denisb

I had a 97 Taurus that was rusted way worst than my 90 Pathy was. I know they should have designed a little different, but name me an almost 20 year old car that has no rust or no design flaw. From what I saw from my Pathy I would not be scared to buy one tomorrow (89-95 anyway). Personaly I think they are very well built, easy to work on and I plan on owning another one in the future as a trail vehicle. Denis

Looks like one had a fair bit of contact with a solid object......rock maybe The second one seems to have been built for someone atissipating one such thing by reinforcing the bottom of it........just a guess tho.

Not sure if the terrano counterpart is included in the factory manual, but this guy has the manual in a bunch of pdf format files. Needs a little searching but you might be able to find it this way. http://www.ileana.net/91-pathfinder/

How much of a difference in height from stock? Could be the shocks are actually topping out (hitting their upmost extension) due to aftermarket shocks not being as long?!?!?!? Just thinking out loud.....don't mind the grinding noise or the burning smell

I've used it for trannys and high mileage motors with fairly good results but maybe it might be a tad to agressive of a stop slip oil for an LSD (with the LSD clutches and all). I think you pretty much answered your own question tho when you asked about the clicking in the rear end. Unless you have lockers....LSD rear ends should not click.

I used a small flat screw driver and tapped it around to tighten mine last time. Not the perfect tool, but it worked in a pinch. As for grease, I would use regular wheelbearing grease or high pressure grease. CV grease might not be heavy enough for a bearing. Someone might be able to ad to this as I'm not 100% sure. Denis

First off you will need to remove at least one end off the shaft to put your boot on. Secondly. How long is long? Although you can clean them a little when they're taken apart to install the boots, it's possible that you've already started damaging them if you've been running without the boots. For the job that's involved in taking them out you might want to consider replacing the shafts completely. If you decide to try and salvage them I would try a penetrating oil to get most of the grease out, or if you have a parts washer, then dry them good and use the grease that comes with the boots. I would probably even add a little more since what they give you is supposed to be added to what is usually left on the CV. Denis

Not sure about your 97, but the 90-95 front bearing could be adjusted. Just had to take the hub off, remove two set screws that hold the retainer nut from turning (this looks like round washers with 10 or 12 oles around it), adjust the retainer nut. Don't tighten too much tho, just enough to take up the loose and so the wheel turns freely. Definately I would repack if it's not a sealed bearing.

When the voltage goes to somewheres below 10 volts the ECU starts to act up causing the gauges to go a little freaky.

88 is right. Something seems top have gone south in the charging system. Check your belts and stuff, but it looks like you might be in the market for a new alternator.

Before you flush make sure to check and see that your slide pins are not seized and are moving freely. I've seen stuck slide pins give a mushy pedal.

Ok I guess technically a shock could seize in it's downward most position and hold the suspension down making it look like a front end sag. But Sammy has said.....the rig would ride like hell. I'm assuming the Junkyard shock might have been seized either in the accident or because it sat for a while. Most of the shocks I've seen go bad on a vehicle due to wear leak and just go limp.

Shocks will not make it lean. They're sole purpose is to put resistance against the wheel when if it forced up or down by a bump. This makes for better road contact and less bounce from the spring. A bad shock would only make one side of your rig more bouncy on one side.

Depending on what shape the rig is in. It could also be a broken or rusted out body mount. I had broken a front body mount on mine and it made it look like I had a weak torsion bar in the front.

Wow! 6 grands. is he quoting a new motor? Seems a little steep for a bone yard motor swap. I think you need to go see your mechanic and tell him to sharpen his pencil. You should be able to get better price if you check around. Can it be done at home? Chances are, if you're asking the question you will need help from someone who's done it before, but definatively possible. Denis

Sorry to hear your bad luck. Hope your pathy goes well. Hydro lock is fairly easy to do unfortunately. Imagine your piston at it's up most position and how much water it would take to fill that cavity(1cup....maybe 2 ). Water does not compress so well so if you have more than that amount of water go through your air intake you can be at risk. Sometimes fast through water holes is cool to watch, but not so cool on motors. Anyone doing any amount of water crossings should definately consider a snorkel......and I mean for their rig and not themselves Denis

Yeah and if we could get enough interest, who knows Nissan might even be interested in some sponsership......it would be a hell of an add for them.

Although it would be too far for me and technicaly I don't own a Pathy anymore , it would be cool to see such an event. Did you ever think of doing a cross country marathon from town to town or state to state over a couple month period. This could nean people that don't have the time off or money could join in when NPORA comes close enough to join, and the rich NPORA members could follow for a longer period. Could call it the Coming To A Town Near You NPORA Jamboree or something. Denis

I think the rear and front are the same price and the front is twice the lenght, so with a little creativity, you might be able to buy one front and make two rears. Just a thought on how to save a couple of bucks......Oh and I'm talking for the 90-95 Pathys. Denis

I agree with JJ. The best thing to try is some really good penetrating oil and every day add more and open and close it a few times. They are pretty comon to seize up. Mine was to the point were I was moving the truck when I had to open it and with a bit of persistance it got to work OK....not perfect but at least i didn't have to dig my heels in the ground to open it.

Nice pics! If I can only give a little advice......I beleive you require a snorkel for your vehicle Denis

Well if you weren't out wheeling, there would be no pressure on these explaining that nothing got f'd on the treads or holes. As for why.....did you replace your CV shaft lately? Matbe it wasn't torqued right? If not ..... Gremlins ?

If you try break cleaner make sure there's no plastic molding around tho. As for scrappers, you can buy a decal removal kit at UAP/NAPA. They have scour wheels that are safe for paint and plastic razor blades.

Actually park would probably work....kinda.... if the vehicle isn't moving the park pin should hold the tranny stoped and since the T-case parts won't be moving there shouldn't be any grinding.......from the T-case at least. And this is why I said Kinda. You will probably get grinding from your park pin trying to lock your fly wheel. The whole reason behind your grinding is that even in neutral a tranny still spins.....slowly and almost no torque, but it will a bit. So basically when the T-case is in neutral, the tranny might start spinning. So let's say you accidently pull your rig in D while the T-case is in neutral, it might take a couple of seconds for your T-case to slow the tranny down enough not to grind. Hope this clears things up and I didn't confuse you to much Denis

I still stick to what I was telling you in your first post. I think it's a tranny chatter when the torque converter locks up. Mine had the same symptoms you are describing and I drove it till it stoped (not recomended). I then decided to replace the tranny oil and clean the filter just to see. It got it going again and the chatter was gone. It has aprox 30,000 KM since and still going. I wouldn't do a flush though, just drop the oil and change the filter and see. I'm not giving you garranties, but it's cheaper than 2Gs for a tranny. As for your smell. My vote is for the famous Pathy rusted floor symptom. Check and see if your floor is hot on the drrivers side (if an American Pathy), just where the side of your accelerator foot would rest on the tranny well. Denis