denisb

Too bad you're not closer to NB. Can't you find someone that does frame work? I got mine fixed for around $250. Denis

"I have a problem with my DRL module. My question is, can you disconnect it, and still have headlights? Rather than get another one, I'd rather just disconnect, if my headlights will still work. If so, where is it?" The DRL is behind the battery on the passenger side. You can probably rewire to bypass if you'd have the wiring diagram. If your problem is your one of your driving lights not working all the time, it is possible to fix. It's usualy just a cold solder on one of the relays in the unit. Denis

Just a thought... I've never heard of a vehical using noticably more gas because of more electrical draw on the alternator... His shock connectors aren't even hooked up, No current draw there. Denis

"there was no difference in ride suspension, but it does burn a heck of alot more gas when it's on sport for some reason)... thx" ????????????? That's odd!!!!!

Try replacing the fluids. If you didn't hear any noises as anything breaking and it happened out of the blue without warning, it could be a clogged filter. The filter does not have to be clogged much, just enough to reduce the fluid pressure. The mechanic that got mine going again told me these trannies are touchy when it comes to oil pressure. It seems there's a sharp breakoff from when enough pressure becomes not enough and besides, what can it cost? A filter and fluids. The filter/gasket set is $75 and 5 liters of tranny oil. Better than jumping out and paying 2Gs for a rebuit tranny. Denis

Is it a Canadian model? If so are your daytime running lights working fine? It could be a problem in the DRL unit. They are problemsome. I've never heard them short out. But you never know. Denis

It will just work slower, but your biggest problem might not be voltage as much as power, power window motors are geared down so they have more power. What do you mean by linear actuators?

Maybe someone added a turbo in there when you weren't looking If so, let me know, I'll go park mine there for a week or so. I don't mind wistling. Denis

Mine had a broken wire off the differential switch. It's quite hard to reach and a pain to change/fix. You might be able to see if there is a broken wire off the switch by looking under your rig, on the right hand side of the transfer case, kinda mid to top. If you can't see if the wires are broken, the bulb is probably easier to check than the switch. Although it could be a burnt bulb it would surprise me. These bulbs have crazy lifespans. It's the same type bulbs used in your cluster illumination and unless you always have your rig on 4x4 (which is possible) odds are your cluster was on longer than your 4x4 light. I don't have time tonight, but if you want I can try to take a picture with my digital and e-mail it to you tomorrow. Denis

232k on mine! Denis

almost sounds like your oil pump is loosing it's prime at higher RPMs. Could be a bad or cloged screen. Have your oil changes been done at regular 3000 mile intervals? You could drop your oil pan and check the pump for clogs or do an engine flush, install an oil pressure guauge and see what kinda oil pressure you get. Denis

Maybe he doesn't want this to happen. http://www.muchosucko.com/video-rx7crash.html

East coast Canada. Not many people 4wheel with Pathys here. Mostly Jeeps.......sorry didn't mean to use the four letter word Denis

Not sure about the Nissan key pinout, but my older fords (the ones without the security key) you could actually cut two keys on the same. The key cuts were as follow every second cut was for the doors and the other cuts were for the ignition. Basically my key would only work in one direction, but it saved me from having two keys on my key ring. What I'm getting at is. Check with an actual locksmith (not home depot or such, cause when I'd go to see them to cut two keys on one they'd just argue it wouldn't work even if I knew it would). If Nissan works the same way, he might be able to incorporate your ignition to your door locks. Denis

Sounds like something shorting out in the door switch. Try disconnecting it and see if it goes away.

Aren't carb/throttle body backfires usually due to bad timing? maybe check the timing.

Sounds like your tranny is working in power mode for some reason. Try reseting your tranny computer. Disconnect your battery and tap your brake to disscharge any voltage left in the system, this will reset your computer. If this doesn't work, you can try replacing the filter and fluids in the tranny. I did this to mine last week when I thought I had lost my tranny and it fixed my problem. My fluids where still looking good (not low or burnt looking). Denis

If you can receive a pdf file, I can send you a little write up I did on this fix. It's 406kb in size. If your gauges look like the one in the writeup (same layout) it should work for you. Just PM me and I'll e-mail it to you. Denis

I've got a shop manual for the 88. I can send you the electrical part of the heater/ac if you're interested. It doesn't have values for the resistor pack, but if you're handy with a schematic, I'm sure it can be of help. If you want it PM me or e-mail me and I can scan it at work and e-mail it to you. Denis

What kind of electrical problems are we talking about here?

Hey Chapter, I had aproblem with my DRL. Mine was that one of my driving lights would only work interminently. I never noticed if it affected my high beams though. If it is the same problem, I did take it apart and fix it. It was only a cold solder on one of the relays inside. The unit was a B!+ch to open and I managed to break one of the clips that hold the case together :furious: . I used silicone and electrical tape to put it back together. I figured the extra time it would work for would buy me time to find a used one. Guess what, it's been a year and it's still working. Denis

That would be the whole float assembly in the tank yes. Could be a loose connection, half broken wire or a sticking float.

It's on the back side of the instrument cluster, but if your temp gauge works, I'd be doubtfull that this is the problem. Looks more like a sending unit issue.

What year, it might be your voltage regulator that's starting to go flaky. If your temp gauge is also acting up, it's definately your regulator going flaky.

Before you replace the alternator, check your voltage with a digital meter, just in case your meter in your cluster is bad. I would say it's your alternator, but if not your going to kick yourself after spending a couple of hours changing your alternator and spending unnecissary cash. Yust check your voltage at an easy test point like your lighter plug.