denisb

That's how mine came out. Try to get in between the two pieces so you can start ripping them appart. The whole sleeve should start slidding out once you get part way thru. I know one side on mine was way easier than the other. Denis

Yes that inner piece that you see that's about 1/16" thick needs to come out. We took an air hammer to take mine out. If you don't have an air hammer you can try a die grinder or a dremmel with a good cutting wheel to cut across the metal sleeve. Although you should try to damadge the arm the least you can, it isn't too crutial to the install of the new one. Denis

Make sure it's not mud in the wheels. Even if you used a pressure was it doesn't mean you got all the mud out. I've seen having to take the wheels right off the truck to clean them out good enough to stop the vibration. Also, if you have center caps/Hub caps take them of and clean inside those also. Bent rim, you would have to hit something pretty hard. Since you didn't mention hitting anything, I'm asuming you didn't hit anything that hard. I can't see a rotor getting warpped bad enough to cause a vibration without the brakes beeing applied. I would be willing to bet it's mud stuck somewhere. If it has a side to side on the wheel, you probably have a front wheel mud issue. So take both front wheels off and check the back side of the wheels. Most aluminum wheels have hollows where your spokes are. This is probably where you'll find the mud. Good luck and let us know. Denis

I've come back from the trails with my instrument panel lit up like a Xmas tree before. So far prssure wash and letting dry before turning on the Pathy has worked for me. Denis

I agree with Simon to some extent. I think (and I'm not 100% sure on this) that if your shaft is not thru your hub assembly the mud, water etc will be able to get to your front wheel beering via your hub assembly. So as long as you watch the elements and keep the front end dry you should be safe. Denis

Do you know something I don't?

Where you at? I have one that I was going to give away, but it kinda gets expensive to ship to the US. If you're in Canada or know a Shortcut to getting it shipped to you let me know. I don't mind giving it, I just don't want to pay to give it away Denis

hubs should not be hot, but the hubs beeing hot can be related to brakes overheating. The wiring sound sounds like your cltches in your hubs aren't dissengaging proberly. Could be a lack of librication in the mechanisms. I have greased mine before and if your fairly mechanically inclined it shouldn't be to big a job. Hopfully you didn't heat or ruin the clutches (if so, you will probablly notice when you pull off the hubs the clutches will be warpped) There might even be a pinned thread on this.

Not sure about the later models, but the tool they mentioned is included in the wheel removal kit under one of the reear seats on my 90. Denis

I'm with 88 on this one. Mine's done that when I was horsing around on the ice a couple of times. Turn the rig off then turn it back on, no harm done. I've also heard it called limp mode. I had the same reaction when it first happened to me. I thought I'd broke something in the tranny. Denis

You did check the fuse right? I don't think both headlights are on the same fuse. Denis

Actually the arms were easier to take off than the bushings themselves on mine.

Hey Simon, my DNRL was doing the same thing and I took the module apart and fixed it. It was just a cold solder. I'm in Ontario for two weeks for work, too bad I'm spending the weekend in Windsor and not Mississauga like I usually do, you could have brought it to our shop and I could've taken a look at it for you. Maybe next time I'm down I can give you a call and take a look at it. Denis

I did mine myself. They're pretty easy if you have a press and an air hammer. Even if it looks like yours are ready to fall off themselves, there is an outer metal steeve that is still inside you control arm. The bushing is made with an inner metal cylinder (where the bolt goes through) a mid rubber bushing (the piece you on the pics that looks offset) and an outer metal case/cylinder that fits tight inside the control arm. If you have an air chisel the outer part of the bushing can be pushed out or cut to ease the removal. I was lucky and had a press on hand to reinstal. Someone might have some tricks for reinstalling. Denis

First off the control arms should be prtty well centered on the bushing. By seeing more rubber on one side than the other, it leads me to beleive that the midle of the bushing (made of rubber on the ones shown) has come loose from the outer part of the bushing (made of metal). These are supposed to be fused together and after time rust and wear makes them break loose. Denis

Thanks Evan, I will keep your passes offer in mind and as I get closer to the dates I might just take you up on that offer. :contract: Denis

Yup, they're done. Those should be on there tight.

The cat is used for burning excess gasses that weren't burnt by the motor before exiting. Your rig will work fine without it, but if you live in an area that has high smog control (mostly big cities), you might not pass smog test if you remove it. In my area we need to get our vehicles safety inspected every year and the cat is one of the inspection cryteria, but a lot of garages look the other way since it is not an actual safety concern. Denis

So you have 3 scenario's with the hole in the bottle and what kinda results it produces...........You've been doing this how long?????? and have lost how many friends????????? We want videos!!!!!!! Another cool effect.....well maybe not as cool or dramatic as that one. You take a piece garden hose, slit it lenght wise so you can fit it in a 1/2" copper pipe and throw it in a fire. The colors are pretty cool. Kindof like an firey auroa boreallus.......and no one has to back away from the fire. Just don't roast weiners ormarshmallows at the same time.

^^^^^ ^^^^ I second that.

Find someone with a laser thermomoter and check the temperature before and after the cat to see how much difference in temperature there is. It should be fairly close in temperature. While your at it try before and after the muffler, it's highly unlikely the muffler would be clogged, but it could. You should also look for leaks around the area you feel the heat. Wait till your muffler has cooled (in the morning when your rigs been sitting all night) and when you first start it run your hand over the top of the pipe aproximateky where your floor gets warm. If it's a leak, you will feel air. If it's too hard to get at, have someone plug the muffler with their hand and listen for a leak. Good luck, Denis

^^^Mister glass half empty^^^^^ It would be a different paint job. Probably will end up costing you quite a bit if your rig isn't already olive green. My pathy is.......was........partially still is white (well the bottom is now Rock Guard black due to our marvoulous Canadian salted roads). I know that the Pathfinder white is pretty much the same as Tremclad white. It's great, you can keep a can in your tool box and clean up scratches right on the trail. Denis

Now Now K9sar be kind to us Canucks Yeah, I've done the BC side of the rockies before and it is beautiful. My supervisor says the Alberta side is even more spectacular, I guess I'll have to wait and see. I really wanted to go see the glaciers, but I guess they're closed at that time of year. Denis

Looks like I'll be visiting Calgary in November for work and I have a free couple of days between Nov 16th and 20th. Just wondering if anyone's got sugestions as to what to see. I'm thinking of doing the Calgary, Banff, Jasper, Edmonton and back to Calgary loop. Thanks in advance! Denis

I got my last one at Nissan for $30, not sure if it's worth the boneyard price for a used one. Denis