5523Pathfinder

You can pinch the fuel lines as they go to the fuel rail. As someone else cranks, you can feel the fuel pulse. I would check for spark also. Any codes or check engine light? Oh, when you turn the key on, not start, can you hear the pump make a buzz sound for a few seconds?

Ouch! Insurance cover it?

We use BG products at my work. There is a in tank additive, one to clean the intake and valve and also one to run through injectors. Good products! Prices vary upon what you have done.

If your going to do some towing, check this out for some ideas... http://www.nissanperformancemag.com/projects/pathfinder.php

Well, I know the nissan belt is directional. The arrows point toward you when you put it on the the part numbers are not upside down. I would try and set it up the same. PCI, never heard of it. http://npora.ipbhost.com//index.php?act=At...=post&id=204051

Well a seal puller is best, but Ive used a small flatblade screwdriver to slide under the seal and push the screwdriver sideways and should pop the seal out. Be careful not to scratch the cam surface.

Yep, the interlock relay has caused plenty of problems. Should have two connectors plugging into it. I usally give it a tap with a screwdriver and they fire right up. It would not cause a slow crank though. IF thats the case, like 88 said, tighten those cables.

Well, according to its description, it should be very easy to install. Plugs right into the OBDII port under the dash. It sounds like it will give you realtime info on what the sensors are doing. Cant see much of a performance additive in it, but at least you will know what it going on!

Its the same pic thats in his profile. Lowrider, Nice by the way. Way to represent the nissans.

Im guessing you mean the left front axle? You may have the t-bars cranked too much. After the last time I replaced the cv boots, I dropped mine down a little to reduce the angle of the cv axle. If you broke out at the wheel, well, there could of been something not put together right, or who knows.

Cool, my question has been answered.

$205 for A/C's without zerks, $315 for superlift with zerks. When I installed the zerks on mine it only took about 15 minutes to drill, tap and install all of them. I guess someone will need to chime in here who has had a problem with the A/C arms. Still cant see paying a extra 100 bucks for zerks(that is if there are not other problems).

So are the upper arms from A/C not liked by too many? I like mine and havent had any major problems. I havent had any issues after I drilled and installed grease zerks. http://www.4x4parts.com/public_html/shop/i...3279bd5e1da0a45

Put the ECU into fail-safe by disconnecting the Air flow meter and see if it runs better. Check codes first, though.

I just found this while cruising on my ASIST computer. Maybe help answer some questions.... '90-'95 Pathfinder: Remaining fuel level specifications The following specifications reflects a range for the amount of fuel remaining in the tank when the gauge points to 'empty' and when the low fuel light is 'on': Gallons remaining when fuel level reads 'empty' approximately 1.5 to 2.4 Gallons remaining when low fuel light 'on'. approximately 3.0 to 3.2

Heres a idea from my ASIST computer... Symptoms: Speedometer has excessive needle vibration and noise at speeds above 50 mph. Speedometer, cable, and drive pinion might have been changed but did not affect the incident. Field fix: With the vehicle supported safely on a rack and the rearwheels off the ground remove the speedometer head and watch the speedometer cable while running the drive line at about the incident speed. If the cable is noisy and chattering in movement the nylon drive gear in the transfer case may have turned on the output shaft and become oval-shaped. If the gear is deformed, replace it.

Here's a pic of my rear(hahaha) . anyway, show us what is broken or has a problem.

Heres an idea for wheels if you like. This is what mine look like just after I installed the hubs last spring.

Swapped in or factory?

I want to say is was 93 when they starting using disc. Its so hit and miss as to which ones have it. If its an LE, i believe they all have it. The 94 I worked on yesterday did.

Sounds like the printed circuit may be getting power when its not supposed to. You may want to pull the cluster and check the back of it for any damage for debris.

Man, that would be insane! Even with the lifters removed(which are hydraulic), the cams are still not going to move. The tension is going to change continuesly. Thats why you set the tension as I described. The factory manual wants you to set the tension with a pull gauge, but 10 years of doing timing belts, this is the easiest way to do it. And, I have never heard of that procedure before! What a gigantic pain that would be.

Here's a little addition. This is what the timing belt tensioner position should look like once is has been properly set up.

Make sure you didnt pull one off for rear disc brakes and you dont have them. It wont work correctly. Like MZ said, did you bleed everything correctly and get the air out? Yeah, I wouldnt trust a J/Y master cylinder, unless you rebuilt it.

Is the feeling continual, or just for a second? When you push in the clutch, the throwout bearing contacts the pressure plate springs, but then rotation is stopped. When was the clutch replaced? Im thinking wear on the pressure plate springs.