denisb

I agree. If all is 100% and your grounds are all good, nothing touching your vehicle to ground it to anything, you'll probably be safe. But all it takes is a bad ground on your welder and something grounding further down the line that's hooked up to your computer and that voltage will find the shortest distance back to ground. You're investment, your call. Denis

I agree with Simon. Also when you say no oil leak, do you mean no visible leak on the ground, or no visible oil leak around common gaskets like valve covers and such. If you get leaky valve cover gaskets you might not see oil on the ground because the manifolds will burn most of it when driving and the will probaly only leak when the engine is running. Denis

License plate marker?!?!?

My guess is a loose connection either at the bulb socket itself or at the cluster harness (where the harness plugs into the Gauges in the back). Although I've seen bulbs be interminent odds are if it was a bulb it would most likely be out all the time.

Short of dissassembling the butterfly completely. Maybe try to lube the butterfly shaft at the two entry points of the air intake. Might be some gunk in there that's making it stick.

My lines had gotten cut/worn where they go thru the radiator frame.

This is if you have auto hubs........ If you drive in 2wd and it clicks, when coming to a stop, does it clunck right before you get stopped? If so you probably have a sticking or bad hub clutch on the oposite side.

Very well done. Nice wheels man! I think you should add a NPORA decal on your rear wind defflector also.

Sorry. Yeah tranny if there's still grinding with the Tcase in neutral and transfer case if no grinding. 88 Has a point to it could be in your front dferential specialy if you have auto hubs. They are bad for causing grinding or whizzing noises when they go bad.

Put your transfer case in neutral and then put your rig in drive. If it's grinding it's probably your transfer case. If it's not then your probably looking transfer case. By puting your TC in neutral your tranny should be spinning free as if your rear wheels are off the ground while your TC is not moving.

Sounds like it might be a transfer case problem. Possibly linkage or such. If your T-case would not be engaging all the way and ending up in neutral

Personally. Too big and too much plastic to be in the same category as the older Pathys. Not to say that I wouldn't mind having one, it's just hard to imagine it on the trails.

Usually you would of noticed your RPMs go up gradually as your tranny would have emptied. But tranny fluids on the pan is not a good sign. Put it up on a hoist and see exactly where the fluid is coming from. If it's a line and you stopped before you burnt your tranny you might still stand a chance. If something broke and went through the side of the tranny......You might be SOL.

Yeah I was thinking ABS also.

Maybe you should've bought a WD21. They sure used to make them good back in the days. Sorry, I had to poke.

Welcome back Jim good to see you're on the way back up the hill. Hopping that the pathy will be on the upswing soon too. Denis

Nice, so does that mean we've heard from the ghost of Mr. Jim?!?!?!?!?

Mr. Jim? who's that???????? Oh yeah.......that's right the guy who got us all hooked on NPORA. It will certainly be good to here from him again.

They actually don't dissengage totally in reverse. It's a momentary dissengage. Hence the cluck. Think of your hubs as having a "neutral", for the sake of layman term, in between forward and reverse. For that 1/4 turn or so that when the wheel changes direction the hub goes from engaged to dissengaged to engaged in the other direction. Yes they do suck, but they will engage in both directions. Denis

Check and make sure your exhaust system is not hitting anywheres. Sometime this can sound like something different than a rattle. You said they addressed your stud issue. They might have moved something just enough so that it's rubbing up against something. Try shaking your exhaust system and see if it hits anywhere (when it's cold ofcourse ) It could also be that you had a gasket that was ready to go and when they moved your exhaust around to fik your mahifold problem they moved it around just enough to make it leak. Deins

It definatevely sounds like a Torque converter chatter. This usually happens when your torque converter locks up when you reach cruising highway speed. If this didn't happen in a tranny, the torque would constantly be slipping somewhat and it would wear out quicker. As per your description it looks like your tranny oil went down all of a sudden. Check around your tranny cooler and the hoses going back to your tranny for leaks. The tranny cooler is located in front of your radiator and looks like a smaller radiator. Follow the two hoses going back to your tranny and make sure there is nothing leaking along the way. Once you've eliminated leaks, fill with fluid (Recomended tranny fluid in the shop manual says ATF 4 or Dextron equivalent). This is done thru the dipstick tube. leave the truck running and just add a bit at a time, too much is no better. wait 4-5 minutes and check again, sometimes it will take a while for the oil to make it down the tube in the tranny. Once you've check it twice and it remains at the proper level take it for a test drive and see. If you still have the chatter, then replace oil and filter. Depending when the last oil change was on your tranny, you might want to consider this anyway.

What do you mean by really low? This could be your problem. If it's low enough for your pump to starve from not enough oil, maybe your torque converter isn't locking up properly. It says hot and cold on your dip stick I'm pretty sure. If not it should be checked hot. And I agree with meangreen that since your in there you may as well change the filter. The opinion on this varies on who you ask (since it's a metal screen technicaly it can be cleaned), but I just figure by replacing the filter you get an new filter gasket that makes for a newer, better seal.

I agree 100% with 88. If 1 hub locks up it makes the other try to engage making the whizzing sound and the clunck you hear is the hub engaging, dissengaging as you almost get stoped. Mine did this right before I burnt the clutch in one side. Not recomended to use your rig this way. Denis

They will have to take the the trany pan off to clean or change the filter. The filter is a metal screen that can actually be cleaned, replacing the filter will ensure a new gasket on the filter which might not be a bad idea. Then there is going to be some residue in the pan (hopfully if you have a good mechanic he will clean this also). Mine actually had quit a bit. This was the reason for my tranny not operating correctly, it was clogging my filter limiting the oil pressure in my tranny. As for damdge done to the tranny. It's hard to tell, each tranny will react different. Your best bet is to see if your tranny works better after this. If so, drive it for a couple of weeeks and see if your problem starts coming back. If it doesn't you probably have many miles left. I did the pan drop and oil change bit because it was cheaper than what the tranny shop was suggesting (a rebuilt tranny) and it worked. I got lucky, not every one does but it was worth the $200 or so that I spent to do this. Denis

My fluids looked perfectly red, but when you'd wipe the dipstick, if you looked realy close there was a grayish deposit on the dipstick (probably torque converter fillings).