denisb

One of those prongs is probably NC (normaly closed) which means it acts like a closed switch when there is no power to the relay. That's probably why one of your lights wasn't on. You can add one relay for each light, but it's not necessary. Both lights should be able to run of the one prong no problem. Denis

Unless you can do a couple hundred Mph with a pathy, I would say the skid plate doesn't play a big role in aerodynamics.......at least not enough to make the truck have enough aerolift to make a difference I have to give another vote for .......um......drugs. Denis

Maybe a dissconnected vacum?

LOL. I'm not even sure what I wrote there. Damn cold medecine -alcohol- Basically the locks are set up to detect when someone locks one of the front door, which then locks all doors via powerlocks. The power locks on the two front doors have two connectors going to them. One is to "detect", one is to lock via power lock. Figure out which is power lock and which one is detect. Dissconnect the detect connector. This might dissable your alarm though (if you have one). Since the vehicle won't be able to tell if the doors are locked or not. Is this better Slick?

I am trying to help someone with an 01 QX4 (Pathy with a tuxedo ). I would like to get the headlight wiring diagram (from switch to headlight) and, if it exists, fuse box diagram. The one in the owners manual would probably work and if someone has the actual electrical drawing that would even be better. Thank you, Denis

This might not be your problem, but you can try it. With your rig off, try moving your throtle body butterfly (Spin the halfmoon where the throtle cable goes around). See if it moves freely. If it seems to stick slightly, your throttle body needs to be cleaned. You can use regualr carb cleaner to clean it by taking your air breather off. I know it is a common problem with the older pathys. Usually you will also start noticing this happening when first pressing the accelerator, the accelerator seems to be sorta jammed, hard to push in. Denis

My passenger side door started doing something similar. It would sorta kick my lock up when I tried to lock the door. I took the panel off and found that there was two connectors. One is for locking/unlocking and the other one detects when if the lock is locked or unlocked to lock all the doors when one of the front locks a depressed. I dissconnected the connector that detects the lock being locked/unlocked and it solved the problem. This will dissengage the auto lock when you lock the doors using the lock nob, but your power locks will still work using the power lock button (next to the power window switches). Clear as mud? I hope I didn't confuse you to much. Denis

Sounds like a syncroniser problem. It definately wont go away and probably will get worst. Grinding is never good in a tranny. It causes metal shaving and stuff. It should probably be looked at depending on how bad it is. Denis

vidro, you have a valid point. His rig is a 94 looking at his member info so it leaves out the float problem. I am going by the disscription of the problem given in writing. Without a test drive, it can sound like one problem and be something totaly different. In my opinion this sounds tranny/torque related, but a test drive by a competent mechanic would definately help you in your diagnostics. Denis

Although it's hard to say without a test drive, I would be suspicious about your torque converter. Since it seems to act up when your torque actually locks up and and when it unlocks (when you step on the accelerator) it seems to be fine. You can bring it to a tranny shop for a test drive, they might be able to give you more insight. However keep an open mind when they give you their thoughts. Here's why: I brought mine in and it had a tranny chatter. They told me that if a tranny conditioner didn't help the torque had to be replaced and the tranny rebuilt ($2200 to $2500). I tried the conditioner and it helped but didn't solve the problem. About 6 months later the tranny stoped (No gears). A mechanic friend of mine helped me take the pan off and said that there was no excessive debris in the pan so.....I decided that for the $100 it was going to cost for gasket, oil and filter screen, I was going to try a tranny oil change first. .I have since probably put 10K miles on the tranny with no problems and the chatter dissapeared as soon as I did the oil change. If you decide to try a tranny oil change, check the pan for shinny metal shavings. The metal shavings are usually a sign of torque converter wear. Good luck! Denis

Just for an FYI a tranny chater does feel like if you are running over a rumble strip. It might of got more noticable when you put your glass pack on due to the louder exhaust. I noticed my torque locking up more when my Y-pipe gascket let go(because the louder exhaust emphasised the difference in RPM)......actualy that's when I noticed and started asking the same questions you're asking now. One more question, does it "vibrate" constantly? or does it "vibrate" for 1/4 mile or so as it drops in RPM and then go away? Denis

My condolences to you and his family. We will keep his family in our thoughts and prayers. Denis

