5523Pathfinder

The PAC in-line works pretty good. Ive installed several of those at the dealer. Pretty easy to install. Just need to make sure you have a preset or sat button on your radio. It sounds good too. Better than a Harmon-Kardon I-drive that I installed. Oh yeah, it wont charge your I-pod. There is a new connector that will charge it, I found it on ebay at Integral solutions (I hope thats right).

Maybe look in the readers rides thread for ideas.

Lookin good!

Onalaska? Thats just a quick 15minute trip on the freeway for me. If he responds I'd be willing to go check him out.

Does you fuel gauge work ok? There is a regulator on the back of the cluster that can fail. When it does, it usually take out both gauges(temp and fuel).

Did the valve move at all? It should bog dowm when opening. If it doesnt move at all, the EGR valve may be stuck open. It could cause several of your issues.

Hey, also check out the members rides section. You can see what everyone had don to their rigs and stuff. http://npora.ipbhost.com//index.php?showforum=53

Right on! Glad we could help!

Lookin pretty tough!

So, you are not changing the tensioner? Thats ok, depending upon mileage or if its been changed before. You problably had a little of the old belt material left over on the pulley. Everything in those pics looks ok. Did you verify all the timing marks are correct now that you have the belt on? Wait, you said you ran it correct? so it should be ok. Once you put it back together you should be ok.

Ok, the pics dont work. Use Photobucket or another pic hosting site. That is what works for me. How long are you trying to run it with it mosty torn down? It could walk a little unti you put it all back together. I have never seen a belt walk off. Between the guides and the covers it should stay put. You could tighten the tensioner a touch more if you like. Just not too tight, or it will make noise.

When my centerlink was pushed a little to far I had a similar issue. But my alignment was also off and I was all over the road! St. Paul, huh. I would love to go wheelin out there. My sister has 80 acres near Foley/St. Cloud. Makes me drool everytime I go out there. Just have to drive the Pathy out there to enjoy! Someday......

Sorry this has been such a pain. It happens. Well, first I was wondering if you can take a pic with camera or cell phone and post it so we can see what is goin on. My next concern is that you have the wrong belt. Some have a square tooth belt and others have a round tooth belt. Yours should be square tooth IIRC. The two guides, on either side of the crank gear, should keep everything aligned once the tension is set. You do not need the spring on the tensioner if you set it correctly. Keep posting and we can help!

Oh fun! First, good thing you are changing the oil on a regular interval. 5000k is about perfect. Do you know how much oil you are putting in? IIRC, it should be around 5 1/4 quarts. I would double check the oil level first. Second, I would try an listen to where the noise is coming from. I have replaced both the cam sensors before as well as the timing solenoids, so a part not working is not out of the question. There is a TSB about double checking the oil level, and verifiying proper oil pressure. A engine flush might help loosen up things if there is something sticking or gummed up. What I have found more than anything, is people taking thier vehicle to quick lube places and having the wrong amount of oil put in the vehicle. Do some poking around and let us know what you find. Oh, and if the solenoids need replacing, its actually pretty easy. 3 bolts and 1 connector and they are right on top of the engine.

The KA is a four cylinder engine. VG is a V-6. Now you know, and knowing is half the battle..............cant remember what the other half is.

Ok, so I have gotten a bunch of PM's and questions about TDC and aligning the cams. I did another timing belt today on a 98 and I figured I would post a few things to help. This pic is of the crank sprocket. You can see that I have not removed the lower timing cover yet. The crankshaft needs to be rotated clockwise to bring the keyway up to about the 11:00 position. Here you can see that the right cam sprocket is not in the correct position. I marked the dimples with white paint to show that they need to be aligned. Here I have turned the crankshaft to align the marks where they need to be. I have not taken off the timing belt yet! This is where the crankshaft should be after aligning the marks. This puts you at TDC. If you where 180 degrees out, the cam marks would not line up like in the prevous photo. Now, lets say you need to change a leaking cam seal. You went to remove the right cam sprocket and it moved. It would look something like this... No big deal. Continue removing parts and replace the seal. When you put it back together, rotate the cam clockwise and realign the marks. Hopefully this helps the people who need to see it before they take it apart.

Sounds like you have a Voltage regulator going out. Its on the back of the cluster and its 5 screws to replace it. It usually takes out the temp and fuel gauges when it goes bad.

I have XM and I love it. Its so nice to listen to a station and not cut to commercial. Im a fan of The Rhyme(ch65), Big Tracks (49) and the Eighties....wait for it......yep channel 8. I also like they have almost every baseball game on all season long. I have installed both XM and Sirius and they are basicly the same. I enjoy XM's layout and selection. Though, I put Sirius in my brothers Mazda and he has the Playboy channel. I dont! From what I hear, they are supposed to merge together at some point.

