denisb

Bushings can be bought and pressed out (for the 90ish model years at least). I bought them from UAP/NAPA for about $60 for a set of two. Thats why they're the steallers. Denis

Your friends at NPORA haven't heard from you in a while, hope to hear from you soon.

Ah the perfect I love you gift. A Pathfinder Welcome aboard Denis

Could be bad master cylinder.

If they want to charge you go somewhere else. It should be a 2 second check to see if they're leaking. Should almost be able to take a look at it in the parking lot. Denis

Yeah, same finger different hand............well for some people anyway . See, that's the advantage of one finger typing, you actually have to look were your fingers are going Denis

If it's leaking by the cat, it probably won't be covered under the 100k warranty. If you still have factory warranty however it might be covered under it. The 100k warranty is for the manifold leak at the head (broken studs) I beleive. Denis

Sorry Pezzy :sniff:

Well I sense that's the sarcasm part..........now where's the pics

Lotsa talk but no go! I'm starting to think this is an urban ledgend. I like the idea of Far Side Sarcasm tho :cool2:

Oooopsie! Thought the 94-95 was the same. Thanks for the correction. Denis

If they replaced the EGR valve with an after market, it could be. I replaced mine with an aftermarket and started noticing a higher oil consumption. I was talking to one of my friends who's a mechanic and he told me some aftermarket EGR valves didn't work right and I should try cleaning my OEM one. I did and my oil consumption went back down........hmmmm, weird. So in your case it's possible it didn't take much carbon to clog it???? Denis

I agree. Unlikely that a bad timing is going to give you bad idle, unless it's off by a lot and then you would get a rough idle, not a fluctuation. Buuuuutttt..........that timming belt has got to be replaced!!!!!! wow! 163K miles! Remeber these are intefference motors, which means if that belt breaks or the teeth wear or break off and that timming slips too far, your pistons will go crashing into your valves causing major if not irrepairable head, piston, cylinder damage. Deppending on which year Pathy you have, I beleive 88-95 are 60K miles recomended and I thought I saw someone post that the newer Pathys are 100k or 120K miles.

I second that!

It could also be a rock or rust that's stuck between your rotor and rotor shield. Very common problem, specialy after going four wheeling. Denis

Check for vacum leaks or dissconected too. My car had a simillar problem last week and a vacum hose had come undone. Denis

I work in the gaming industry, I used to work for a company that had coin operated jukebox like you see in bars. The most common problem I have encountered in fixing the CD players in them when they started skipping and then just capped out, was dirty laser reader. I have also fixed some old CD players by doing the same thing. It's a quick try, and it could save you from buying a new deck. Use a Q-tip. Wet it with water and dish soap (one drop in a cup of water). Dish soap is mild enough not to scuff the optics, but will remove grease, smoke, etc extremly well. Do not use alcohol however because alcohol over time will cloud optics. Do not rub the optic to hard and wipe it dry with a secound dry Q-tip. If you can see the shaft that the optic head slides on and you can get a bit of white lithium grease on it this might also help. (be very careful not to put grease any where else and don't put to much). I find a tooth pick works for this. I'm not saying this will work, but short of giving you an electronics trouble shooting course, this is the best I can help you to try to fix your CD player. Denis

Your welcome slick. Anything for a fellow NPORA member

It won't hurt either of the batteries. Just think of your car battery. Lets say you start your car in the morning (a fair disscharge) you drive for 15 minutes (it's pretty well charged) and you drive for 8 hours after that. There's no harm to your battery right? Same for your spare, it won't harm it. Your charging system (alternator) is made so it won't hurt your battery. Now if you were to add a couple more batteries, run them dead and try to recharge two or three batteries at a time with your alternator, I would be worried about your alternator. In your case, you have installed (I'm assuming the isolator thingie you are talking about is so the second battery doesn't disscharge). So worst case scenario, you are recharging a battery (same as you would if you went to the mall and left your lights on). If you're only using it for this trip a regular car battery will work but if you're going to use it a lot ,and there's going to be a lot of charging and disscharging, I would consider a deep cycle battery for the spare. Denis

Although a hit/bump could hurt your battery, here is a difference between one good bump and continuous vibrating and beating. The reason for gel batteries is for true off road enthusiastes/competitors.

I think the way you did it should work(kinda hard to say for sure without seeing your wiring). If the isolator thingy you are talking about is what I think it is, my dad had one on his RV. It will make it so that only the auxilary battery gets disscharged. This way if you have something on your aux. and forget it on, you can still start your vehicle and make it home. As far as not being safe. Your alternator won't struggle more to charge your dead aux. battery than it would to charge your main battery after you kill it and your battery will accept a continuous charge just the same as a regular car battery does. The only thing I would recomend is to get an RV or deep cycle battery for your aux. battery. A regular car battery will not last as long if it charges and disscharges a lot, where as an RV or deep cycle battery is made for constant charging and disscharging. Denis

ROFL!!!!!!!!!That is hillarious!!!!!!!!

If your gear shift works when you use the shift release botton it is not due to a tranny going bad. I'm not saying the rest of your problems aren't due to a bad tranny tho. Your shifting out of park issue could be anything from a bad brake switch to a bad shifter release solonoid. All your problems look like electrical possibility, so I would susspect electrical problem. Posibly a ground which could affect all of the problems described. Someone might have a better idea, this is just my think aloud brainstorming

They are used for handeling heavier loads (mostly). In laymen terms Picture a big heavy duty rubber balloon inside your coil spring that can be adjusted via air compressor. If the air is removed, your susspension returns to normal. If you inflate them, your susspension gets stiffer. But for a more technical explanation , check out this link. http://www.airliftcompany.com/ Denis

So basicaly I'm running about average gas mileage at 17 mpg and I've got 400,000km on my rig. This equals 250,000 miles. A barrel of crude makes aprox. 19.5 gallons of gas. If my calculations are right..........that's aprox. 756.9 barrels of crude -alcohol- WOW! Yes I do have to much time on my hands Denis