denisb

I agree with JJ. The best thing to try is some really good penetrating oil and every day add more and open and close it a few times. They are pretty comon to seize up. Mine was to the point were I was moving the truck when I had to open it and with a bit of persistance it got to work OK....not perfect but at least i didn't have to dig my heels in the ground to open it.

Nice pics! If I can only give a little advice......I beleive you require a snorkel for your vehicle Denis

Well if you weren't out wheeling, there would be no pressure on these explaining that nothing got f'd on the treads or holes. As for why.....did you replace your CV shaft lately? Matbe it wasn't torqued right? If not ..... Gremlins ?

If you try break cleaner make sure there's no plastic molding around tho. As for scrappers, you can buy a decal removal kit at UAP/NAPA. They have scour wheels that are safe for paint and plastic razor blades.

Actually park would probably work....kinda.... if the vehicle isn't moving the park pin should hold the tranny stoped and since the T-case parts won't be moving there shouldn't be any grinding.......from the T-case at least. And this is why I said Kinda. You will probably get grinding from your park pin trying to lock your fly wheel. The whole reason behind your grinding is that even in neutral a tranny still spins.....slowly and almost no torque, but it will a bit. So basically when the T-case is in neutral, the tranny might start spinning. So let's say you accidently pull your rig in D while the T-case is in neutral, it might take a couple of seconds for your T-case to slow the tranny down enough not to grind. Hope this clears things up and I didn't confuse you to much Denis

Happy Bday Mookie.

I still stick to what I was telling you in your first post. I think it's a tranny chatter when the torque converter locks up. Mine had the same symptoms you are describing and I drove it till it stoped (not recomended). I then decided to replace the tranny oil and clean the filter just to see. It got it going again and the chatter was gone. It has aprox 30,000 KM since and still going. I wouldn't do a flush though, just drop the oil and change the filter and see. I'm not giving you garranties, but it's cheaper than 2Gs for a tranny. As for your smell. My vote is for the famous Pathy rusted floor symptom. Check and see if your floor is hot on the drrivers side (if an American Pathy), just where the side of your accelerator foot would rest on the tranny well. Denis

I agree. If all is 100% and your grounds are all good, nothing touching your vehicle to ground it to anything, you'll probably be safe. But all it takes is a bad ground on your welder and something grounding further down the line that's hooked up to your computer and that voltage will find the shortest distance back to ground. You're investment, your call. Denis

I agree with Simon. Also when you say no oil leak, do you mean no visible leak on the ground, or no visible oil leak around common gaskets like valve covers and such. If you get leaky valve cover gaskets you might not see oil on the ground because the manifolds will burn most of it when driving and the will probaly only leak when the engine is running. Denis

Time or a new belt if you're not sure!!!!! Welcome aboard! Denis

License plate marker?!?!?

My guess is a loose connection either at the bulb socket itself or at the cluster harness (where the harness plugs into the Gauges in the back). Although I've seen bulbs be interminent odds are if it was a bulb it would most likely be out all the time.

Short of dissassembling the butterfly completely. Maybe try to lube the butterfly shaft at the two entry points of the air intake. Might be some gunk in there that's making it stick.

Yeah I guess I am . Unfortunately the Pathy was in worst shape than the X. Only because it was over ten years older and had 350 000 Km more on the ticker. I needed something with a box and the X fit in my budget at the time so in a nutshell that's how I got hooked up with the X. If I would have had the extra 5Gs at the time I was actually looking at a Pathy or a Fronteer. A well maybe in a few years I can trade it on a Pathy.

Well good to see no one has revoked my password and started a "thank god he's finally gone" post If it wasn't that both of my kids were in hockey I guess I would have upgraded the Pathy instead of getting rid of it, but minor hockey is time consuming, expensive and did I say time consuming. I guess I'll just have to put a lift on the Exploder Sport Crack and beat on it for a few years or maybe I would have better luck with lifting the Civic :idea: Denis

Well after much debating if I should sell or keep for trailing, I decided I would sell :sniff: . At first I thought that by selling I would miss all my friends at NPORA and after much thinking I thought.......Why should I miss my friends at NPORA, they're still here and I can still visit even if I don't own a Pathfinder......right? I have all the plans to buy another Pathy when I can get some bills and such straightend out, so I guess I should stay in touch with the Pathy nation so I can keep up with what's new. So long story short.....I guess this is more than just a tech forum, this is a place where friends meet. Keep up the good work guys! Denis

My lines had gotten cut/worn where they go thru the radiator frame.

This is if you have auto hubs........ If you drive in 2wd and it clicks, when coming to a stop, does it clunck right before you get stopped? If so you probably have a sticking or bad hub clutch on the oposite side.

Very well done. Nice wheels man! I think you should add a NPORA decal on your rear wind defflector also.

Sorry. Yeah tranny if there's still grinding with the Tcase in neutral and transfer case if no grinding. 88 Has a point to it could be in your front dferential specialy if you have auto hubs. They are bad for causing grinding or whizzing noises when they go bad.

Put your transfer case in neutral and then put your rig in drive. If it's grinding it's probably your transfer case. If it's not then your probably looking transfer case. By puting your TC in neutral your tranny should be spinning free as if your rear wheels are off the ground while your TC is not moving.

F'ed Up Beyond All Repair Learned that one working on electronics. Usually written on a service tag that hangs from a board with a big black hole in the middle.

Sounds like it might be a transfer case problem. Possibly linkage or such. If your T-case would not be engaging all the way and ending up in neutral

Personally. Too big and too much plastic to be in the same category as the older Pathys. Not to say that I wouldn't mind having one, it's just hard to imagine it on the trails.

Usually you would of noticed your RPMs go up gradually as your tranny would have emptied. But tranny fluids on the pan is not a good sign. Put it up on a hoist and see exactly where the fluid is coming from. If it's a line and you stopped before you burnt your tranny you might still stand a chance. If something broke and went through the side of the tranny......You might be SOL.