5523Pathfinder

The jeep Cherokee is FWD too!

http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/topic/12828-how-to-change-your-timing-belt/ See post #7

First of all, Welcome! So the engine cranks over, but doesn't start? Or the engine doesn't crank and you hear a spinning noise?

Sounds like a bad ground possibly. Got back to the tail light and check how much voltage is at the power wire and at the ground wire for the tail lamp socket. You will need to do this with the lights on. If there is voltage on the ground side, something is wrong. Also, double check that the right bulb is installed and not damaged or anything.

They might, if you ask. They rent tools, so anything is possible.

Order one for a 94 maxima, with a SOHC engine. I just put one in myself. All you have to do is swap the pulleys. Everything else is plug and play

Something similar happened to mine a few years ago. Ended up being the ECCS relay(damage that I didn't know about+moisture=failed relay. It's in the right fender relay bank. Oh, when it doesn't start, does it crank over or just click? Manual or auto trans?

Time, money and metal. You have them, you can make it work.

Here ya go... http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/topic/12828-how-to-change-your-timing-belt/

Depends on the wear. Inner? Outer? Center? How's your alignment? Has the rear diff been service at all?

Well, just because you asked.... Bumpers, yes. ARB style, no. Tube bumpers with a winch plate would be sweet. Tube, stinger, whatever you want to call it. Like trailgear makes for toyota. Not so much weight and cost would be less. Oh, and a coil sas kit(no leafs). Again, just cause you asked.

Permatex orange(hi-temp silicone), pretty much same as factory.

As far as the converters, what happens is that they begin to crumble, or a screw makes it through the cylinder and embeds itself into the cat, and it no longer works properly. In doing this, the o2 sensors read incorrectly. They tend to fatten up the mixture and wash the cylinders, loosing compression. Usually the giveaway is that the oil smells like fuel. Yes, I've have done hundreds of Altima and sentra motors for this same problem. I have also replaced several cats on G35's who collapsed and created the same issue( replacing the cats usually fixed it). On those, the PVC system is built into the valve cover gaskets and they would stick open and suck the oil down. Replaced the valves over gaskets, spark plugs and performed a induction service and got them to reseal the rings and stop oil consumption. I know it sucks, but ya gotta take some things apart and inspect.

Yes, the work, but not very bright. I was going to run them for a few days and hope for some fog to see how they do. Nice clean white light though.

Installed LED fog light bulbs. Well, the jury is still out as far as how bright and useful they are

Sounds like you need to pull the intake yourself and check those power valve screws. If the were loose, the original guy should of checked for damage to the intake itself. Kind sounds like damage to the cat converter to me. Being when you perform the reset and everything works fine for a few, something is telling the computer to do something it's not supposed to. No codes tells me something mechanically failed. You could pull the plugs and do a compression check to see of the rings are worn(May also need a leak down test). If they were low, you could put a small amount of ATF down the cylinders to help reseat the rings. Me? I'd pull the intak and check the screws myself, then pull the cats and inspect them to see if the are coming apart.

I can tell you Jim's radiator didn't just pop because it was plastic. That cooling system was in very poor shape when I worked on it. I had to flush that system 3 times before it was mostly clean. It had the wrong water/coolant mixture in it for a long time and degraded the entire system. If my crystal ball would get repaired at the shop, I would of probably replaced it back then. That poor truck was treated very poorly before Jim got it back. Anyway, proper maintenance will keep any radiator alive. 50/50 coolant mix is key. The bleeder is on top of the intake, behind the throttle body a few inches. It's a 10mm bolt with a small copper washer under it. With the system filled and engine not running, remove the bolt and washer until you get a solid stream of coolant mix coming out of the hole. Keep adding coolant mix if nothing comes out. In some cases, the hole can get plugged. Use a small screwdriver to clear the hole. Put the bolt back in(with the washer) and tighten down. Start it up, turn the heat on and fan to speed 3, top off the coolant and when you feel good heat from the vents you should be good to go. Oh, hopefully they put a new radiator cap with your new radiator! Please be careful when the system is hot!

You need the male and female connectors for each? I have a tub of connectors that I have cut off of harnesses over the years

Installed 90 amp maxima alternator today after my original alternator finally died.

Yeah, frame rot usually starts in the rear, but can be found just about anywhere since there are multiple drain holes in the frame, rust tends to sped from there. Salt doesn't care, it's hungry! The front suspension is IFS, but has a torsion bar setup, not a coil spring. Cut it all out and start over. Several SAS swaps have been performed with leaf springs and coil spring/link setup. Honestly, I think you may want to consider a Explorer. Find one with a V8 and you will have a heck of a start. If you subscribe to 4wheeler, they did an article a few months ago about what to look for, how to modify, ect, to help you modify for what you want to do. Matter of fact, here it is... http://www.fourwheeler.com/how-to/131-1306-how-to-buy-a-used-explorer/

Well, first thing I will say, is that if you have money and time, anything can be done. That whole package would be the way to go. Of course, you are going to run into numerous fit and clearance issues. V8's are a tight fit into the pathfinders engine bay, but if you rip everything out, you will know what to keep and what not. I see your in Utah, do they use salt on the roads there? Pathfinder frames have been known to rot out was well over time. Many members have had to let their vehicles go due to this. Of course, many things can be done to help prevent continual rust issues. Axles would be next. Rear axle is tough, but for how much power you want to out down, you are going to be pushing the limits. Front axle, well, you might as well do a SAS and get it over with. This well help give you room for the engine and transmission. Not that the front axles are weak, but it will implode the first time you put the hammer down in 4wd. Of course, it will take all custom mounts for everything. Good luck with endeavor and keep us informed on how it all goes.

Good luck man! Hope it all goes smooth! And once you get to the States, Welcome!

So, I'm taking my stepdaughter to a band/ orchestra regional meet, and as we are waking up to the hotel it's being held at, there is a white 2013 pathfinder under the lights sat the main entry, and I gotta say, it looked sexy. Yeah, not a off roader, but it looked damn good next to the the other vehicles around it.

The improved version are turbo studs from a 300zx. I can't remember the thread pitch at the moment.