denisb

What about water. From the pics I've seen so far the cone filters always seem to be in the open (uncovered) and I know this is probably for better air flow, but wouldn't you be sucking in more humidity because your filter isn't covered. When wheeling that is. <_< Denis

There's a fresh new Off Road Club in NB, Canada. The forum is free and the yearly club membership if you want to go to meetings and trailling with them is $10/year. For more info go to www.nboffroadclub.com .

When you first turn your key, your pump comes on to pressurize your fuel system, so that's probably why you mostly smell it on start up. I'd check the obvious like connectors at areas where there's been repairs done and clamps added, fuel filter etc. My friend had a Maxima that did this right before his sending unit let go. Due to a bad connection on the sending unit the pump was comming on and off and overpressurizing the fuel system. His car was cutting in and out though.

Try a search on the preveious NPORA forum site.I think at one time Jim had posted he had bought after market ones. I might be mistaking but he might know. good luck

I've got a question about mounting driving lights on the roof rack. Does it increase the visibility in fog, rain and snow? The reason I ask this is, when your driving in these conditions and turn on your brights you seem to see less than with your dims, so does it make a difference if your lights are mounted high and sort of in behind you? Just curious <_<

I've got a 90 Pathfinder and mounted them on the top of my bumper. Drilled two holes and bought a set of pilot mounting brackets to make the instal look pretier. I wanted to mount them high enough for rough driving, so I wouldn't be replacing lenses every week. If you use this method remember to leave enough space between the grill and the lights for adjustments up and down. I just barely left enough and when adjusted to the right height the back part of my lights rest against the grill. Denis

I agree with stevew1, when your driving on the highway and you acccelerate and then let go the accelerator and your rig feels like it wiggles, this is a sign of bad control arm bushings. At least with the rigs up to 95. In 96 they went to unibody design which might be different. Someone might be able to answer on that.

Wow didn't think lowering your air pressure on ice and snow worked that good. Seems to have worked great for you. Nice pics. Denis

There's an idea for the light part. I might try that, it could save me from changing my switch, I sometimes get lazzy like that

I would do the same as Nick said, like he said make sure the fuse is before the switch and you should be good to go. Remember if you hook them directly to the battery, you chance leaving them on, I put a lit switch on mine so I wouldn't forget them on. If you buy a lit switch make sure you try it before so it isn't to bright though, I find mine is a little bright and I plan on changing it soon.

Hey Jason, I think when they tell you to tap in to your high beams, they want you to use your normaly closed position on your relay, this means your lights will be off when there is power to your relay. Therefore your fog lights off when your highbeams on. The reason for doing it that way is your high beams on your truck are on less of the time therefore less use of your relay. I am not 100% sure but I think that's the reasoning behind it. It will work both ways though.

Always a s!@t disturber around isn't there? He,he,he. Stevew1 be kind to us elders remember were still young at heart.

I turned 18 um.......15 years ago ,but hey your only as old as you feel and when I'm 4wheelin' I feel 18. Does that count?

When I took the spark plugs out of mine the last time I was almost templed to bang the firewall in to give me extra room to remove the plugs. I have two questions though regarding spark plug removal. 1- Is there something you can put on them so they come out easier the next time?(anti-seize of some sort) 2- There's a tool in the kit under the rear seat (90 Pathfinder anyways) that has what looks like a long plug wrench (I only noticed this after changing the plugs) is that what this is and would it work easier to remove the plugs with this?

Just to add my 2 cents worth, if you reset your computer by dissconecting your battery, and you don't want to wait as long for your computer to reset, tap your brakes when the battery cable is off. This will get rid of any voltage that has been stored in your system therefore errasing the memory in your computer causing it to reset or relearn itself. Also I should add this will only work if your computer has no backup battery.....I haven't heard of any manifacturer having any on their vehicles computer yet but who knows??????

I think that was a good poll also, I'd like to know how old I rate as an NPORA member

If I baby it and feel lucky I will get 450 kms on a tank with mine. At 78cents a liter that equals about $40.

It's actualy a voltage regulator that goes bad for the gas gauge problem, but here is the link for it , if it helps let me know. Still curious http://www.nissanpathfinders.com/Solution2.pdf Denis

I think you might have missed my previous post, this word document is for the fuel and temp gauge problem. This will not help you for the tach problem but If you still want to see this doc, you can go to nissanpathfinders.com andgo into the FAQ section under fuel and gas gauge repair. I am curious what the dealer sold you. Did you explain your problem and specify that it was your tach and not fuel and temp gauge? I'm just wondering if they didn't give you the wrong part. Let us know what you get. Good luck, Denis

The Fix I posted one the original site is for the gas gauge and temperature control problem not the tachometer problem. although the tach problem seems to be a common problem as well. Just wanted to clarify so no one takes off in the wrong direction. sorry

I've never done it on a pathy, but I've done a couple of front drives, it's somewhat of a job but definatly not impossible. The worst part is taking of the caliper, hub, ball joint or joints depending if you can take the shaft out with just one ball joint out. Once you have the shaft out take your boot lock bands off, slide your boot over, there will be a couple of snap rings to take off so you can take the knucles off, slide your new boot on and reverse process. With a Chilton manual, a pair of boot ring pliers (you will need these to make sure you get a proper crimp on the boot band) it shouldn't be a problem. there is a boot an each end of each shaft, I would take this time to inspect the other end and replace it if ther is any sign of cracking or damage on the other end. As for sealing your boot with Duct Tape.........all I can say is don't go four wheeling or go too far. A boot is cheaper than replacing the knuckle also. Good luck

Sorry folks, but I like the 4 doors......I find they look better, and besides, my wife doesn't mind me 4 wheelin as much since it's easier access for the kids. But eriously there is no such thing as an ugly Pathfinder