denisb

You don't have to take the fenders off. The vents are a little tricky to remove. Take a small flat screw driver and press donwn on the plastic clips(the middle part only) the middle of the clip will push down about an eith of an inch and the the clip can be pulled up. Oh and tapping the arm lightly with a hammer after the center bolt is removed is the best way I found to remove the arm from the shaft. Denis

Maybe they should've named it an Ford Exploder!

Yeah, it's kinda like groundhog day.......the same stores over and over again. 3 MacDonalds, 2 The Source (why, I'm not sure -thnkboutit- ). Don't get me wrong the Waterpark, Amusement park and shooting range are pretty impressive, but Two The Source!?!?!?! OK so an update. Behind my hotel is a snow covered dirt road A.K.A. my own mini rally test track. Let's just say that the Explorer is more fun to drive with the skid control off and the 4x4 on auto. **note to self-Never buy a rental vehicle.....Why? Because I've driven one** Oh does anyone know if the clunk when the auto 4x4 engages is normal? This is a pretty hair raising sound. Denis

So anyone want to go wheelin in Edmonton. I'm here for the week working and the car rental company gave me a fully loaded Explorer to beat up. I'm kinda bored and since I've walked the WestEd Mall about 3 times so far I figured I'd find something more interesting to do. Anything interesting going on in Edmonton over the next few days? Denis

Door seals Terrible??!?!?!?!?!? Mine are missing! You would need a basket ball for mine. I guess my truck has an antitheft and I didn't know it Denis

My guess is your exactly right. Sometimes it will be hard to see the cracks to the naked eye, with a magnifying glass or by trying to wiggle the relay, you might be able to notice the crack better or see the connector move inside the solder.

Sounds like the DRL module. If you take the module apart you should see solder "cracks" if you will, when you wiggle the relays on the board. Just try re soldering all of the bigger connectors off the board and see if it helps. I fixed mine a couple of years ago and their still going but some people had less luck.

Oh yes the days of purple, black and un-cathegorised topics. Denis

Being one of the first official members of NPORA (#19). It's hard to beleive how much this site has grown. I remeber learning so much from NPORA about my Pathy the first years as a member. I wonder if Mr Jim (Jim Benett) knew when he first started NPORA what he was really starting. Although this is by far the best site I have found for Pathfinder information, it has become more than that. It's become a place where you can meet friends and disscus and share every day happenings. Thank you Mr Jim, moderators and the knowledgable members involved in making this site what it is today. Keep up the good work Denis

I don't think even cold water could of kept a Pathy from rusting.

I might be wrong.....but aren't the 95 boots the same as the earlier years?

Got it! Thanks

Find a big friend?!?!?!?

Oh I forgot to add. If you purchase I'd check to see if the tranny cooler is OEM or not....the OEM sucked and lots of people ruint trannys that way. As for your brakes, If you have disks in the back, could be stuck pins. Mine act like that when they start needing attention. Denis

No Vacum 4X4 on these, they're purely mechanical. You mention rust, Make sure to check the frame from the back wheel on especially. They have a comon rust problem in that area as well as under the rear seats. If you didn't hear clicks or knocks that's a good thing, as they are known for their broken manifold studs. They are pretty bullit proof. Mine's got close to 240ks and it still runs good. The only thing that I'd be a little warry about is the coolant leak. Not sure about that one. Definately I would do timing belt since you will be in that area when replacing the water pump. Oh and check the rear control arm bushings (which are another common prob). It's an easy enough fix if they're bad, but you might be able to dicker on price some more Denis

Wow Nice Flex! That almost belongs in Pathy Olympics Hall of Fame........Hey that's it, we should have a Pathy Olympics.......Show off your Flex, Mud wrestling, Tug of war, syncronized swimming (for those oopsies) Denis

I'd remove the cinder block, it might make it lighter. Denis

Or it could be my rig..........wait a sec I'll be right back!!!!! Oh, never mind. Mine's white -alcohol-

Looks like suicide doors too! Pretty Cool! Denis

I've had mine locked for the last two years and had no adverse effect that I can tell. Some say it makes your vehicle a little harder on gas.......they're not great on gas to start off with. All you have to do is take them off and spin the inside of the so they are locked. Then remove the clutch assembly. This is why with auto hubs, you get a crunch when you go from forward to reverse, etc. The clutch actually dissengages the hubs momentarily when it chages dierection. If the clutch is not there, the hub stays in it's engage or dissengaged position.. Denis

Usually it's the joints just under the two big relays. You might have to look really close to see them, they tend to be just hairline cracks. If you apply pressure back and forth on the relays they should be visible. If not, then you might have something else that's faulty. If it isn't a cold solder, plug it in and see if the relays acctivate when you turn on the Path. If they activate, it might not be your DRL at all. (just remember to make sure nothing shorts out when you test) let us know how you make out, Denis

Hey and maybe you could mount your 32" spare on them too......that way there you could cary two. Denis

Did you replace the release bearing? It sounds to me like that might be your broblem. Denis

I wouldn't skimp out on the bolts and nuts. Go to an automotive store and get a good grade bolt with a locking nut. Denis

No probs ILMP, that's what this site's all about. One of them was out in about 2 minutes and the other one took about 10. Both of them came out with the air hammer. Do the Polly bushings have a metal outer sleeve? If so, depending on the type of press, you might be able to push the old bushings out with your new ones as you press the new ones in.