denisb

Plugged nozzle, broken/plugged hose hose. The WD21s use the same bottle for both front and back and if you hear the pump and there's fluids in the tank, chances are there is a clog or a break along the way. I beleive the nozzle spray thingy (I know very technical jarggin) can be unscrewed with a special tool (or a couple of small picks if you want to improvise).

Do you sometime get hard starts or dragging starts? Could be a bad ground or battery.

As a side note for your rear wiper....the hatch won't open when the wiper is on, so if your rear wiper is "stuck" on, it might be your rear hatch issue.

First off you don't mention year. This will only fix the guages up to and not including 95.....I beleive . Typically your gauges will drop instead of spiking. This is because the voltage regulator fails as it heats and you get no voltage to the gauges therefore the needle drops. The spiking would suggest more of a spike in voltage which is non-typical of a voltage regulator going bad (not to say it couldn't happen). So long story short.....possible, yet not probable. This being said....the fix is a couple of dollars plus at worst an hour of your time. It might still be worth a try.

I went much more creative.....I added the initial of my family name!

Wow....I got to stop drinking when I post .....Thanks for picking that up Simon.

31s will be tight on factory setup. Depending on how much sag you have from your torsion bars and rear springs, you could have issues. You will most probably have rubbing if you do any extreme 4wheeling even if your susoension is not sagging. I'm guessing a 2" lift would get you 32s comfortably.......33s......might be tight.

I'd take mine off for highway use all the time and it wasn't so bad. Of course I didn't have anything on the roof to cause turbulance.

You mention replacing your calipers with another set (not being sure they were good) and then going back to your old set. Let's say for arguments sake both set were seized, you would not be able to bleed properly and you would probably see a mushy if not no existent pedal. Make sure none of your pins (front or rear calipers) are seized. Also I had one of my rear lines go bad once and had to take my master cylinder appart (seals and all), reasemble and then it bench bled perfect. Not sure if my bypass valve had seized when the line broke, but I could not get a good peddal before and when I re-bled the master and then re-bled the brakes everything panned out.....maybe just weird gremlins....

According to manual (since I've never bled ABS). Disconnect ground and actuator connector from ABS unit with ignition off. Then bleed in the following order. 1 load sensing valve (if equipped) 2 left rear 3 right rear 4 left front 5 right front 6 Rear ABS Actuator The rest is normal bleeding. If you went thru those steps and still have problem......then someone else needds to pipe in since I am not sure.

Well a guy I know had a pan under his truck and would pour the oil back in his truck every day to top it off. Saves from getting the asphalt driveway tore up and saves on oil purchase.

I was following a car in the drive thru one day and their back window did the same. It was winter and the rear defrost was on, probably had a pressure point in it and just couldn't take the difference in heat.

I sense that someone had "apple juice" in his Corn Flakes instead of milk this morning!

Now that's funny right there I don't care what you say !

Easy or we'll sick our killer polar bears on you!!!!!!!

If it's got the temp and gas going freaky it could be regulator, but if only one of the two is acting up, it's not the regulator since it's the same regulator that runs both.

I did bend my own lines. If you buy the rolled stuff for the longer leghts (a little more flexible) you can actually bend them by hand without a bender. Be careful not to bend to sharp of an angle, because if you kink them it's not good. Take a 1 foot leght and practice first. It won't be as clean a job as the rolled stuff never ends up perfectly straight, but you can run it on the inside of the frame where it can't be seen easily. Zip-tie it to existing gas line and you're good to go.

I did most of mine about a year ago, but I can't remember. I know they aren't double flanged and I ended up using the same fittings over again as the fittings weren't in to bad a shape, the main lines anyway.

Most car parts stores will sell such kits or some will even bend/flare your lines for you if you bring them dimensions.

For short lenghts (usually the ones that are now already rubber) bradded should be fine. I have however heard people have problems using bradded instead of solid on long runs (spongy brakes mostly and not necissarily just on Pathys). If you do opt to install bradded I would recomend not to skimp on cost and go with high end lines. They will probably give you less trouble. Just my 2 cents.

Sounds right. The heater hoses do run up to the firewall on the passenger side. If it's got a sweet smell and is green or water looking, I would say it is coolant.

I know I've sang this song before, but mine did the same thing and a mechanic friend of mine convinced me to drop the tranny pan, put clean oil and clean the filter and it worked......Still cheaper than $2400 to try.

Mine had broken at the wire and I managed to fix it....but it was a biatch to fix. First off there's not a whole lot of room for a soldering gun in there, secondly it's hard to see with your hands in that small cramped space. If you have lots of perceverance and patience it is possible tho.

On the 90 it's on the passenger side, mid way up the transfer case and maybe a little towards the front of the transfer case(if memory serves me right). There's not a whole lot of room in between it and the body, but with a flashlight you should be able to see if the wires are broken off the switch.

I had a wire break right at the transfer case on the 4x4 switch. It was a PITA to solder back on, but I managed to get it on without having to replace the switch. If the 4x4 works, then it's definately in the wiring along the way.