89_trailboss

oh, did you get that winch at costco? How do you like it?

looks great what is it made of? looks like 1/8

can anyone confirm 88's numbers? I asked the same Q on AC and the instruction manual for a 92 said that there: 2 Rear Mount = 10x180mm 2 Middle Under Door = 10x180mm 6 Body Mounts = 3/8x7" Like I said, those are from a instruction manual for a BL for a 92 so maybe thats why there different. I dont know.

great. your the greatest 88!!! So anyone know if the nuts are welded on to the mount or can I replace those too(without having to use the plasma)?

89 Path. looking at 3" BL but its missing 2 or so bolts(ones for the actual body mounts). what is the bolt size (length/thread pattern) for the body mounts? are the nuts welded on or could I just go and get a set of long 8.8 bolts/nuts and use them? Thanks

When I get headers I will be going with the pacesetters. I can/do ALOT of fab work so the problems arnt hard for me to fix. If you have a welder I would get the pacsetters. heres there "lovely" fitment: http://www.4x4parts.com/ubbthreads/showfla...o=&fpart=1&vc=1

and the rear window still works fine. corner of base hits window just a bit but nothing serious.

these are b4 I got the lock on. lock is a Mastercraft marina lock. about 4" long and goes through 2 pieces of 12 gauge on ether side of the jack and through one of the holes in the jack. brakets are 14 gauge. is I was to do it again I would have gone with 12 gauge for those to. also welded on some small pieces of 1/8" round stock so the jack "snaps" into place. anyways to the good stuff!!! I had to do a lil getto work on it tho. zip tie some paper towel to the jack so it wouldnt chip the paint or dent the body anymore then it had. If I would have used 12 gauge the jack wouldnt be able to move at all(hardly does now, only when you slam the carrier shut). also I always needed to replace my pins in the hinges. they have been sittin in the grage for EVER. now that the jack is on there they MUST be replaced. I have to "pick up" the carrier so it will slid ontop of the suport under the hatch. if you have no play in the hinges you will be fine. mine are just REALLY worn out. And last thing, I made a mistake, the jack sticks out about 1.5" past the hinge

meh, hes up here in Canada. No emmisions for us!!!

I mounted my 60" ontop of my rear tire carrier. Bolted and locked on. if ya want pics I can post em up. it sticks out about .75" past the passanger side tire carrier hing because I didnt want the base to block the drivers side tail light. took all of 15 min to do.

To bad you dont have a big amp(or any amp) to actually use that wire, eh? seriously tho, no use in getting a 110 quest amp if your gona run a big amp soon(say like a Orion 2500D, ya know, somthing that LMT would love) and your stock alt in fine. to much work for no benifit.save the money for an amp. but anywho, your gona find that 1/0 is gona be a HUGE PITA to snake throug the engine bay. HUGE! specially if its welding wire. I used 0/2 for my amp install, ran it from the batt across the bay to the drivers side(fallowed fire wall) then inside the passanger compartment. PITA! never mind tring to snake it in the front of the motor. cut that skid off the front. if you have A/C I unno how your gona get the alt out without goin from the bottom...

88, got any pics of where the wires you cut were? im not sure if the wires from a 2.7TD will be in the same spot as my VG30I. Also, can you sellect this lock up in any gear but first and "5"?

wheres his website??? I wanna hear!!!

I took it that he was talking about just a cheroke b/c he said 4.0. the springs off a cherokee WONT give you as much lift. I have tried. I didnt get anything, well MAYBE .5", but thats it. BUt like all otheres have stated, the springs from a 4.3 or 350 will give the same amount of lift. sry if I caused any confusion

they will work, but they wont give as much lift, if any.

anyone got a vidoe/sound clip of a 40 on the path?

keep an eye out for a set on ebay. i picked up some 8mm for 6.95!

one ton shocks may be to "heavy". but who ever said anything about using 1 tons? 88, those chevy shocks. are those stock or aftermarket?

Maybe just put a few small peices of wire to jump the wires over untill you find one at a resonable price.

meh. they will be BRIGHT! I have my gain control for my amp in my ash tray, and when you open the ash tray just a crack it gets really annoying at night(single blue LED) I did mount it "under" the dash before,(to the right of the steering wheel). It was nice there, but the light would reflect right off the all the front windows, even the sunroof. Not to mention the fact that just the light alone was distracting. so it was a HUGE PITA at night! I had to put tape over the light untill I moved it. Soo... If you do pick them up, they HAVE to be mounted in the ash tray or glove box, under seat or somthing. ANYTHING other that on the dash.

turned out to be just the resistor. Got one free from the JY so I was very happy that all it was. I was also able to wire up my 6" lights on the roof, man are they bright! thanks for all the help guys!

Well I fixed it, turns out just to be the resistor. got one free from the JY so I was happy that was all that was wrong. I also got my 6" lights wired up, WOW there bright. but me like an idiot touched one of the blubs when I took it apart, so not suprizingly it blew in 5 min. I do have one question tho, on the back of the risistor, there are those 3 little coils. the one I took out of mine had some grey hard crusty stuff covering the side of all three, it was like one big grey crusty thing covering them all. the one I put in there had the same thing, just it wasnt as much, and wasnt touching all together. any Idea what this stuff could be?

Hey guys, Sry I should probly reword what I was saying(wasnt really thinking right last night) First, the blower motor wont turn over unless I use the cig/window switch, or I pull a wire strait from the batt to the wire coming off the blower. When I do ether, It doesnt matter if the switch on the dash is in any of the 4 on postions or off, And it will work with or with out keys in the ingnition. Now I know that It would do this with the wire strait from the battery, but with the cig/window?!?! Second, I do have both manuals. But lets face it, the chilton REALLY REALLY SUX, the hayness not all that much better. But according to the manuals, theres the switch in the dash, the blower motor relay, the resistor, and then the motor itself. All I need to know is where the relay is? the resistor is that white box thing right behind the glove box, correct? Third, I dont have any power going to my cig lighter. I tested with a multi meter and nothing(like .01 volts) so this would lead me to belive that the cig lighter pulls power off of the blower motor wire, after what ever is blowen in my circut.(because once theres a 12 volt source(window swithch) the motor will trun over(only on full blast tho, which suggests to me that this cig. wire is after the resistor. Now this is fine and dandy, but by the manual, the cig and blower dont have anything to do with each other other than the ground.). I dont know what to do with this thing...

well guys and gals, my pathfinder seems to have a problem. heater doesnt work. can some one tell me where all the parts for the system are. like right from switches all the way to the blower? and what each thing is? and I got a good one for you all, when you take the power wire from the cig. lighter, and touch it to the power wire on the rear window switch(the one that pops the rear window), the blower motor will start up? WTF?!?! and then theres even more weird things going on with my truck, but I just dont want to get into that now :sniff: Last thing, I HATE ELECTIRCAL PROBLEMS! HATE THEM WITH A PASSION!(even though about selling the truck today... :sniff: ) :help:

where would the relay be? Ive checked all the fuses. I guess Ill have to check the connections.