5523Pathfinder

Tap on that inhibitor relay by the battery and see if it starts.

Ive walked out the crankshaft gear with the tow screwdrivers a lot of times. Yoiu have to get behind it and that may bend that little plate a little. You can flatten it when you get it out. Just walk it back and fourth at opposite angles. Otherwise, penetrant and heat will be needed.

The factory part number for the oil filter is 15208-55Y00. You can cross check it at any parts store.

That sounds like what my rig was doing. Read this... http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=13278

HKS used to make one, but is it ever spendy! Go custom and get what you want. Shouldnt cost more than $400.

Is that a glasspack or one of the new mufflers I see on TV? I was curious how the mufflers sound.

Welcome Back, Sir! As a non-member who I think has contributed to the forums as much as I possibly can, I am glad you had built this site. I have told many about it and hopefully helped many on here as well. It is nice to know another Pacific Northwesterner is alive and well. If there is anything I can help you with personally or mechanically, just let me know. Im in Olympia and would be happy to help. Thank you again for the site and cant wait to become a REAL member!

Well, you dont have to go into reverse to disengauge them. I have been rolling forward in nuetral and they would unlock. The problem lies with engauging them. The reason I got manual hubs is because I was on a trail in 2wd and got stuck on a muddy incline. I put it in 4lo and it didnt engauge the front. I rolled backward then forward to engauge them and the POW! They engauged without breaking anything but that was not good to do more than once. The manuals I lock in and walk away. No compliants of them at all. Well maybe having to replace the stupid weak studs they send with the hubs. Mine broke while installing them. Oh, and they look good to.

Remove some bulbs. I would start with where your accident took damage. It sounds like something is getting power when its not supposed to, possibly backfeeding through the ground. Removing bulbs will isolate the circuits and you can trace from there. Also make sure there is not a incorrect bulb installed creating this havoc.

Before I got my Pathfinder(Big Homie) I did only a small amount of off roading. I mostly went with my brother in his 73 chevy and some of his friends in jeeps. I borrowed a 98 'Finder from work to haul some family members around when my younger brother got back from a 6 month tour in the Navy. I took it out playing in the mud behind my older brothers house and I had a ton of fun. I got my rig out on a few light trails, but never took it anywhere hard. I knew I wanted to get a lift and bigger tires, but that was it. Then I went out with my older brother wheelin and some jeeps got stuck on a trial(thats my youtube vid). I knew then I needed to build something to verify I could get up that trail. I built up Big Homie and never looked back. I was going out like every weekend there for a while, but it was the same ol' trails. I finally got back to the trail that inspired me, and I kicked its muddy, rocky a$$! I was really proud that day! Now it seems like I am always getting some kind of info on how to improve what I have. Magazines, internet information, TV shows, other rigs & NPORA all help with what Big Homie might grow up and be someday. Me, I am and always will be a student of anything I am interested in. I watch what other people do and think things through when dealing with obstacles on the trail.

If you think its your starter, give it a tap with a long prybar, screwdriver or hammer while someone else trys to start it. Make sure its in neutral and the E-brake is on first. If it starts, yep starter. If not, listen to where the clicking is coming from.

Congrats! We will have to celebrate with a cold one!

Looking good! I like the different angle in the second pic, the truck looks all shiney and new! *Throws Mud*

How about this, before you take your vehicle in, put a small magnet on the trans pan. Any metal will stick to it. There is a magnet in some pans, but not all.

Pull the fuel pump fuse and crank it over with the valve cover removed. Oil should come to the top, but wont get all over like it would if it was running. Thats a tough call, maybe take a quick vid for more clarity.

I also see multiple O2 sensor connectors. See the red and blue wires on the right valve cover? Anyways, Im not going to argue. I was just making on observation. Its all good!

Thats a good point, my bad.

It sure looks like a Xterra to me, look at the cowl vents. Maybe a Froniter(or whatever the foregn one is). But thats a 3.3, definately.

