denisb

Don't mind him, Pezzy's rubbing off on him Welcome to the forum, nice to see another NBer come on board!

I don't get stuck and use the front hooks to pull out Jeeps and see their owners faces when they get dragged across the mud holes OK, ok, I've been known to get stuck and I usually use a hitch receiver with a loop welded on. Denis

I agree with GhostPath.....to some extent. It sounds like they would have taken the light/socket out, but why would there be no silk screening in the light insert?!?!?I don't think they're removable. Maybe someone with a 92 could confirm that this is actually the spot for the check engine. If it is, then you need to investigate further and fix the prob. Specially if you get a check engine light on.

Glad to see you "got er done"

Not sure if the throttle body had the same issue as the WD-21s, but it could be your problem. Is it just when you use your cruise? You should notice some sticking even without the cruise, if this is your issue. On a side note, you can always try to clean it and see. It's not that big of a job. Denis

Hmmm........ I haven't seen him on here either. He had made a ghost apearance 4-5 months ago and seems to have dissapeared as quick as he had apeared. His old sites starting to dissapear are almost like seeing your old homestead falling apart when everybody has moved out. Kinda gives you a sense of loosing the memories and good times of the good old days........hopfully this site will survive. Denis

Try clamping them in a vise and using the loose in the CV to jerk them off. If that doesn't work, you can use a plasti hammer or a peice of wood and a regular hammer taking care not to chip the CV, to "persuade it off. I had one of mine that came off by hand and the other one I almost had to break off. Hope this helps. Denis

That should be the tranny cooler in front of the rad.

Warn would be my suggestion also.

If you have a shop that you can trust...maybe, but most shops will say it's toast please insert $2000 in our till before we proceed. I blew a tranny hose on my tranny cooler before and fluid was gushing. As 88 said, if no fluid is coming out, your pump is probably toast. Just remember that a clogged filter will also make it look like a bad pump restricting flow. Denis

Mine did the same thing (without the pop though) and a friend convinced me to clean the filter and replace the oil in the tranny (the filter was plug pretty good and the oil had a fair bit of sludge). I did so with a little pesimism, but to my surprise it worked, it even got rid of my chatter. It was a lot cheaper than dropping the tranny to check the torque or replace the tranny altogether. Just drop the pan and check to see how clogged the filter is. I was able to drop the pan without taking the Y pipe out, but I also used a 4 foot "persuader" with one guy pulling while I slid the pan out. At this point it's only going to cost you your time and it might just save you from buying a tranny. Oh and BTW there's been about 25K miles put on the tranny so far with no hint of quiting. Denis

If you use rivets, you can also use a realy thick pitch tar like roof cement in between the floor and the patch to seal all bare metal(the one that comes in a caulking type tube). This will prevent water from geting in and will slow if not stop rust. Denis

My guess is good penetrating oil. But not just in the lock, in the latch where the lock pin goes in. Denis

Gremlins! I hate those! It's possible just the tranny ECU reset got rid of the glitch. Better than having to buy a new ECU.

Did you check fuses? If not it could be a bad Tranny ECU.

Very Nice!.........for a two door that is

Nice work! Holder + Bumper + tire carrier looks pretty sweet!

Sorry it took some time to reply I was packing my suitcase....what kind of weather are you having down there so I know what to pack If you saw 1 long and 10 short, my manual says it's an all ok code. Now all ok does not mean you don't have a problem, it just means you don't have a proble that the ECU is seeing. I've got a someone's scaned copy of the shop manual, I'll see how big the Auto Tranny section is. I might be able to seend it to you, it has a lot of trouble shooting info in it. I won't be able to check until tomorrow when I get to work, but If I've got it, I'll get your e-mail address and send it to you. Denis

I just got another brainstorm.......you're from Australia right? I've always wanted to visit Australia. I'm only the cost of a plane ticket away from test driving your Pathy to trouble shoot the sympthoms . Sounds like a win win situation to me. Denis

The light on the botton is the right one and it does look like the O/D is not engaging. The switch you tare talking about, did you try it in both position? It also changes the shift points as it is used for when more power is needed such as towing. At this point I'm more or less trying to brainstorm, as it is pretty hard to do a lot more troubleshooting withoout actually being there.

The easiest way is probably to disconnect the battery terminal and keep the brakes pressed for a couple of secs to make sure all voltage has been drained. The ECU should then reprogram itself as your driving. The rig might run a little crapy for a couple of miles while everything resets. As 88 pointed out the Kickdown switch is a throtle position switch. It can be adjusted and if it's faulty it could be seeing the throtle as being "mashed" or pushed down causing the tranny to have a higher shift patern. This is why I was saying you would probably get a harder shift. To absolutely positively make sure that the O/D is not engaging and that it's not a torque lock up issue, try this. When it seems to either drop down or not go into O/D, hit your O/D button on the stick and see if it actually drops a gear. If it does it sounds lick a lock up issue. If it doesn't, then your O/D definately doesn't engage. Denis

3500 rpms seem a little high in O/D at 55mph, but like Simon said, when the torque converter locks up on the highway it almost feels like another gear change and it will unlock as soon as you press the accelerator the least little bit. Now if the kickdown switch, tranny computer or your shift solnoid were bad, it might not shift into O/D a soon as it should. You would probably get a hard shift when it would shift tho. You can try reseting the tranny ECU to see if it helps, never know sometimes those Gremlins are sneaking around in there. I beleive it's located in the left rear panel next to the speaker. You mentioned the oil was changed.....you did mean the tranny oil right? Oh and how many miles/Km on the rig.

Auto trannys can be a pain to diagnose. First off it would be better (since we're hearing your troubles via chat forum) if we could get a little more info. Is it happening on a regular basis (daily, weekly, every couple of minutes, etc)? Does it seem to shift hard? When you're driving agressively or not? When was the last tranny flush/oil change? Things like that. Denis

Did you notice it's more when your pushing down the accelerator? If so, it's possible the kick down switch is a little tempermental or needs adjustment. Assuming we're talking about the W21 model (86-95). Not sure about the newer ones. Denis