denisb

First off are you sure it just start doing this after you installed the new bulbs? Even if the relay clicks it might be faulty (it could have been ready to go and just the difference in power could have killed it). On thing you could do to eliminate this is, if both relays are the same, swap them and see if the problem follows the relay. This might be something you've tried before, but I'm just trying to brainstorm. Also, and I'm not very familliar with the 2002 wiring, my 1990 had a similar problem with the driving lights and it was the driving light module that was bad. It just had a bad solder joint. I took it apart and resoldered it. It works fine now.

If it's more of a high pitched squeal, it could be a rock between your brake sheild and the rotor too. It makes a kinda metal on metal sound that doesn't change with brake pressure. Try going side to side somewhat hard (like you're warming up your tires in a NASCAR race ), if the sound is worst when the weight of the vehicle is on the side making noise, it's probably a bearing.

An LED is going to be harder to dim. Unfortuatelly an LED doesn't have as wide a range of brightness as a light. I tried it just for $h!ts and giggles with a 1 kohm (1000 ohm) resistor. It dims a bit. Might be enough to help you. Just install it in series and try it. Just so we're clear to connect the resistor in series, disconect the wire going to your light on your switch, solder one side of the resistor to your switch prong and the other side to your wire or connector you just dissconnected. Hope this helps and good luck!

Kinda sounds like the control arm bushings.......but I'm not 100% sure. When your on the highway and you let off the gas, does it do this wiggle?

Best way to find out if it's your alternator, dissconect your battery while it's idling, if it shuts off, it's your battery. If all your lights are on and it's due to your alternator, your alternator is not pushing enough voltage and it will shut down if no battery power is supplied.

The only problem I've heard of by overfilling is weird shift and tranny chater when tork locks up.

Your ET-Power switch stands for....I beleive (Power electronic transmition, that's my story and I'm sticking to it) . It basically makes your tranny shift at a higher RPM to give you more power while towing or passing. If you come on to your rig and look at that light on the switch, it will momentarilly come on while the tranny kicks into power mode. As for your manifolds, there are lots of posts if you want to do research on this you can try a search. The short version is, if you fix the manifold problem, increase the size of your studs while you're at it. There's a couple of postings about headers also.

If they are metallic brake pads it could very well be. I have a theory and maybe someone can clarify on this. This is truely my own opinion and I might be 100% wrong. I think that mid range brake pads(not the most expensive or the cheapest), are the best. The reason I think that is that there is a little less metal content, so reduced chance of squealing and if there is less metal content you will chew up your rotors less. You might replace your pads a little sooner but you will get a little longer life out of your rotors which should balance out in the long run. I am not a brake specialist and would like to hear anyone with comments on this. Denis

I forgot to add, buy some brake grease and put some inbetween the caliper, the shimms, and the pads making sure you don't put any on the asbestos part of the pad. This will usually help quite a bit.

Take your wheel off. On the back side of your caliper there will be two bolts (3/8" I think). These are the pins that hold your caliper, once these are removed, you should be able to slide your caliper up . You might have to take a flat screw driver or pry bar to open up your caliper to ease it off. If so just slide your screw driver in between the rotor/disc and the brake pad and pry it open. Once the caliper is off your shims(baffles) should pretty well fall off, if not they should be stuck to your pads. Take them off and replace them or leave them off completly. Reverse the steps to reassemble. One note that I should add is that when the calipers are off, make sure not to push the brake pedal. This could cause the damage to the caliper seals. Denis

The sensor can be found if you look under your truck, on the left hand side of the transfer case. It's in a real tight spot and a b!*#h to get at . I had to resolder one of the wires back on to mine.

Here's a site for Crazy Carpets. http://www.snowspeeders.com/turbosheet.html Hope this helps

I agree 100% with greenbushy. Hopefully the hubs weren't leaking and rusted up like mine were. They're about $300 a pop canadian :oops:

If you live in an area with snow, you can cut up a kids crazy carpet. That's what I used for mine. plastic very flexible yet strong and for 4-5 bucks you get a 2' x 4' piece.

If you want to do a swap, I think I've read a post somewhere that talks about using a Nissan Quest/Mercury Villager (Same vehicle different name) alternator as a subsstitute. I think the reason behind it is that it's a little more covered and has a higher amperage rating. Pretty sure it's a bolt on deal. Might be something to look into.

You asked if anyone has ever installed. I'm not 100% sure, but didn't Mr. Jim install Thorleys on his rig?

If you want to know if your nozzle is cloged, disconnect the nozzle like sw said and hit your button. If fluid comes out clean your nozzle. If not start pulling the next panel where your hose is going to next. It's a great learning experience to see how your inside panels come off

You could be having a cooling problem, this would cause hard shifts. I think the hard shift is a fairly common problem. Mine has a hard shift when cold from 2nd to drive. It should probably brought to a trany shop for a test drive to confirm. As far as your blinking light, I'm thinking it's probably the tranny going into power mode, especially if it does it when stepping on the gas. My 90 has a power A/T button with a light that comes on when it goes into power mode. Hope this helps ease your mind a little. Denis

Maybe your torque converter isn't locking up (bad torque or lock up solnoid). Count your shifts we accelerating. You should get 1st, 2nd, drive, over drive and then when you get to cruising speed you should feel a slight drop in rpm when the lock up occures (mine goes typically from about 3200 to 2800rpm if I'm not in a hurry ). Hope this helps.

I have sorta the same problem/noise. I checked for oil in the water and there was only oil in there, so I left for now.

I had this happen to me, but luckily I could remove them by clamping in a vise, a pair of vise grip and WD-40. The first time I cleaned the pins, the second time (three weeks later) I replace the pins and used actual brake lub and they still work 100%. It's been 6 months and only cost me $20 for a set and $15 for the rubber boots that go on them.

Yeah, my bad, both signal and brake light aren't in the same bulb . I wasn't thinking. My direction of trouble shooting was to try to eliminate the problem source. I'd say if you've got an electrical diagram look at what's common between both and go from there. Sorry I was watching the hockey game as I was writting

For trouble shooting sakes, try to remove both light bulbs in your rear signal light. It could be a bad ground in your tailights. I had a Dodge Shadow (oops didn't mean to swear) that had a bad grounded tailight and with the park lights on, when the brakes were applied the light would actually dim instead of brighten. If you would happen to have that same problem you could be sending a signal back to your front signal light also. If I was sitting in front of you with a piece of paper a a pencil I could show you how this comes to happen, but it's kinda hard to explain with words........I guess it's true what they say, a picture is worth a thousand words Let us know what you find

if jdud's exchange is right and my calculator is right that would be aprox 2.75/gal, so I guess even if we Canuck have funny money it would still be more expensive for you American to cross the border.......eh!

Well the Canadian East cost is now up to $1 a liter, that's $3.80 a gallon. Time to start car pooling when we go wheeling ..........ok, maybe not