89_trailboss

search. you will have to make an air box made that will fit on top of the TBI. the ARB snorkel will mount to the 2doors, but under the hood you will still have to figure someing out.

can you clean your 02 sensor? is so, how? ordered my 02 sensor and they sent out the wrong one. mine is out so I figure if I can clean it, no time better then now.

ship them up here. then duties that UPS rapes you with. then exchange. then you damn close to 500. thats if they ship to canada for free too.

I wont go thorleys unless I find them used. theres no way im going to put close to 500 bucks into headers on my truck at this time. plus I am a welder and work with steel every day. I have no problem making a new ypipe, machining the flange and any other work that would need to be done to the pacesetters. I have heard and seen just as many problems with thorleys as I have pacestters. I may end up attempting to make a set of headers too. one of my teachers works at a local preformance shop and I have seen many of his headers he has built. he's willing to lend a hand and help me with mine If i deside to make some. I have axcess to a CNC plasma and flow jet and have toyed with auto cad(very little tho) so making the flange shouldnt be an issue.

I was my bday today and I got some money. pretty much I can either get a winch(9500lbs Chapion) or headers(pacesetters of course!). what would you guys get? ive been in quite a few situations were a winch would have saved many other ppl's trucks including mine. but my manifolds are cracked and are making a TERRIABLE ticking sould. it drives me NUTS! flowmaster doestn even come close to drowning "the" tick away. just looking for some opions

nothing AFAIK. I didnt even know they made autos. I havent heard of anybody having manual headers that DIDNT fit an auto. all you need to do to make the thorelys fit your R50 SHOULD be just a new Y/down pipe(s) *EDIT* Damn, Mr T beat me to it.

BS IMO

Just a FYI, you can mount a left hand steering box on the right side frame to eliminat the idle arm. no more bend arms/IA shafts.

I have 6" lift and 33's with and LSD and go everywhere guys with rubi's and 35's go. granted they do have more power and can race up sand hills no problem.

its polly bushings. you will have to learn to live with it. you can remove them and grease them, but it will only last for a little while. after that they will start up again.

well after a quick seach, looks like distributor and the little black box beside the coil will need to be replaced. but I also found a guy saying that he found JSUT the crank postion sensor. heres the info: www.net-parts-express.com part# NI036449 Made by FACET Site says: "Crank Position Sensor fits O.E. Dist #'s 22100-16E00 22100-16E03 CRANK ANGLE SNR" anyone have any thoughs on what I should do? sounds like code 11 mixed with my 02 could be a cause of @!*%y milage,power, and rich smell. also, my truck wants to stall upon first start(about first 1-2 min of start up) and has a good hesitation/almost miss sound at 3500-4500ish also almost stall when accelerating from stops. but only some of the time. some days its every stop, others it will never happen. any thoughs?

finaly pulled my codes on my 89 VG30i. not as bad as I though it would be, but still... anyways, heres the damage: 11: Crank Angle Sensor/Camshaft Position Sensor 21: Ignition Signal 33: 02 sensor 02 will be replaced this weekend if it comes in. now the other two tho... the ignition signal I have no clue where to look. only shop manual we have is for 94 and I cant find anything on it. but from the diagrams in the shop manul, the Camshaft position sensor is built into the distributor, and and the igniton coild is wired to the position sensor. so im woundering if fixing code 21 will help with 11. just a shot in the dark tho. anyone have any clues on where to start with codes 21 and 11? thanks alot, Dallas

I did my BL by my self. took one saturday. not even actually.

soo, did you get 33" goodyears of BFG's? you pics show BFG's, but your post says other wise. I didnt know that you could get 33x9.5" bfg's

year? and HELLO

wow, didnt even notice the date. was thinking why the 10.5" tires were back on, and the stock centerlink...

tighten the screws down on the valve cover. most of the time the gasket jsut needs to be squishe a bit more.

I ran 235 with 6" of lift for a week. very tippy and looked TINY. I really liked how mine sat with 3" and 31's and 6" and 33's.

88, did you notice any difference in milage/power when you cleaned all that crap outa the intake?

ive wanted to do this. but looking at all the "creases" in the rear floor it scares me to think about sanding/preping all that surface

unno. I called nissan here and the guy there said thats why. and the guys at AC also said so. unno. at anyrate Im running ATF in mine. works fine.

longer? I had to make mine shorter. the bottom that is. the top was just fine.

use what ever is in transmission. the point to the ATF is so that if your seal is gone, you wont get gear oil into your trans.

hmm, well someone has replaced my O2 with a universal 3 wire. think ill find one of the cheapos and see what happens.

89 pathfinder SE V6 auto 276 xxx km its getting colder up here and my pathy seems to idle alittle rough. almost a miss. and my truck runs rich. in park or neutral, give abit of gas, you vet a GOOD wiff of gas. and all my friends that follow behind me say that they smell gas.(there is no leak, jsut the unburnt gas smell). and I get @!*%Y milage. best ever was 280 miles to a tank. I dont drive crazy, but I dont have a problem keeping up with traffic either. My dad had the truck for bout 4 years before I got it. and we both dont ever remember replacing the O2 sensor. parts store wanted 250+ IIRC. anyone ever use universal O2's? there much cheaper. I also dont have afew things on my truck. cat, EGR, AB valve. also, PCV valve. we have never replaced it. anyone have any opions on what I should look into for milage purposes.