First off I am not a Tranny expert and if anyone wants to corect or add to this do jump in. Secondly I'm assuming this to be an auto tranny. Kinda sounds like a tranny chater at torque lock up. As soon as you hit a cruising constant speed, your torque converter will lock up (less wear within the torque, kinda the same idea as your clutch not being let out all the way on a manual). The chater is due to the clutches in the torque not grabbing properly (in laymens terms). This could be due to poor fluid presure or dirty fluids. A tranny oil change might help. I recomend replacing the screen also, but different people have different opinion on this. As for the difference in RPMs: When you accelerate, the torque will then unlock to alow your rig to reach higher RPMs and therefore higher torque. This is when your RPMs are going up. The 2000 to 1500 RPMs sound about right at highway speeds. If this is your issue, you will also notice that in town (aprox. 30 Mph) you will also get this chatter as soon as you reach your cruising speed, then if you tap the accelerator just a little your rig will jump up in RPM. Hope this helps, Denis

I'd take the cluster off and make sure all the connections are good in the back. Clean all the contact area and try it again. There's only about 10 to 12 screws to take out to remove the cluster. All the guages you mention are voltage related and the tapping on the dash getting the RPM going leads me to think a loose connection. If it was just your gas and temp there is a solution, but it seems to be all electonics in yours. Denis

As far as towing a boat you should have no problem as long as you install a good tranny cooler, the OEM cooler was crappy. As for plowing, the front suspension is a torsion bar system. I am not sure how those would be to hold up the weight of a plow. You'd probably want to crank em up or install some that are a little heavier duty. Denis

Happy Bday Nissan Canada! Denis

My rig is white and I hate it. Rust is way to visible on it. I've always liked Mr. Jims rigs color. I guess it would be considered Tan. It's the one on the banner at the top of the forum. Denis

Here's the link to the carpets I was talking about. At least it's a start. http://www.snowspeeders.com/turbosheet.html Denis

Well SC88Pathy......I used a piece of Kids Crazzy Carpet to replace mine. I would assume that Crazzy Carpets are probably not on every Walmart shelf in Cali though. In case you don't know what a Crazzy Carpet is I will try to describ it to you. It's plastic carpet Canadian kids use to go slidding down snowbanks.......eh! Sorry I'm Canadian.....I had to add that. I had found a link for them in an earlier post, I'll try to find it and add it to this post. The cool thing about the Crazzy Carpet is that it can be cut with a pair of cisors if you need cut around moving parts, yet it's pretty sturdy and washes easy. It comes in plain black or a bunch of crazy colors if you want to go wild. Denis

Ceramic coating or they sell a type of fiber insulating tape. They use the tape for racing usualy, so things keep cooler under the hood and so they don't burn themselves on the headers as they're working under the hood. Denis

I think it's tight enough so you can twist your belt a quarter turn (with your fingers). any thing more is too tight, anything less is too loose. Denis

If your timing went when you were going down the highway, or if you drive a standard shift, the momentum of your truck would have kept turning the motor and unfortunately you probably bent some valves. Take it apart and see if it truly is your belt that let go. How many miles since your last belt change?

I would just run a wire back from the Fuse panel or direct from the battery. If you go direct from the battery, fuse it close to the battery. Make sure you use big enough wire so that it doesn't heat up. The reason I say this is that Nissan sorta went cheap when they wired the Pathys and use something like 24 ga. wire. There is a constant live wire going to the rear cargo light, but I wouldn't want to run much power out of it. Denis

Thanks SC88Pathy. Funny story. I now realise that it's funnier when it hapens to someone else than yourself. My wife told me that she heard a mouse in the wall the other day. Then a couple of days later she claimed she heard it in the wall in another part of the house in the wall. Since both of these walls were outside walls and are insulated, I said -argue- "honey, mice cannot go through the outside walls, they would have to go through the wall studs and insulation." Sure enough, two days later I hear a scratch in the basement, I check and they're not in the walls but between my floor joists. So I set the trap as a seasoned mouse trapper would (P&B and Cheese Wiz ). Next day the trap is tripped but no mouse :furious: I go out to the hardware store and buy these super traps, bait the same way (P&B, etc..) Next day......two mice in the same trap sly . I set them up again and decided to try to catch a couple more. Which reminds me, I should check those traps again.

One bolt on each ends of the control arms (might want to buy these in case the original bolts are rusted and you have to cut them off). If you buy the complete control arm it should come complete with the bushings on. If not buy the bushings only. If you're going to have to press them on anyways it's not much more work to get them pressed off and your control arms will surely be good. Denis