denisb

--> QUOTE(Geoff B @ Sep 18 2007, 11:22 PM) 258912[/snapback] If you remove the clutch parts they will simply never be disengaged, they will stay either locked forward or reverse, whichever was the last direction you were going before you shifted back to 2WD. Just an FYI this is not quite true. They will be engaged weather you move forward or reversed if the clutch is out of them. I took mine out and ran them without the clutches for a year and a half with no problems reverse or forward.

I think that's what he meant by "it gave me a 33 code which seems to be an O2 code" in his previous post

I'd say fuel filter and wait till you need to replace the gas tank before you touch the pump, not a common problem for the pump to go bad.

Just PMd you Texas.

O2 could definatlly cause to rich mixture (black smoke) and make it run rough since it would affect fuel/air mixture.

Low hydraulic fluid levels. Bad sycronisers (although it should be more obvious on some gears than others). Bad release bearing. Bad clutch master cylinder all could contribute to hard shifting. For your power windows if they seem to be sluggish, cleaning the rails and re lubing them should work. .....hardbodys? you are talking about a Pathy right?

Not sure if it works, but some manufacturers of similar devices will give you (I beleive) 10 or 15 years garranty if installed on new vehicles......pretty tempting when you're purchasing a new vehicle you plan on keeping a while. Denis

Sometimes when they do alignments, you're steering wheel will not end up center and they have to recenter it. Maybe if you got an alignment done lately they forgot to check. Simon, you said Pezzy had a sub-frame issue and had that issue....Did the Pathy not pull? I'm kinda surprised that a bent frame part would not have affected how straight the truck would have drove. Usually missalignments, bent suspension or steering parts are the cause for a steering wheel going off center....however it usually comes with some sort of steering deterioration. Denis

If it fits a Toyota 4x4 it will fit Nissan. Same bolt pattern and the hubs on the Yotas are big like the Nissans.

True, but if I buy a winch, it's not for a one time use.....it's for the long haul. So I think that as a consumer I would rather know that a winch will last me better and work better (with a simple mod like replacing the cable) than the next one. I agree with Simon....to late and our opinion mean squat on the test....on this forum however......

I definately think they should have factored out winch line break in a DNF. It not fair to rate a winch for the line winded on it or the crimp holding it on....however....very interesting read! Denis

Yeah, I read through the post quickly and missed the low gas mileage and sluggish bit ....however he mentions hills and such.....so the question is is it harder on fuel on a regular basis or just that trip? I agree tho, those sympthoms on a regular bassis give impression of a plugged cat. There's mention of 4x4 trip and something hitting under the vehicle.....The underneath should definately checked for damaged exhaust system components, specialy if the problem started right after....This being said.....that trip could have loosened that flange even more causing the excessive heat. Long story short. I there needs to be more looking into and more input.

Not necissarily a clogged cat. Mine had the same thing happen and there's lots of post on this issue on 90-95 (possibly even on the 86.5 to 90). The flange at the Y starts leaking and heats up the floor. If left alone, A. on a long drive the floor heats hot enough to cause a problem or B. the floor rusts out due to heating of the metal and eventualy catches fire. I just fixed mine with a piece of sheet metal and did a heat sheild with a piece of aluminium and two angle brakets as a backup incase the flange ever leaks again.

Yeah, if you click on the pic to enlarge it you will see that there's some fluids on it that makes it look as if it had been bent or twisted.....just an optical effect.

I agree that this Forum is no worst than any other for not replying. I think the only reason this topic was brought up was to bring to our attention (the regulars anyway) that it is curtious to add a reply to a fix so we have a reference for next time someone has a similar problem. We probably notice the "no reply to a fix" in topics because we are here frequently trying to help others and curious if their issues were re solved. It is gratifying to hear that you helped a fellow Pathy owner who lives half way across this planet and I think that's what makes this site feel more familly like. As for the fighting and bickering.....have you ever seen a familly that doesn't have bickering and fighting......

