89_trailboss

I would cut the lower balljoint and TRE with a sawzall and then bring that to a shop to have them press the remains out.

if you dont find one LMK. Im sure I got a couple around here.

your ignition signal sender is shot. replace your coil/signal sender and you truck will start IMO. happened on my 89(one day it just wouldnt start) and on my HB(again, went out and it wouldnt start). the coil/ignition signal sender is on the drivers side fender, under the intake tube. just follow your plug wire and it will lead you right to it. the plug wire is connected the the coil. right beside your coil(on the same metal base) is a small box with 2 wires going in, two going out to the coil.

just like everyone else

pull the needles off and put the white faces on your cluster. I did it on mine. worked fine.

bad connection at the batt. I cut all my fusable links out and connected all 8 or so of the wires to a 10gauge wire and then ran that to my batt. works great.

I would rather have the long rear, stock front drive shaft lenght. this would be great cause if you were to do a doubler the rear would be abit shorter.

sweet. yes Im replacing the brake pedel too. thanks guys.

thanks mich.

I was going to put my trucks nose right infront of my parts truck, put some 2x4's between them and just pull the whole unit into my truck. you dont think that will work? insert some sarcasm in there in many, many, MANY places. Im obviously not going to literaly slide it in. Im going to cut my core support out, drop my front diff and torsion bars, lose my trans crossmember and as far as I can see I should be able to put the motor/trans/tcase in as one whole unit. in other words just "slide" the whole unit into my truck. back to my main question tho, is it possable to put the clutch pedle in without removing the dash?

alright. I was hopping to get the Motor/trans/tcase out of my parts truck for today but my buddy rolled his B2 on friday and we spent all day sat pulling the body off and placing the new body on. so Im a bit behind on my project. anyways, everything is disconnected on my parts truck. just have to cut the floor and jack it all out. what Im wondering is if it is possable to get the clutch pedel assembly into my 89 without ripping out the dash? Im worried about the top two bolts for the clutch pedel frame. they mount pretty high ojn the dash. And, If I drop my front diff, remove my CL, and possably cut my core support, think I should beable to slide the motor, trans and Tcase into my 89(3" BL)?

sammys half right. you dont have to swap the whole tcase, just the rear part. just unscrew the tail housing and pry it off. then swap them. thats all I did.

I was thinking of mounting 2 batts under the rear seat. if theres any room with the long arm. a 3" BL really gives you alot of room to play with.

Won an M90 off of Ebay a few days ago. guy doesnt ship to Canada so its going to ND and ill be making abit of a drive when it gets there. Real busy with school lately and was hoping to get a charger before spring break so I could tinker. but I looks like I will be getting it in a week or two. sooo, probly wont have much time to toy with this thing till early summer. but im trying! The only thing im worried about is the belt system. im going to do a Vbelt to start. but ultimatly would like to have a cogged system. Want im unsure of is pully size. to have say, a 2:1 ratio, that means for every turn of the crank, the SC will turn 2 times, right?

no bushing will cause that. the only thing I can think of is a bent axle tube. if you havent rotated your tires in three years and the inside of the right rear isnt totaly worn I wouldnt worry about it. just flip the tires around an drive. it cant be all that bad if it took 3 years to get noticable.

sounds good. may get a full 3" out of them, seeing how both sets of JGC coils that ive had have given me no more then a 1.5"

best(cheapest) way to get more travel is to remove the bumpstops. then watch how many CV's you go threw. ITS NOT WORTH IT!!!! you will only gain at most .5" of extra drop. that wont do anything for you but destroy CV's dont try and get more travel you of your suspension. You basically cant and any bit that you do will chew up CV's. I have stock UCA, stock bumpstops, stock everything just my Tbars are cranked 3". I go threw so many CV's its not even funny. last weekend was the first weekend in the last 6-7 weeks that I havent replaced a CV. yes I do beat on it, but with anymore droop I wouldnt have to give it much gas to snap CV's.

wow, im impressed you got it out. I gave up and swaped rear cases. altho it was out of the truck so I didnt try all that hard.

sooo?

dont know what I would be doing with the old one. probly selling it to you :contract: Im in canada tho so im sure you dont want to cover shipping. a 5 speed is complete bolt on. you dont really have to screw with any wiring. hardest part AFAIK is installing the clutch unit.

three posts later...

its a 3 speed auto with OD. complete rebuild is needed to replace selonoid pack. dont know what the problem could be. but im kicking my self now that I replaced my blown A/T with another A/T. should have gone to a 5 speed. Will be swaping to a 5 speed in a week. All im saying is that if it does need to be replaced, swap a 5 speed in.

what type of X was you were you looking at??? there not even close. you could fit them. but there not a bolt on.

FYI, all WD21's have factory amps. what type of deck did you install? if its an Alpine Vpower, run a 12 or 10 gauge wire strait from the batt. those damn HU are power hunger.

I always do my 02's right after I shut the truck off. just cut the wires and slide box end over it and it will pop right out of there. ive done one cold, soaked it in WD40. stripped all the treads. got pissed. welded new 02 in hope of never replacing. sold truck 2 weeks later and never had to worry about it going bad. man up and deal with abit of heat. your exhaust isnt that hot.