89_trailboss

the only one I have on mine was supposed to be black bedliner, but theres dents and lots of mud our 95 had both black ones.

MWS hit it on the head!!! I threw the old box on and it drove fine. then started the process of elimination. had NOTHING hooked up and still ran fine. so the only thing left is the fact that the air box is too small. so I will be throwing one together later this week and tryin it again. the box I made only let air in for the front of the TBI to breath in. there was about 1/2" from the sides and back of the TB to the walls of the box. here was the basic idea, stock after: (notice the racing red cap!!!! haha)

alright, AB valve= anti backfire valve. do I really need this?

the plemn actually is quite small. I tried disconnecting the pipe right at the plemn, same thing happens. But, what does this A.B. valve do? In the rush of things I grabed heater hose and slaped it inbetween the intake man. and the AB valve(basically lengthen the stock peice). but that hose is under vacum and as soon as I start the truck that hose calapses like no other. like there is NO air getting threw. so im gussing thats the problem, no? and the EGR, any better milage/performance? teacher said that I would probly see some gains if I unhook it. I does work(moves and holds itself when finger is over hose) and I will try and get pics

actually, after reading my post again. its kinda stupid. obviously the problem is the fact that the temp sensor isnt hooked up. is there anyway I can cheat/bypass this? maybe 88 could chimn in???

alright, VG30I. put a new intake on. only hose that I didnt hook up was for the air intake temp sensor. I simply put a screw into the end of the hose. truck idles fine, with no load(not in gear) it will rev fine. it will drive fine, except for when I reach 1/2 throttle. the motor starts to drown itself out. and im sure if I kept given on the skinny it would probly stall out. almost like theres too much fuel. anyideas what could be wrong? If I put the old air box/intake back on it will run fine. this "new" intake Is somthing that I made. it sits ontop of the TBI(steel airbox idea) then goes into a flex/rubber pipe(off of a VG30E) then into 2" ABS into the fender then up by the Apillar it goes into a 3" ABS pipe then there is a cone filter on the roof. the only thing that isnt like stock is the fact that temp sensor hose isnt hooked up(screw in it) and there is a hiflow cone filter instead of the new fram. HELP :help: <- Edited your title for ease of search locating it later - V ->

bumpstops help on the compression side of the suspension

holy @!*%!!! my best was 330km to a tank!!! 89 with full 2.5" exhauste, flowmaster 40 no cat. 8mm plug wires new cap rotor, air filter. now I have yet to do a full tank without some wheeling (usually 4 low type of stuff) so im usually using 1/4 tank jsut for wheeling, but still... it sux. and beeing 16 with no job right now is making things alittle tight I do have 31's and 3.5" sus lift, 4 6" lights on the roof and a fresh layer of mud all the time. but my dads totaly stock 94 path. 235's. is getting 440 km to a tank. that isnt that good from the sounds of it...

TM and then a bit of a tbar crank

so what about autos? we towed our 95 auto 4x4 with a car dolly, but we only could tow it backwards(rear tires off the ground) we tried turning it around but the rear tires would not spin at all. tcase in N and trans in N. why is this?

exactly

you can put more disks in the rear LSD to make it tighter. you COULD weld all the clutches together and then it would be locked. and IIRC there was a guy on NOR that was trying to machine a hunk of steel to take place of all the clutches, to lock it.

mine does the EXACT same thing. but I have 3.5" lift. I just replaced my panhard rod bushings too. oh well, it really doesnt bother me cause as long as im not jumpin on and off the gas rapidly down the high way there is no movement.

so you want to get some nice looking seats, from a junk yard? wow... look around the jy and you will see that nothing will fit like OEM seats. your ONLY option is to get yours recoverd, seat covers or find some OEM leathers. thats it, take your pick.

yup, remove the three nuts. then pry the anchor off with a screwdriver *EDIT* watch out, once the achor slids back enough the Tbar will drop and hit you in the head :oops:

297 000km on 94 274 000km on 89 264 000km on 95 and I trust them all.

just a FYI, I cut the 14 gauge off and welded some 1/4" plate to the carrier. the 14 bent, let the jack rattle and dent the hell outa my rear gate. the 1/4" is MUCH better.

well, if there not DOHC the they should bolt up, IIRC. but the water passages are different. a 3.3 hybrid would be sweet. with a TBI and a SC. mmmmm :cool2:

3 5/8 with

Anything in the diffs is a HUGE help. Both my dads and my WD21's has LSD's and we just picked up a 95 with an open. holycrap!!! you just touch the skinny peddel and one tire will chirp. I think I may swap the open to my path later down the road just to have a locker, cause im sure the diff would be just like an open and lsd diff. 88 has a powertrek. maybe he could chime in here and tell us what he thinks of it.

best thing I have found was to use the pressure washer and spray the inside frame. MUCH easier and faster if you dont have a rear bumper.

why would you even want too? being that the path is from the east coast its gona have a fair amount of rust already inside the frame. and if it is rubber... WOW!!! that would be alot of weight!!!

hey Vsicks Pathy, Is your path a VG30I or a 2.7TD? if it is a VG30I, got any under the hood pics of how you sealed everything??? I just made a cold air for my truck and just curious how/if any others have done a snorkel on the VG30I.

I had the same problem. I pulled the plastic off, welded the holes shut and laid a TON of sound deadener. everything inside the door rattels too tho. all the linkages I also put some sound deadener on to give it mass. I also ripped all the foam/isulation off the interior plastic cover and put 3 layers of SD on it too. needless to say it still rattles abit

88, how does the alum. hold up with rocks? do you think you could get away with say 1/4"? I want to do some skids in the future, but dont want the added weight. so alum seems to be a good way to go. but the price... I get it at cost, but still!!! and I never really do any rock crawling. 95% of my 4wheeling is in mud. just trying to get my truck to slide better