True enough, I've been out with the "unofficial" Jeep club a few times(some of my friends are in the Jeep club and it can't be an official Jeep meet if "others" are with them). I have heard the initial "hmmm....stock Pathfinder....okidoki" comments that turn into later....."wow, I'm surprised you could make it through there and tow us out" coments. Ah just writing that gives me a warm fuzzy feeling inside And another thing is the space in the back seat. You've got to go pretty far to see a passenger car(even full size) have as much leg room in the back seat as the WD21.

But you've got to think outside the box Pezzy

I agree 100%. I realise after buying my last vehicle that I should have gone back in model years and bought a Pathy instead of the Ice cream delivery truck I bought (nice and shinny, but not really a true 4X4). One thing I am kinda curious about is if all Pathys are that addictive or just the WD21s. Now before the R50 owners jump at me here. I typically pay more attention to the WD21 posts because I know them best and I'm not saying this because I want to runn them down. If that was the case I'd be saying that 4 doors are more addictive than two doors.......oops did I say that out louud? I'm just curious, is there as much loyalty amongst R50s as amongst WD21 owners?

Sorry, but I did 3 of my last trucks myself, two with the Walmart brand and one with the 3M or similar quality stuff and only the two Walmart brands turned purple. These were company vehicle washed with the same window cleaner brand used for the last ten years to clean the windows on our machines, so I have to blame the crappy tint for turning purple......however although I manged to do a fairly decent job on the tints, there were slight inperfections and a couple of specs of dust. If I would have paid to get it done, it would have come out perfect because they probably would have redone them.

I've done mine myself before, but I bought the professional stuff, along with proper solution (cleaning and installation)and used a stainless steel blade in my cutter (this will eliminate scratches on your window when you cut the tint). It makes the world of difference. I must add that I've never attempted front side windows (illegal in my area), but I hear that they are a BIATCH to do, due to the fact that they slide. The only thing is, if you don't know anyone that does tinitng, it will probably cost you as much just for the tint and yes, the Walamrt stuff is junk. It turns purple over time and if not installed properly will bubble and look like crap. So my advice, unless you really want to learn, is find a car windshield repair shop and get them to do it for you, or buy the good stuff from them. Denis

Looks stock to me.

Can you say CAN OF WORMS?

I agree 100%. We try our best with the knowledge we have to help people on the board. In some instances it might be a similar symthom with a totaly different fix. If no one answers "yes it fixed my prob" or "no it didn't" (although a no usually brings another question) we have to assume the initial prognosis was correct. I know once a problem's been solved we all want to go try our mended pathy around the block, trail, over an anoying neighbour's car but, once you've gotten this out of your system, go on-line and ..... 1. Thank the person trying to help you (still cheaper than a mechanics bill) 2. let us know what was wrong and if there were any variances in steps taken to fix, parts used, etc. Denis

Sorry about your luck, glad to see everyone is OK. Personaly I think insurance companies should take recent repairs into consideration, although they'll probably chock it up to regular maintenance that is needed on an older vehicle. See what they give you for either repairing or replacing it and check your local used car magazines before accepting a money transfer. If it's less than the average Pathy of same shape, age, mileage is going for, then fight with them to get more. Who knows, they might offer better than you'd expect right from the start. Good luck and let us know how you make out! Denis

Sounds like one of your hubs is not dissengaging making the other one chatter. If you take them off and grease them it might fix your problem (don't overgrease them tho). If you e-mail me at htdbour@hotmail.com, I've got the manual in PDF format I can send you. As for having your hubs looked all winter. I wouldn't worry to much about doing it. You might decrease your gas milleage, but it probably won't be that noticible and some say it's harder on CV boots, but that depends on how much sharp turning you do (parking lots and such). I had auto hubs go bad on me (bad clutches), I locked them permanantly and drove my pathfinder for 2 years with the hubs locked, without seeing any problems. Denis