89_trailboss

looks like theres some front end damage sssh

its TBI. VG30i

my question still stands...

go with 31's. one question. what in the HELL is that muffler doing on your truck? if you can wheel with that thing on there and not damage it, you dont need 33's. 31's may be too much sssh

cool, thats what I though too.

jesus christ. feel like a fawkin IDIOT! so I had the stuble while driving but it would idle fine and would drive fine if I grannied it. in the prosses of finding the issue I replaced the Cap and rotor. as soon as I did this the truck had a heavy miss. I replaced plugs and wires AGAIN. still same stuff. MAF and coil changed AGAIN. still same thing. got pissed and left it today and went out for dinner. on the way to dinner it dawned on me. some how I managed to put my #4 and 6 plug wires on each other(4 on cap went to 6 and visversa). so I turned around and went back home quickly. swapped them around and sure enough the thing idle fine! and in the prosses of trying to figure out the rought idle I replaced somthing that fixed my stuble while driving. YAY! Just in time for sunday wheeling. thanks for the help guys. one more thing tho. how many degrees is each timing mark?

damn. they write off vehicals up here cause the windows cracked. $175 is a damn good deal IMO. atleast it would be around here.

went back to my old wires. same thing. pulled plugs. passanger side was super rich(plugs were really black) drivers side they were ok. whats up with that?

fuel pressure is good. 36 PSI at idle and load. im going to put the truck back to the way it was a week ago and see what its like(orginal plugs and wires. well wires first). damn this sux

got a pressure gauge. will check right away. picked up an 02 sensor and cap/rotor so ill swap those out and see whats what.

I agree. its not RPM related. from my past experense with other vehicals this feels like a fuel problem. my buddies B2 had very similar problems but his truck would stumble so bad it would stall. swap fuel pumps and it was fine. but eveybody on the web thinks its somthing else. anyways, I pulled the codes and got 13 and 21. ive never gotten the engine coolent temp sensor(13) code before. always had the 21 tho. could 13 cause these problems? for some resone I think I heard about it causing problems. but I cant seem to remember if it was running problems or if it was removal on the VG30E motors that was the problem. thanks for the help guys.

it idles fine. jsut seems to chung under load. I cant pin it and the RPMS will go to say 4500 and stay there cause the trans is in POWER. when its just sitting at the said 4500 it runs fine. but any bit of gas it will stumble. pulling codes as we speak. well, in a min.

well, fixed the fuel leaks. yes plural pssd still have it. it seems to be getting worse-affecting more of my RPM range as this goes on. doesnt get worse when its cold or hot. same shhit no matter what. pissed cause I have a trip on sunday and I dont think im gona be able to wheel much with this problem. ill clean my MAF tommorow. altho it was just cleaned 3 months ago. im going to put my old wires back on tommorow and see what happens. any way a fouled spark plug/plugs could cause this stumble/hesitation? im going to snag a fuel pressure gauge tommorow and see if my pumps gone. last time I check my codes(month ago) I had the ignition signal code(11 or 21 IIRC) and my dreaded 02 sensor code was back. if I have good pressure ill swap 02's but I dont think this is the problem. possable vacuum issue? I know I put a slight crack in my PCV tube. but it wasnt anything that I worried about cause it was SOOOO small. and I put some RTV on the PCV to help seal and possable issue. Im sure this is a fuel problem tho. any other ideas?

meh, think I found it. fuel line right near the tank is leaking. frame is all wet. ill fix that and see if anything changes.

also, I just did plugs, wires and PCV on the weekend. im going to check the plugs and see maybe if one came loose??? also check the wires.

89 VG30I truck starts great. runs fine when you granny it. have nice power. but at ~2500RPM I get a bad stumble/heavy hesitation(only when you are on the gass good). I can cruze the highway with no problem. but when ever I get on the gas I have this heisitation. So what I do Is jsut punch it and get it to down shift -- thus getting me out of the 2500-3000 range and my truck fine. unless your really heavy and then it stumbles at 3500 up. this started when I was low on fuel. but I wasnt THAT low. I have been lower. so my first thogh was that I sucked somthign up into the fuel filter. swapped filters and still have it. maybe because im not running a filter? nope. put one in and the same thing happens. any idea's? Im thinking that my fuel pump is starting to kick the bucket.

ebay you have to be careful tho. bought a 94 FSM that was an "original" but was clearly a copy. not that it matters. paid bout $50. then I just got a 92 FSM for $9. and it was a true original.

where bouts is it? VG30I

no. you have to go custom

cool. have a problem in my high end tho. happens on the hiway at 4500+ I get a hesitation. doing some things to it this weekend and ill see if anything changes. anyone else have any opinions they want to throw in?

any power/milage difference when you advance/retard the timing on the VG30's? if so, what do you guys like?

I removed my carpet. its not that cold inside during the winter. I can get it hot enough inside to sweet like a mofo. your feet will be cold tho. it is loud. just put liner right on the floor. I have rubber floor matts that make is quiter inside and I can presure was the floor without worrying about it. if you do any water wheeling you WILL want the carpet gone. I never planned on removing my carpet. then I dove into a deep hole and the carpet got soaked. wasnt bad the first day. but when I left my truck outside in the sun for a few hours. lord have mercy! it was TERRIBLE! I honestly couldnt drive the thing until it aired out a bit. theres like 1" thick isulation on the carpet that traps water like crazy.

your speakers wires are going to be the same colour for each speaker(ie, right will be green and green/black). take a 9 volt battery and put the wires on each terminal(say green on +, green/black on -) and the speaker will "pop". you will find which speaker is what. but honestly, find a constant and acc. wire. you can run your own ground with next to to problem. and then run new wires to each speaker. thus bypassing the stock amps.

15x7 6x5.5 4.25-.5" BS

yes. you can bind a Ujoint. changing pinion angle on a rear axle is pretty damn easy. with leafs you can get shims. on a linked setup you just screw with your arm lenght. the front is more of a PITA. you can use the same idea as with the rear. but there is also a limit. once you go too many degrees your caster gets way screwy. causing wondering and steering bind. at that point you do a "cut and turn". you cut the welds off the C's. pound the C's off and turn them. you DONT want to point your pinion at your tcase. you will get vibs. that is, unless you have a dual cardian or CV joint on your Dshaft. thats the basic run down. thats quite abit more too it tho.