denisb

I know the switch on the passenger door is good. I haven't checked the drivers door yet. I was hopping to get a wiring diagram before I take the drivers door apart, so that if I need to go deeper into the wiring I can do it while the door skin is off. When I get some free time (yeah right!), I'm going to take a deeper look at it. I'm sure I can figure it out without the diagram, just would've been easier.

Mine actually doesn't go up or down. But if humidity makes it slow you can grease the rails inside the doors. There's an quick fix and a good fix. Both require greasing the main track/slide for the window. The quick way is to spray WD-40 on them without taking the whole power window assembly off. The good fix is to take the window off (2 screws easier taken off if window is not all the way down) take the top and bottom screws for the rail/slide off (4 screws) and the motor screws off (3 screws). Unplug the P/Window connector and remove the whole rail/slide off, clean and lube with white lithium grease. Denis

I'm looking for the schematics for the power window wiring. My passenger window will only go down. I did manage to bring it back up using a 12 volt source, so I know my motor is fine. But it won't go up using either my drivers door control or my passenger doors control :confused: Denis

Nah, I usually keep the alcohol for myself.

Same problem with mine and Mookie is right. My vote is for control arm bushings. This effect will be increased with weight. Not that I would know, but lets say you were to have 4 people in the truck, be passing a Transport truck and hit a bump, you would probably find it quite harry. I bought them , just haven't replaced them yet. I guess it could be called pro......procrasti......ah, I'll look up that word in the dictionnary later Denis

Two of our NPORA gurues have once got together to do this project. Here it is. http://www.jimbennett.net/home_made_snorkel.htm Denis

Heading up Tuesday morning and I'm there till friday. I'm actually going to be in Mississagua, about two minutes from the airport. We sell slot machines and we're prepping a bunch for a couple of casinos aross Ontario. Our warehouse AC is on fritz so we're working without AC :furious: Maybe I should try to rent a Pathfinder that way we could compare how yours works compared to a stock one Later

Too bad I can't fit my Pathy in my suitcase. I'm going to be "at the center of the universe", as my fellow Toronto co-workers like to call it, next week. You could show me some trails in that area. I heard it was crazy hot this week, hope it cools of next week. At least during the day, so it's comfortable to work. Denis

You have to watch out when adjusting them though. If you back them off too much, you can damadge your CV knucles. This is the purpose of the stops. Denis

Yup the turning radius on Pathy's (and many other 4x4s) makes a 3 point turn seem like a 15 point turn. The noise is probably your stops rubbing aginst the metal, scary, but normal. I would say it's The Pathfinder's Call Of The Wild If this is the worst noise you hear while wheeling consider yourself lucky. Just watch the Jeep Liberty video someone posted on this site (can't remember what the title is). That's a sound you don't want to hear. Of course that's a truck you don't want to take off road. :o Denis

Gotta replace mine. They're sitting on the work bench, probably for a couple of months now. Just can't seem to find the courage to replace them. So many bad stories. Ah well some day I might just find the strenght to take away Pathy's dancing shoes, till then, off in the sunnset I go with a wiggle in my rear end. Denis

Should work fine. Some domestic models have a smaller center hole that can cause problems, but Yotas have the bigger hubs. BTW Welcome aboard Denis

I got mine at the stealers, only cost me something like $20. Boght it about two years ago. Denis

I also found a couple of smarties and some change :o . I wonder if it came with the pathy or if it's an option

It could be your tranny overheating or it could be your 4x4 lever boot is busted. Under the leather cover for the 4x4 shifter is a rubber boot, if this boot is thorn, it will get quite hot around the consol area. I replaced mine and it made a world of difference. Pretty easy to check, there should be two snaps that hold the bottom to the carpet. Just unsnap and check the status of the boot underneath. Denis

It's in the tire kit on mine too. :cool2:

This is not true. If it would never clog, it wouldn't filter. It is harder to clog, but give it time it will clog and even if it doesn't clog it can still reduce the flow, reducing pressure causing the tranny to act funny. Mine was acting funny and when I took the filter off it didn't look cloged, but when i cleaned it and put it back on my tranny started working instantly. So I bought a new filter kit (filter and gasket) and replaced them. Figured it couldn't hurt and it might not clog as quick since it was new. As far as the not flushing, my thinking on the reason behind not flushing if it has high mileage. Probably because, by flushing you are forcing presure through your tranny, possibly pushing some dirt through and past your filter. This dirt and small fillings might make your body valves/solnoids and other parts that move in tight spaces stick, due to the dirt/metal shaving getting wedged in. Denis

I had the exact same thing happen. My wife called me and said the truck would not move, no noise prior. Figured, crap my chatter finally caught up to me, the tranny's dead. The first tranny shop said I needed a $2000 rebuild, the second couldn't promise anything till they took the tranny off the truck :contract: Buddy of mine suggested replacing filter and gasket. Replaced filter and gasket on the tranny and it's been about 10,000 miles with no problem, it even cured the chater I had . Denis

The rusty flange was my problem. I replaced it (even if they told me it couldn't be done) and I haven't had any problems since. Denis

I took mine off with no problem. It's supposed to be a guard to stop mud and such from splashing on to your rotors. I find it just gets the mud wedged in there tighter if you do any amount of mudding. When it gets rusted, it will get weaker and probably cause rubbing problems. Just my opinion. Denis

Usualy the auto hubs will give a sound closer to a grinding noise and a pop at the end if they start to go bad. I doubt that they would be your problem. 98 Silverpathy might be going in the right direction though. The problem he is talking about is the brake dust cover though and not the auto hub dust cover (i beleive). If a rock gets wedged up behind there, it will sound awful. Worst than bad brakes and the noise won't go away when you hit the brakes. It might change pitch (higher lo lower or vise versa) if you go side to side when your driving. Take your wheel off and with a flashlight check between this plate and your brake disk. This is the plate that is behind your disk, sorta half moon in shape and towards the lower to back part of your brake assembly. Let us know the outcome, Denis

delavoie, Cool! A local. I'm from Barachois. We'll have to have a beer or something sometime. Denis

Hey delavoie, I see you have a NB plate. Where in NB are you located? Fellow NBer

I think it's a dealer item only. Just a hint though, if you buy one front one, it's twice as long as the back ones, but the same price. Buy the front and cut it in two. Denis

I removed mine twice off of my '90 without removing anything. There is one bolt on the back side that is hard to get at, but with gentle tapping I managed to wedge a small 1/4" socket between the cross member and the pan. I then had to pry my Y pipe down with a long pry to fit the pan out. It's a biatch, but it can be done.