5523Pathfinder

You need to remove the lower dash panel under the steering colum(K9's pic-#3). you may need to remove the steering colum cover(#2) first. Just a couple of phillps screws, then give a light tug. The lower panel is also just the lower screws, them give a tug toward the drivers seat. Then you can access the screws for the cluster bezel. Remove screws, pry down of top of bezel, then pull out.

Got it! Thanks!

Any dealer should be able to look up your Key Code by your vin number. Is there a possiblity that is has been replaced? You can remove the door panel, remove the key cylinder and take it to a locksmith.

See, these "mechanics" at the dealerships are the ones giving me a bad name. There a lot of older techs that cannot keep up with newer vehicles. I would never do a clutch without removing and turning the flyweel. Its only six bolts!!! As for the soft clutch feel, someone didnt bleed both bleeders in the system. When my slave went out, I pressurized the system to bleed the clutch system and it made a ton of difference. Now when I do a customers vehicle, thats what I do. Like at any repair facility, ask to see the broken parts, leak, damage or whatever. If they have a problem with doing so, go somewhere else.

Make sure the linkage is moving the park PAWL correctly. If you put it in first and it doesnt engauge first, either there is a control valve issue or someone missed a checkball. Tough to diag like what 88 said.

Im not going to say it looks good or bad. Why you would lower a 4wd is beyond me. If it was 2wd I might be cool with it. I do like the way a hardbody looks when lowered. Hmmm, I just dont know.

This link has what I looked up in the Motorsports catalog about the front lsd... http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=11845&hl=300z

If you have a 3.5, it is nothing like the 3.0 or 3.3. You dont need the little spark plug tool.

Dont worry, we still like you!

Try this one for starters. http://npora.ipbhost.com//index.php?showto...0&hl=tachometer The reason I say search is that some topics have been beaten like a whiteboy in the hood. Some, and I say some, members may not respond if you havent searched. No hard feelingss though. Kind of a normal process for new people. Oh yeah, did you intro yourself in the new members thread? It helps with hellos.

I would do some searching on here, its a pretty common problem. A easy repair would be to remove the cluster assembly, loosen then tighten all of the little brass screws that hold the gauges and printed circuit. Its worth a shot instead of paying for a new tach.

Here are some tips from our ASIST computer. Maybe they can help... Symptoms: Whenever the ignition key is on, the ABS light remains on. No codes are stored in self-diagnosis. Pin 12 at the ABS control unit has no power (power supply from ignition relay #2). The 'L' wire at ignition relay #2 has 0 voltage with the key on. Field fix: The 'L' wire is powered from a 20a fuse in the fuse box (7th from the right, bottom row). This fuse had voltage at both sides when probed with a test light, but the 'L' wire terminal contact for the fuse was spread. Pin 12 at the ABS control unit has battery voltage after tightening the fuse terminal, and ABS light operation returned to normal. See page BR-34 of the '94 Truck/ Pathfinder service manual for ABS system preliminary checks. Symptoms: Anti-lock brake system (ABS) light on dash stays on with engine running. Self-diagnosis showed no trouble codes. Field fix: While checking fuse for ABS system, found there was no power at the 'L' wire, location 303M (ignition relay no. 2). Traced wire to fuse box, and found the (-) side fuse terminal was not making contact with the fuse. Repaired fuse terminal to resolve incident. Other than those helping you, it sounds like a wiring issue. Make sure the ABS control unit is plugged in properly. Also check the wiring to the rear ABS actuator.

Backfiring? Does it have spark? Timing belt fail? Make sure the distributor is turning by hand cranking the engine. If ok, crank and check for spark.

You may want to get a long phillips screwdriver and check the cover screws. They come loose and can create a leak. To save you some time and money, just tighten them and clean the oil up. Otherwise, the passenger side valve cover is fairly easy, the drivers side is the bad one.

Ok, I guess what Im not seeing here is what engine you have. In 2001, you should have a 3.5l. The spark plug procedure is like that in the link. A couple of extensions, pliers, 10mm socket to remove the bolts holding the coils and the plug socket is all you need. Getting the coils out can be a little fun. The engine harness can get in the way on the passenger side. Just remove the bolts on the support bracket pull the harness back and it helps with access. You dont need to remove the throttle body to change #4. I usally just remove the Idle Air contol motor just below the throttle body(phillips screwdriver). The screws can be a pain sometimes, just use patience. They are a 105k spark plug if your wondering.

So I did the 3+3 and 33's. First of all the truck looks awsome. There is no other pathys around that look like it(I like to be different). Now, for function..Off road there is plenty of clearance without getting too tippy. On road, it is a daily driver, so gas mileage sucks, a few pops and squeaks. But once again, it looks good. I get compliments from Jeep guys now and again. That much change makes the pathy look grown up. Other than that, lost a centerlink, CV boot and exhaust hanger. It would be nice to be able to just bolt up some sliders and a ARB without modifying for the bodylift. Oh well, I still like it!

Yep the sizing is different. Also, the hub size is different also. I always liked the rims off of the supercharged Xterra/Frontier. I was going to get a set before I lifted.

Ooooh, I like it!

Sounds like you got water in the ecu. Remove it, set is somewhere dry and static free, remove the cover and let sit for a while. I have seen people soak them, let them dry and they worked, luckily. Otherwise, dry up the water in the vehicle and dry any connectors that may have got water in them.

Actually, it allows you to start the engine without pushing in the clutch. Its best to be done in neutral. Just turn the ignition on, push the button, then start the engine. Oh, and yes, you will move if its in gear.

I guess it depends upon how much you are going to use it. In my job, I bought a scan tool from Matco. I got a killer deal on it, but normally its really expensive. I can look at a lot of different voltages and such to help the repair process. Some tools will only do engine codes, some will do more like Airbag, ABS, CAN/LAN systems and other contol modules that can create codes. You might want to look on Ebay or Craigslist in your area for a good deal. Or go cheap and visit the local parts store and see what they have. Oh, mine does connect to the computer if needed. There are updates that you can purchase also(software downloads). It also runs circles around the Snapon scanner the rest of the guys use in the shop.

Into which gear are you having trouble with? I know some people have a hard time from 4lo to 4hi because the move the stick too slow. Maybe a lubricant issue?

Maybe a vacuum leak? If they are compensating with more fuel, then air has to be getting in somewhere.

I dont know if anyone has tried, but spencer low racing makes headers for the 3.3 in the xterras and frontiers. Maybe its worth a call. www.spencerlowracing.com

Well arent you lucky, you are in my neck of the woods now. I work at the nissan dealer and I do side work! I will be more than happy to help you out. PM me and let me know if you would like to get together. And if you are courious, my pathfinder is always parked right out front of the dealer.