Ok everybody, thought I would drop some knowledge on a issue I have been fighting on my pathfinder. It first started with a long crank and not starting for a few seconds, then turned key off, then on, then fired up. Then it was ok for a few days, then it got cold. I noticed on cold mornings this same thing would happen. A few days later I was driving down the street and I lost all power for about 3 seconds, then everything was fine. WTF, right! Anyways, I finally get it to do it at work and I check for codes, none set. So then its on to fuel and spark. I can hear the fuel pump buzzing. I check pressure and with the key on, it goes up to aobut 35 PSI, then drops to zero. Umm, thats not right, pressure should hold. So I remove my fuel pump and sending unit and I find small particles blocking the pickup. Tried to clean it, but to no evale, it didnt help. I replaced the pump and sending unit (The pump was getting noisey and my gas gauge was all over the place). Got it all running again and was fine for a few days. But then, it happened again. Here I go again. Now I find really weak spark. I swap the coil and transistor and its still hard to start or wont start at times. I knew my cap, rotor, plug wires, and spark plugs were all good. I remove the cap and rotor, then remove the cover for the crank sensor. What do I find? I find my distributor eating itself! Yes, the shaft bearing was coming loose and spreading aluminum shavings all over! Great, get a new distributor, install and great for a few days, then the hard starts happen again. At this point, as a professional technician, I want to shoot myself. I have absolutly no idea what could be causing this problem, but wiring came to mind. I checked and double checked every inch of my engine harness all the way to the ecu. I even thought to take the ECU out and put it in the freezer to duplicate a cold day. Nope, nothing. So, all of this has been happening over the course of almost a month. My biggest problem is that the problem is so intermittent. About a week ago, I was on my way to work, driving on I-5 and everthing enginewise, just shut off. I am coasting over to the shoulder dodging other cars and just as I get there, everthing comes back on. Ok, this is just wierd. I get to work and I try and think of any possible reason for all of this. I remembered about 6 months after I got Big Homie, he wouldnt start one night after work. I pulled it in and for the fuel pump not coming on. I found the fuel pump relay was cracked and broken on its backside. I replaced the relay and everything was good. Even replaced the cover for those relays being that it was missing. I go back to those relays and think "Everthing shutting off, then coming back on. Yeah, it could be a relay". So I notice the EGI relay right next to my shiney fuel pump relay. I pull it out and find a hairline crack in it on the side. I test it, and it works. Now, I dont like it when I find things like this, so I get a new relay. Wouldnt you know it, I havent had a problem since. I tore the relay apart and find a small amount of rust inside. I take the relay, shove it in the freezer, pull it out about a hour later, and sure as @!*%e, it dont work. I went back through the nissan manual, and I couldnt find anywhere about how that relay would effect things like that. I will say this, my truck has never run smoother and been more reliable. I imagine many will read this, and chances of it happening to someone else? Who knows! But I thought I would share. Or maybe you should go get a new relay and throw it in your rig.

Flush that transmission or drop the pan and see whats going on. Then, add that external trans cooler!

I think it would be eaiser to get two 5 gallon buckets, fill one with fluid, and use the other to drain. One hose would suck in the fluid, the other would spit it out. The level wont change much if you dont let it run dry.

I use a machine that hooks up inline on the trans line. The company we lease it from says it flushes 99% of the fluid out, including the torque converter. I love that machine, you can even watch the fluid change colors so you know whats going on. BG TransFlush, $149. Oh, and letting the trans get dry, not a very good idea in my book. If you need to clean your stock cooler, if you dont have a different one, you can get a can of Transmission Cooler Cleaner at most parts stores. Nissan dealers even stock them(well, at least mine does. We have to use it for warrenty repairs.) under a nissan part number. But the 1 bucket of fluid and one empty trick could work on the cheap, might get messy though.

Hmmm, well thats definately a 3.3 in a Xterra in that photo. I would wait to see it on a 3.0. I would think bolting on a supercharger from a 3.3 to a 3.0 would mechanically easy, but electrically, thats another story. I have pondered this for a while. Even aquired a supercharger from a Xterra to eventually play with.

Try a long #3 phillips. It has a bigger face and can grab the screw. Or try tapping on the end of the driver with a hammer, do this while turning. Just dont overdo it. A impact driver would be the next thing to try.

Anyone ever install a Flex-o-lite fan set up?