89_trailboss

I could make you one like mine. PM me if your interested

if I had an extra $200 laying around I would have an M90 on my truck. thats how easy I think it is. ive looked into it and it really doesnt seem hard at all. stock VG30i ECU and fuel system can handle 8 pounds no problem. probly push it to 10. Lee had his "miledly tuned" ECU running 12 pounds. stock fuel sys. as far as im concerend if they were to get the belt to rap around the SC pulley abit more alot of slipage would be taken care of. LP only had at best 1/3 of the pully, if you could get the belt to come strait up, then strait down(so 1/2 of the pulley was used) there would be alot more belt touching. but no matter what there will still be slipage in a Vbelt. I never though about the stock Tbelt gears. thats a pretty good idea. like to get a discussion on this. LP mounted the TB behind and up of the SC. making the whole system taller. when the TB was on its side fuel would puddle in the tube, right after the TB. when throttel was apllied the SC would pull that puddle in causing weird throttle response and interesting ideling problems. AFAIK if you were driving the truck on the road you would never know this cause the charger would simply pull the fuel in. I was thinking of mounting the TB on its side still, but have it at a slight angle down so any puddle would be drawn in by gravity. I was/am planning on making all the adaptors out of steel to start then once I found a system that worked I would mill them out of alum. This way it wont really cost anything to make modifications in the beggining.

howbout a port/polish job on VG30E MAF's? not really making anything but improving/modifing. what I would like is a cogged pully to mount on the harmonic balancer for a supercharger. VG30i

not raggin on the guy or anything. hell he started the swap before I did. I just dont remember it ever taking me 4 hours. only electrical thing you should have to deal with is the inhibitor switch.

nope, 2 door path should ALL have the button on the column. my 89 with auto has the button.

the wires on the passanger side, one plug is for the 4 wheel drive light, the other is for the inhibitor switch. 4 hours to remove Tbars

howdy from Canada. too young to remember you but heard many great things. didnt catch if you still had your path or not?

step by step: remove CL cut ends off weld sleeves on press bearings in drill idle and pitman arm reinstall. 88's right. just bring it to a shop and let them do what they have to do.

most ppl wont hear it. You wont hear it if your easy on the throttle. they "clunk" when you are heavy on the gas. lots of power making them slam into gear. like said before, the hubs lock going into forward, unlock for a second going into reverse. lock back up. then when you go back to forward motion they unlock for a second and then lock back up. they dont just unlock going into reverse. they unlock when ever your direction is changed.

I moddified my CL. pics are around(posted them in mid december IIRC in the pic section). if you have to ask if its a DIY job then dont do it.remeber that if this breaks, you can loose ALL steering abilities. I was scared @!*%LESS the first time I drove on one of my modded CL's. I got more comfortable with it and then after wheeling on it hard and having nothing break and seeing the abuse it can take; im more worried about a rocket hitting my truck then I am my CL breaking.

not on a WD21

go get stuck in some mud and rock back and forth. you will soon find out why auto hubs sux.

IMO its just that the tcase is cold and the oil is thich so it wont pop out of 4x4. try backing up a few inches and going forward another frew inches. I know my front manual hubs wont unlock when you put them in 2x4 cause they stick, but if I go back and forth abit they pop out.

I too had spoken to Lee from L&P a while ago about this. jsut like 88 said, what he does is desolders the chip, solders in a socket and reprograms a new chip. then anytime you do somthing to your motor you can simply unplug the chip and send that down to him and he will reflash the chip. or somthing like that. really wish Lee could get back on the fourms. that guy had some pretty extensive knowlage on these ol motors. LEE, COME BACK

I have a maxima fan setup. dual 12", dual speed fans. BEUTIFUL! with both on full my temp hardly gets more then 1/4 of the way up.

yup, 3.3

name?

Mr. R had his keyway round itself out. said that if he would have just replaced the key when it was first showing signs of wear, he would have avoided all the damage that was done.

what happend to the site? no more pics or videos. no more Z32 intake plemns. just steering. that mean the SC kit is finito too?

I wouldnt use em. just not worth it to me. for the

haha, ive had issues with this too. I have had luck with the flathead screw driver to pry it off. usually pops off. BUT, it does bend the thin metal on the top of the distro. havent had a problem tho.

holy crap! dude just bring it to a shop already! I have NEVER gotten a full 3" out of JGC coils. ive tried two different sets in my truck(.52 and .58) and a third set(.58) on a friends path and have never gotten over 1.5". honestly I think my coil spacer setup was best setup ive tried yet. ride stayed the same and it was impossable to drop a coil. even with 14" shocks.

when I cut my cat out I just cut the tube and left it. no power difference in either way.

cool. looks bout as good as a stock WD21 JK, looks killer

If you wheel your truck I would throw strait gear oil in the LSD diff. made mine noticable tighter.