89_trailboss

its $5 at walmart for a tire swap(removal and instal). we have a tire stand. but for $5 its not worth our time. for a M/T tire I would get it done and balanced. I never balanced any tires before and never had a problem. but I bought my first set of M/T's(Xterrians) and had them mounted and balanced. one tire has a very small weight while another has almost 1/4 rim full.

then they start to wheel.... stock bumpers dont last long at all if your trying to have fun too. if you follow the beaten path there shouldnt be anyproblem.

ummm, stock bumpers may relocat easy. ones welded on dont. whey your trying to keep bumpers as small as possible out back, its hard to hide the gap and be over the frame rails. plus, when I fell in a hole one time, both rear blolts broke and I managed to loose a block completly. I later removed the other rear block, cut some steel, and weldd the blocks to the body and then just bolted the blocks down. the only good thing about body lifts are that they make it much easier to work on the drivetrain.

I soak everything down with degreaser. then spray the chit outa everything. clean water is the least of my electical worries.

you just need to reindex your tbars.

I HATE bodylifts. they look like @!*%. but whatever. I still had to force myself to do one. I noticed a differents in bodyroll. honestly, if I was to do my path again, I would upgrade my steering, crank my tbars abit for GC issues, and threw a set of nice 31" muds on it. I went the other way and put a bunch of lift on, but ****** tires. I almost killd myself after going to a good tire and realizing how much they help offroad.

before: 269.000 km on odo. 31's step bars and TONS of rust. After: 277,000 km and a year and half later. 3.5" coil spacers. Tbars re-index'd. RS5000 Rear shocks. 3" body lift. Custom steering(CL and Idle arm brace). Superwinch manual hubs. Stock rear LSD with gear oil(no additive). 97 trans+tcase. no catl. 2.5" exhaust ypipe back with Flowmaster 40. New bypassed Trans cooler. 8mm plug wires. bosch platium plugs. custom intake with snorkel and cone filter. 110 amp bosch alt. 4gauge charging wires. 33" procomp Xterrains. black 15x8"-4"bs. Custom rear bumper/hitch. custom front bumper/stinger with winch mount. custom Rocksliders. Bedlineded body. custom 60" high lift mount. custom spare tire placement(over 6" and up 3"). OEM light bar with 4 100watt hella lights. 2 100 watt hella lights mounted on fenders. custom mossy oak rear window tint. removed interior carpet. 91 door panels. 91 rear seat backs(headrest). soundedend floor and doors. 12" clif designs sub in 2.5ft^3 box tuned to 30 hz. Ultimate T3-1000D. 0/2 gauge amp power wire/ground. Alpine 7897 hu. 4" pioneer door speakers. 1" pioneer tweets in apillars. 8" MTX bluetunders in lower doors.(powerd off MA audio HK102sx). dual speed dual Efans. 75/100 watt super white headlights. SAS and dual cases on drawing board.

mine is... ummm... -thnkboutit- I dont have one. probly should with my ****** ass electical luck.

should have just started it back up and driven to the sation. my truck will run for about another mile after it "runs out". only if it runs out when Im given her. if im just coasting and it runs out ill usually only go for another 2 blocks after I re-start.

no, he means knuckle/spindel.

then your not wheeling hard enough.

Calamine, AC, Roughcountry, Rancho, and Trailmaster all make(or made) lifts for the pathies. some were for HB's but there all the same. kinda.

ummm.. if the water was up to your windsheild you got some bigger problems man. all your breather hoses for your trans, tcase and front diff are on your fire wall. and you would've had water in you engine no matter what(unless you had a snorkel). and you would have to be pretty much vertical to be able to have water up to you windsheild and NOT hit your ecu. never mind the massive amount of water that would come into your heating unit. now, if water was just splashed up that high you would be ok, but othere wise, you got alot of work ahead of you. ALOT!

Go to the junkyards and pull one off. I got mine from a dodge van. ford exploders with the towing package have real nice coolers too.

I belive the bumper has to come off. there are bolts welded onto the back of the corners and nuts that hold them on.

I run the same no matter what.

meh, ive run out many, many, MANY times(12-15 times) and my pumps still fine. *knock on wood*

keep us updated!!! I am tryng to deside between a chapion or Tmax. whats better, 3.6 hp and a 294:1 gear or 6.6hp and 172:1???

light off. when the botton is in power mode, your trans will still shift into OD. when your OD button is off, your trans wont shift into OD. wish pre 94's had that.

have very little experience with R50's off road, but from what ive seen... guy at the local 4 wheeling whole had an R50. nice guy, nice truck. 31" BFG's. we went down some trails and it seemd that he was dragging a decent amount more then I was(I too was on 31's) plus the WD21's LSD's are much nicer then R50's and, If I must drag somthing on a rock, I like it to be my frame, not my body... sssh like ive said, I havent had a ton of experiece with R50's. so its MO

R50's are great on the sity and gravel roads. I would argue about the stock R50 and Stock WD21 offroad tho. I love my WD21 to the bone. It has cost me right around $110 for 6" of lift, and upgraded steering. IMO thats not bad at all. it just takes some time and tools.I couldnt wheel an R50. to me its like beating up a good truck. my WD21 I beat the snot outa, and so far the only things that have bust are steering(stock, IA shaft bent and a bent TRE) and CV's(on rocks and got wheel hop are usually what kills me. gone threw 3 of them.). obviously if its a daily driver, and used for fishing and hunting get a R50. there nice trucks. if you looking to spend a whole weekend in the middle of no wear jsut to explore/test the limits of your truck, purly for fun, get a WD21. oh, and some missed informed you, 2 doors are better then 4!!!

if you wash your truck your frame wont rust nearly as bad. We had a 94 pathfinder that had jsut rolled over 300 000km (all of which were in canada) and the frame was near new. I have yet to see a pthfinder frame that good. my 89 has just recently rusted threw on the inside. I took one evening and fix it all up. I also just finished welding up our 95's frame. there was very little left. took a whole day to do. but saved me TONS of money. granted I ownd my own welder and know how to weld.

id atleast put something over the back whole. duct tape or somthing.

all personal preference. and IMO, It ALL depends on the setup/build. IS can be just as good as SO and vise versa. its up to YOU to deside what you want/need. join a local 4wheeling club. go out wheeling with them and see what you like. there will be guys with SA and you will see how thos preform. I too will be going solid within the next year. hopfully next summer. IFS jsut breaks to much.

dont worry about your electical. I spray everything(I mean everything) down with a 2400PSI washer and have never had a problem.