I dont recommend wheel spacers. They can create too may issues. Anyways, here are the specs on my wheels....

It too bad they stayed pretty general about the VG engine, or nissan for that matter. It was all pretty generic to me. Hopefully it will bet better and highlight some of the great aspects of our vehicles. I can hear the announcer now.......... "Tune in next week to see what happens! Same bat time! Same bat channel!"

Well, the 2nd set of pics is obviously your remote starter control unit. It had been tied into your factory harness and creating the issues that you are talking about. It sounds like it wants to control your power door locks so no one would steal it if is been autostarted. If you dont like it, just take it out. Just follow the wires from the control unit to where they tie in and disconnect them. You may have to do a little reconnecting to the factory wires as I assume it was spliced. Its not hard to reconnect stuff. You can get a cheap set of wire strippers/crimpers at any parts store. You can just crimp a butt-connector on the wires and you should be good to go. The best repair of course is to solder the wires back together and shrink wrap them. On our first pick, it looks like someone did some wiring repair. The green wire looks like it belongs to one of those pink/red connectors. The connector that has the corrosion on it, you can probably clean(not sure what it goes to at the moment). Battery cleaner or electrial contact cleaner will work just fine. I would look down into the body panel and make sure there are no plugs that are missing and letting in the water/dirt.

Actually, they are Ultra's! Hard to tell the difference though. Thats why I like them. I believe I paid about $90 a piece, IIRC.

I have nothing against the black rims, but.......CUSTOM!

What kind of noise is it? I know that if the oil level drops to a certian level(low) it can starve the vtc's and create noise. Matter of fact, I just recieved a TBS about it(06-023a). I have also seen the belt tensioner pulley bearings go bad and make noise. Might want to check around a little more to make sure.

Here you go. I will try and download some pictures to help out! CAUTION: When removing water pump assembly, be careful not to get coolant on drive belt. Water pump cannot be disassembled and should be replaced as a unit. After installing water pump, connect hose and clamp securely, then check for leaks using radiator cap tester. REMOVAL Remove undercover. Remove suspension member stay. Drain coolant from radiator. Remove radiator shrouds. Remove drive belts. Remove cooling fan. Remove water drain plug on water pump side of cylinder block. http://i169.photobucket.com/albums/u225/55.../waterpump2.gif Remove chain tensioner cover and water pump cover. http://i169.photobucket.com/albums/u225/55.../waterpump3.gif Pushing timing chain tensioner sleeve, apply a stopper pin so it does not return. Then remove the chain tensioner assembly. http://i169.photobucket.com/albums/u225/55.../waterpump4.gif Remove the 3 water pump fixing bolts. Secure a gap between water pump gear and timing chain, by turning crankshaft pulley 20°backwards. http://i169.photobucket.com/albums/u225/55.../waterpump5.gif Put M8 bolts to two water pump fixing bolt holes. http://i169.photobucket.com/albums/u225/55.../waterpump6.gif Tighten M8 bolts by turning half turn alternately until they reach timing chain rear case. In order to prevent damages to water pump or timing chain rear case, do not tighten one bolt continuously. Always turn each bolt half turn each time. Lift up water pump and remove it. When lifting up water pump, do not allow water pump gear to hit timing chain. INSPECTION http://i169.photobucket.com/albums/u225/55.../waterpump7.gif Check for badly rusted or corroded body assembly. Check for rough operation due to excessive end play. INSTALLATION http://i169.photobucket.com/albums/u225/55.../waterpump8.gif Apply engine oil and coolant to 0-rings as shown in the figure. http://i169.photobucket.com/albums/u225/55.../waterpump9.gif Install water pump. Do not allow cylinder block to nip O-rings when installing water pump. http://i169.photobucket.com/albums/u225/55...waterpump10.gif Before installing, remove all traces of liquid gasket from mating surface of water pump cover and chain tensioner cover using a scraper. Also remove traces of liquid gasket from mating surface of front cover. http://i169.photobucket.com/albums/u225/55...waterpump11.gif Apply a continuous bead of liquid gasket to mating surface of chain tensioner cover and water pump cover. http://i169.photobucket.com/albums/u225/55...waterpump12.gif Return the crankshaft pulley to its original position by turning it 20°forward. http://i169.photobucket.com/albums/u225/55...waterpump13.gif Install timing chain tensioner, then remove the stopper pin. When installing the timing chain tensioner, engine oil should be applied to the oil hole and tensioner. After starting engine, let idle for three minutes, then rev engine up to 3,000 rpm under no load to purge air from the high-pressure chamber of the chain tensioners. The engine may produce a rattling noise. This indicates that air still remains in the chamber and is not a matter of concern. Reinstall any parts removed in reverse order of removal.