
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Electric issue (I guess) LOng Sorry
5523Pathfinder replied to zack1978's topic in 90-95 WD21 Pathfinders
Sound like your alt is not charging at higher rpms. The internal charging diode is failing. Go have it tested in or out of the truck! When its not charging it will drain your battery pretty quick. -
Bent wheel maybe? Tires way out of balance? Been wheelin and packed some mud in the wheel and throw it out of balance? any abonormal wear on the tires? A little more info might be helpful, but I would check these first. Oh yeah, as per recent postings, make sure you search first!
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The Terrano II is different than our pathys. The original terrano is basically a carbon copy of ours as I understand it.
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It really suprises me how some people can get so upset about helping other people. I joined this forum about 2 1/2 months ago and I have really enjoyed it. I work at a dealership and I get asked the same questions over and over all the time. But, I enjoy people getting excited about thier nissans. I searched different forums for almost a year before I modified my pathy. Then its been almost a year since then that i joined a few forums to help pass on knowledge. I am more that happy to give anyone any information that I know or have heard about. I believe thats what we all have in common, we want to help people who are enjoying the same stuff we are. Ok, I threw in my two cents, sorry if I cause any trouble with any questions or answers I have put up. Thanks for listening guys!
