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Everything posted by 5523Pathfinder
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I dont want to jinks myself, but I havent got s---k yet. I dont want to say the word so you do the math. Its still a good everyday driver. The locker gives me good traction in the rain instead of spinning a tire. If you drive it right, it wont bother you.
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I think my Lockright works great. Check the vid. You will see me go up a trail with my locker and a jeep without one go behind me. Its way cheaper than a air locker and works just as good. Like you have probably found, it can be noisey and a little unpredictable at times, but I love it.
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This photo was taken this summer. 3in suspension, 3in body, BFG M/T 33's on Ultra wheels, and lock right locker. Also added Pioneer cd player w/ XM radio, 12in JBL suboofer and Rockford Fosgate Punch amp, JWT pop charger, Red top Optima, relocated rear bumper, custom denting and evergreen pinstriping.
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I think there may be a motorsports lsd, or at least parts. I will check on friday.
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very possible. I know here, I have lost some mileage do to using the defroster, heater, wipers, stereo, rear defroster and god knows what else at the same time. Seriously, using the defroster is just like having the A/C on.
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Thanks 88! You da man! We all owe you a drink . I was acutally having to work at work. Glad its back!
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Maybe like the 240 guys using a 300ZX MAF or a Mustang MAF. I think the computer would need calibration for larger parameters though. Interesting! :gossip:
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The injectors themselves are one piece, only the o-rings are serviceable. I imagine someone somewhere has rebuilt them. Some places can clean them(Dr. Injector). The injectors sit inside the rail and are fed fuel. No replacement of the rail is necessary. Its one piece and pretty dependable. Just remember to replace the o-rings as rule of thumb.
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If you put your hand on top of the cap while its running, you will feel the vibration. Yeah, at 130k, your ready for timing belt #3!
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If your timing belt is wearing, it will transmit noise and vibration through the distributor. When was it changed last?
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Hey the new o-rings are cheap insurance if you ask me. I always replace them, I dont want to call the fire department when Im working on a car. Glad I could help.
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Which injectors are they? If they are the 1-3-5 injectors, they are a piece of cake. Unscrew the screws on the caps, be sure to use the right size screwdriver or you will strip them. If you do, use a pair of vicegrips or something to get them off. To get the injector out, you will need to twist them back and fourth while pullling on them to get them to pop out. This may not be the easiest thing to do. I have had to pry on them to get them out with two flatblade screwdrivers. Once they are out and ready to reinstall, hopefully you replaced the o-rings, coat them with a little engine oil. The oil will lubricate the seals and help them slide into place. Pushing down on them will usually get them in, but you may need to seat them by reinstalling the caps. The oil may cause a slight misfire upon startup, but it will go away after a few minutes. Be sure to check for leaks right away. If you need to replace the 2-4-6 injectors then the intake will need to come off. Hope that helps.
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The switch is on the center console by your E-brake. It has a little pic of a light on it. Mine is right next to the drivers seat. Remember, they may not work when you have you brights on.
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Uhh, your airbag system probably has a problem. Shutting the light off isnt fixing anything. Here is a free diagnosis, its the airbag control unit. It has a internal failure and the light will come back on again. It has to be the most common problem with the system. IF you dont care, thats cool, but if you do, that control unit is quite spendy (i.e about $450 IIRC). Or if you dont care, just unplug the control unit under the center console.
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I think the sensors and wiring might be a issue. Ive thought about installing a Xterra rear view mirror kit in mine. I would move the rear view mirror from the roof onto the glass though. But it has a built in compass and temp readout. The kit comes with all of the wiring and sensors. Ive actually installed a few and its pretty easy. I am not to sure of the price though. I was going to piece it together from warrantied kits that can still be used that are laying around at my work.
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Using your pic, stand on the left side of the vehicle in front. Look just over the top of the brake master cylinder. It is part of the IACV valve, right on the back of the intake. You will need a long phillips screwdriver to adjust it, well it makes it easier. Messing with any of the screws on the trottle body can cause damage.
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Pop the battery out of the key fob. It may be sending a signal without pushing the button. If you have a second, try to use it and not the other for a while.
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Try these.... http://www.spencerlowracing.com/products/ http://www.stillen.com/product_list.aspx?m...d=517&year=1997 http://www.jimwolftechnology.com/customer_results.asp There are others out there, just have to do some searching. Hope this helps.
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The VQ motors have thier own difficulty. The #4 plug is the hardest. The throttle body needs to be removed. Other than that the coils come out individually. They just take a little time. The plugs will last 100k.
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If we are not laughing and having fun, then what are we doing? We have a salesman from our jeep store that walks by our shop and yells "MOPAR" at least 2 times a day. He does it just to get a rise out of us nissan boys.
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No plugs were firing? Bad crank sensor, coil, transistor....oohh, ecm failure maybe? Check codes and post it.
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For a R50.... http://www.jimwolftechnology.com/customer_....asp?PartID=364 Thats what I installed on the Q.
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This is on my brothers QX4, But I installed the same thing. Note the silver support bracket. I had to bend mine a little to use a factory bolt hole. http://groups.msn.com/nissan4x4/mybothersq...oto&PhotoID=374 Here is for the filter assembly... http://www.stillen.com/product_detail.aspx?sku=402920 (previous link was incorrect and replaced)
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