denisb

If you're in from the US of A, I beleive Pep boys will check for free.

You might have a cloged vent tube (not sure where you live, but if you live in cold climate, there could have been humidity that froze up your vent). If your vent tube gets clogged the air won't come out of your tank quick enough and the pump will kick out. Your ECU would probably also pick up on it, due to the fact that as your gas is sucked out of your tank by tour fuel pump it will cause a vacum and your pump will need to work harder to maintain it's pressure. Check your ECU for a code to find out if it's related to fuel gas venting. These two incidents could be unrelated. I heard that when the service stations pump filter gets older, plugged up, the pump is a lot more touchy as far as clicking off. So it could just be one of those coincidence, your light's on for something else and the pump was just touchy.

My 94 has none in the back, it shares the front one. Check your front reservoir and see if you have two pumps on it. If it does, both are in the front.

Sillicon lube will not ruin the rubber seals. Do not use a petrollium based lube because it will deteriorate the rubber from the seals over time. You can get it in a spray for which isn't to thick.

Sounds like your torque converter is locking up and unlocking. This could be a number of things. When you get of the gas the torque will unlock until you get back on the accelerator and drive steady for a little ways. If it does it when you are keeping a steady speed, it could be your lock up solnoid, tranny computer and I beleive low tranny fluid pressure will also do it.

You voltage regulator for your temp gauge isn't your overcharging problem, but your overcharging might be part of the cause of your temp gauge regulator going bad though. Sounds more like your alternator's regulator is bad. I'd get it fixed bfore you take out your ECU or other stuff. At 18v your pushing most of your electrical/electronics. Denis

Send me an e-mail adress I can send you a PDF file and I'll make a copy of the location for you and send it in an e-mail. If your interested. It's located on the top of the tranny on the back part (closer to the transfer case. Might be a little hard to get at according to the drawing. Cheers Denis

The tranny going from 2300 rpm to 2600 rpm at highway speed sounds like your tranny is just coming in and out of lock up. This would happen mostly when you're coming off the accelerator, but it might happen going up hill or if your rig starts to labour too. If it does it ecsseivly you might have a problem with your lock up solnoid, but it's normal to do this.

I had the same problem and replaced the existing bolts with aluminum siding self tap screws, they're rust resistant and drill their own hole. Just make sure you buy them a tad bigger than the bolts originally in there (use the one bolt that didn't break to measure) and I would recomend pre drilling with a smaller size drill to facilitate the task. The ones I used were about 3/4" long with a 3/8" head I beleive.

Could be suspension oriented or door pins. Kinda hard to tell. Get someone to sit on the passenger side and listen to try to pin point it. Just thought of something else, I had a funny banging noise on my rig and it was a broken muffler hanger. The muffler would hit against the frame when torque was aplied to the motor. It was also banging when starting my truck too.

I checked my manual and the only codes I can see go up to something like nine blinks and are only initiated after a certain switch sequence (power and ignition switch). You can look it up here if it will help. http://Nissan.damagedreality.com/NissanTransTests.pdf Hope this helps, Denis

Not sure when they changed them, but the 90 doesn't have it. I think they changed it in 94.

That is a tranny code, I don't have my service book with me, but I will check to see if it has codes in it when I get home tonight.

I've done them in my driveway before. If you decide to go through with it. I'd recomend buying new slide pins, they're known to stick and give you grief. For the price replace them while you have your calipers off. Other than possible seized bolts there shouldn't be to much trouble. About an average brake job I would say.

This weekend I was coming home from hunting and one of my friends sitting in the back seat said my ECU was flashing 3 codes. He said it would flash 3 blinks, 13 blinks and 22blinks with the last blink being longer. Anyone out there know what those codes would be? I tried to get them to flash when I got home but there didn't seem to be any on there. Just curious what they might be. Thanks, Denis

Did you look at your body mounts?

If it was raining quite hard and your alternator belt would have started slipping it might have turned all your lights (alt,check eng,etc) on (sort of like your rig turning off but ignition being still on). When the alternator doesn't charge right the Pathy has a tendacy to light up the dashboard. If you have a volt meter in it and it does it again look and see, if it reads under around 11 volts your lights will start to light up.

If it's worst when you fill it it could be leaking up top the gas tank and you might not be able to see gas leaking. If it's leaking gas enough for you to smell it and it isn't the top of your gas tank , you should be able to see wet spots somewhere along the lines or gas tank. Look under and follow the lines, they follow the inside of the frame on the passenger (right) side of the truck. Follow it up to your filter which is in the engine compartement (right, left if your facing your truck). Make sure your clamps are tight on your filter. I think I've also seen a post on a clamp coming loose on the injector "manifold" or whatever you want to call it. Sorry, I'm having a brain fart and can't think of the exact word for this part (The tube/pipe that connects all your injectors together). Hope you find your problem

I'would have to say it's either your relay or something making your relay always energized. If you know where your relay is sittuated, Remove it and see if you still get voltage drop at your battery, if you do your problem is somewhere else. If your problems goes away when you remove your relay check the following. A common relay has 3 0r 4 pins, only on of those pins should have power when the relay is disconected if any have power at all (this voltage should be checked with ignition off). To check for voltage measure from harness pin to a good known ground and ignition off. One of those pins should have power when the ignition is turned on, this would be the pin that energizes your relay. (If you don't have a This should point you in the right direction to check your relay. This is just a general way to check a relay circuit, but should work for your relay. Hope this helps

Sorry, I was rereading my post, I meant it only droped by 300 rpms when it locks up. So goes from about 2600 to 2300.

My 90 is about the same RPMs at the same speed. Auto also. But the difference from lock up to unlocked is only about 3k. At that speed it should come out of lock up when you let off the accelerator, and lock up 1/4 to half a mile later when you reapply acceleration.

To make sure it didn't happen again, I made myself a heat shield out of furnace ducting. This insures that future leaks wont warm up my carpet. If you do this, make sure you fasten it good to avoid ratlles.

Question. Your Pathy wouldn't be auto locking hubs by chance? If they start sticking, you will hear a grinding wizing noise that will get a little louuder till you get going slow enough to engage the other one hense the pop when the opposite side engages. Try hauling your rig in 4x4 and try it again, if it stops you foud your problem. If it is your problem take your hubs off and grease them.

If you don't want the light at all.........electrical tape. Oh and by the way, if you get a resistor, just a regular 1/4 watt 1 kohm resistor will do.

Last time I had that smell, I had an exhaust leak under the drivers foot well and the carpet almost caught fire. :o Depending on what kind of smell, it could be anything.