89_trailboss

Not arguing with you or anything. just really interested in your reasoning. IMO they wont do anything. but who knows. let us know if they do help you any.

and the diff drop bushings wont even drop the CV's by 5/8". 3/16 is probly the most they will drop.

you cant drop the front diff anymore then maybe 5/8". any more and the CV's hit the torsion bars. 88, like I said I ran stock UCA and no bumpstops and never binded. how are you able to bind? are you still running those UCA with the bump stops cut off? if so why not just weld some new peices back on them so you dont bind? do you really belive the extra what, .5" of down travel really help you any?

OR, you could just leave the stock bumpstops on there and be done with it. you wont bind a CV if you have stock bumpstops. I know I dont. honestly tho, what are the bushings, 5/8" drop? I think there stupid. your IFS isnt going to flex much at all. leave the bump stops on and be done with it. weld it up then you wont need the extra .5-.75" droop that lowpro bumpstops give you. hell I ran with no bumpstops on stock UCA and never binded.

diff drop bushings are a joke.

for anyone reading this that is thinking about doing a BL, a good idea is to remove the rear bolts and start your BL bolts in the nuts. THEN lift the body. it keeped my rear holes in line. once the other bolts and blocks were in and LOOSE still. I remove one rear bolt. slid block in and replace bolt. then go to other side. I had no problems lining my bolts up.

forgot to mention, it doesnt matter if its from a MPFI or TBI. I have a MPFI cluster in my TBI truck.

hold it, do what super said. undo the TRE from the adjuster and then just unbolt the lowerball joint.

I would cut the lower balljoint and TRE with a sawzall and then bring that to a shop to have them press the remains out.

if you dont find one LMK. Im sure I got a couple around here.

your ignition signal sender is shot. replace your coil/signal sender and you truck will start IMO. happened on my 89(one day it just wouldnt start) and on my HB(again, went out and it wouldnt start). the coil/ignition signal sender is on the drivers side fender, under the intake tube. just follow your plug wire and it will lead you right to it. the plug wire is connected the the coil. right beside your coil(on the same metal base) is a small box with 2 wires going in, two going out to the coil.

just like everyone else

pull the needles off and put the white faces on your cluster. I did it on mine. worked fine.

bad connection at the batt. I cut all my fusable links out and connected all 8 or so of the wires to a 10gauge wire and then ran that to my batt. works great.

I would rather have the long rear, stock front drive shaft lenght. this would be great cause if you were to do a doubler the rear would be abit shorter.

yes, alot of HB's had them.

Im really interested. FYI, no pathfinders came with 2 peice driveshafts.

sweet. yes Im replacing the brake pedel too. thanks guys.

thanks mich.

I was going to put my trucks nose right infront of my parts truck, put some 2x4's between them and just pull the whole unit into my truck. you dont think that will work? insert some sarcasm in there in many, many, MANY places. Im obviously not going to literaly slide it in. Im going to cut my core support out, drop my front diff and torsion bars, lose my trans crossmember and as far as I can see I should be able to put the motor/trans/tcase in as one whole unit. in other words just "slide" the whole unit into my truck. back to my main question tho, is it possable to put the clutch pedle in without removing the dash?

alright. I was hopping to get the Motor/trans/tcase out of my parts truck for today but my buddy rolled his B2 on friday and we spent all day sat pulling the body off and placing the new body on. so Im a bit behind on my project. anyways, everything is disconnected on my parts truck. just have to cut the floor and jack it all out. what Im wondering is if it is possable to get the clutch pedel assembly into my 89 without ripping out the dash? Im worried about the top two bolts for the clutch pedel frame. they mount pretty high ojn the dash. And, If I drop my front diff, remove my CL, and possably cut my core support, think I should beable to slide the motor, trans and Tcase into my 89(3" BL)?

sammys half right. you dont have to swap the whole tcase, just the rear part. just unscrew the tail housing and pry it off. then swap them. thats all I did.

I was thinking of mounting 2 batts under the rear seat. if theres any room with the long arm. a 3" BL really gives you alot of room to play with.

Won an M90 off of Ebay a few days ago. guy doesnt ship to Canada so its going to ND and ill be making abit of a drive when it gets there. Real busy with school lately and was hoping to get a charger before spring break so I could tinker. but I looks like I will be getting it in a week or two. sooo, probly wont have much time to toy with this thing till early summer. but im trying! The only thing im worried about is the belt system. im going to do a Vbelt to start. but ultimatly would like to have a cogged system. Want im unsure of is pully size. to have say, a 2:1 ratio, that means for every turn of the crank, the SC will turn 2 times, right?

no bushing will cause that. the only thing I can think of is a bent axle tube. if you havent rotated your tires in three years and the inside of the right rear isnt totaly worn I wouldnt worry about it. just flip the tires around an drive. it cant be all that bad if it took 3 years to get noticable.