89_trailboss

sounds good. may get a full 3" out of them, seeing how both sets of JGC coils that ive had have given me no more then a 1.5"

best(cheapest) way to get more travel is to remove the bumpstops. then watch how many CV's you go threw. ITS NOT WORTH IT!!!! you will only gain at most .5" of extra drop. that wont do anything for you but destroy CV's dont try and get more travel you of your suspension. You basically cant and any bit that you do will chew up CV's. I have stock UCA, stock bumpstops, stock everything just my Tbars are cranked 3". I go threw so many CV's its not even funny. last weekend was the first weekend in the last 6-7 weeks that I havent replaced a CV. yes I do beat on it, but with anymore droop I wouldnt have to give it much gas to snap CV's.

wow, im impressed you got it out. I gave up and swaped rear cases. altho it was out of the truck so I didnt try all that hard.

sooo?

dont know what I would be doing with the old one. probly selling it to you :contract: Im in canada tho so im sure you dont want to cover shipping. a 5 speed is complete bolt on. you dont really have to screw with any wiring. hardest part AFAIK is installing the clutch unit.

three posts later...

its a 3 speed auto with OD. complete rebuild is needed to replace selonoid pack. dont know what the problem could be. but im kicking my self now that I replaced my blown A/T with another A/T. should have gone to a 5 speed. Will be swaping to a 5 speed in a week. All im saying is that if it does need to be replaced, swap a 5 speed in.

what type of X was you were you looking at??? there not even close. you could fit them. but there not a bolt on.

FYI, all WD21's have factory amps. what type of deck did you install? if its an Alpine Vpower, run a 12 or 10 gauge wire strait from the batt. those damn HU are power hunger.

I always do my 02's right after I shut the truck off. just cut the wires and slide box end over it and it will pop right out of there. ive done one cold, soaked it in WD40. stripped all the treads. got pissed. welded new 02 in hope of never replacing. sold truck 2 weeks later and never had to worry about it going bad. man up and deal with abit of heat. your exhaust isnt that hot.

I could make you one like mine. PM me if your interested

if I had an extra $200 laying around I would have an M90 on my truck. thats how easy I think it is. ive looked into it and it really doesnt seem hard at all. stock VG30i ECU and fuel system can handle 8 pounds no problem. probly push it to 10. Lee had his "miledly tuned" ECU running 12 pounds. stock fuel sys. as far as im concerend if they were to get the belt to rap around the SC pulley abit more alot of slipage would be taken care of. LP only had at best 1/3 of the pully, if you could get the belt to come strait up, then strait down(so 1/2 of the pulley was used) there would be alot more belt touching. but no matter what there will still be slipage in a Vbelt. I never though about the stock Tbelt gears. thats a pretty good idea. like to get a discussion on this. LP mounted the TB behind and up of the SC. making the whole system taller. when the TB was on its side fuel would puddle in the tube, right after the TB. when throttel was apllied the SC would pull that puddle in causing weird throttle response and interesting ideling problems. AFAIK if you were driving the truck on the road you would never know this cause the charger would simply pull the fuel in. I was thinking of mounting the TB on its side still, but have it at a slight angle down so any puddle would be drawn in by gravity. I was/am planning on making all the adaptors out of steel to start then once I found a system that worked I would mill them out of alum. This way it wont really cost anything to make modifications in the beggining.

howbout a port/polish job on VG30E MAF's? not really making anything but improving/modifing. what I would like is a cogged pully to mount on the harmonic balancer for a supercharger. VG30i

not raggin on the guy or anything. hell he started the swap before I did. I just dont remember it ever taking me 4 hours. only electrical thing you should have to deal with is the inhibitor switch.

nope, 2 door path should ALL have the button on the column. my 89 with auto has the button.

the wires on the passanger side, one plug is for the 4 wheel drive light, the other is for the inhibitor switch. 4 hours to remove Tbars

howdy from Canada. too young to remember you but heard many great things. didnt catch if you still had your path or not?

step by step: remove CL cut ends off weld sleeves on press bearings in drill idle and pitman arm reinstall. 88's right. just bring it to a shop and let them do what they have to do.

most ppl wont hear it. You wont hear it if your easy on the throttle. they "clunk" when you are heavy on the gas. lots of power making them slam into gear. like said before, the hubs lock going into forward, unlock for a second going into reverse. lock back up. then when you go back to forward motion they unlock for a second and then lock back up. they dont just unlock going into reverse. they unlock when ever your direction is changed.

I moddified my CL. pics are around(posted them in mid december IIRC in the pic section). if you have to ask if its a DIY job then dont do it.remeber that if this breaks, you can loose ALL steering abilities. I was scared @!*%LESS the first time I drove on one of my modded CL's. I got more comfortable with it and then after wheeling on it hard and having nothing break and seeing the abuse it can take; im more worried about a rocket hitting my truck then I am my CL breaking.

not on a WD21

go get stuck in some mud and rock back and forth. you will soon find out why auto hubs sux.

IMO its just that the tcase is cold and the oil is thich so it wont pop out of 4x4. try backing up a few inches and going forward another frew inches. I know my front manual hubs wont unlock when you put them in 2x4 cause they stick, but if I go back and forth abit they pop out.

I too had spoken to Lee from L&P a while ago about this. jsut like 88 said, what he does is desolders the chip, solders in a socket and reprograms a new chip. then anytime you do somthing to your motor you can simply unplug the chip and send that down to him and he will reflash the chip. or somthing like that. really wish Lee could get back on the fourms. that guy had some pretty extensive knowlage on these ol motors. LEE, COME BACK

I have a maxima fan setup. dual 12", dual speed fans. BEUTIFUL! with both on full my temp hardly gets more then 1/4 of the way up.