unccpathfinder

^ do u have DRLs? i'm assuming so or it just wouldnt make sense...i dont know the wiring but it may be that there is a different relay for the switch and the DRLs and u have a bad wire somewhere..but i dont have the wiring diagram up and could just be off base completely

let us know what u find out...

that 1st thing looks like some sort of cheesy rear axle (driveline) park brake... or maybe a 2 speed rear end but i dont even think thats possible under our trucks...

i believe that the fog lights draw power from the RH headlight positive wire...and i know theres a fusable link for the fogs...its quite possible that that line came disconnected or chaffed thru somewhere... but i would suspect that the RH head light blew and caused a sudden spike in amps across the fogs and blew the fog inline fuse...check the bulb and that fuse and see if thats the case i reckon?

ohh yea most def...I didnt realize it either b/c i was going to attempt it but after i pulled that 1...i decided there was no way in hell i was going to try to remove and install the other

it also depends on if ure going to college and if u have to pay for it yourself or what and all that jazz...when i graduated the objective was keep pathy running and so was my entire time at school...now that i've graduated college i can spend $ on my pathy(s) it took me 7 years but i finally got a brush guard and lift... its sad b/c i had to spend about $600-$900 a semester on books...but i just thought i thought i would throw that out there... other than that its up to u what u're looking for as every1 said...

how much is an inspection...i removed 1 and im waiting to let the professionals install it...it was a huge PITFA to get the old 1 out...i went thru a set of guitar strings and i cant imagine how difficult it would be to get all that secaflex off and get the new 1 in and have it seal good...plus you will have to buy new trim pieces b/c more than likely you will bend up the top and bottom trim... so to me not worth it...i'll pay the guys $100 to put in this windshield sometime...

i have 95 "auto" thorleys on my 87 with no issues...they may be concerned with skin temps and it getting close to the rubber line and are just use that as a disclaimer if u burn thru the hose and loose the clutch...

i would say where the rusted part is would be at normal ride position or maybe a lil in front of it b/c as the axle articulates the shaft will move in and about prob about an inch or maybe more...to me it looks normal as long as its bolted up to the axle... i just went back and looked at the pic and the "normal" flat surface condition looks to be about .5 ins long you can see where its pretty shinny...i bet when u set it down off the lift that piece is in the tranny and then u have that lil strip of metal then the rusted area and that lil strip is probably when the suspension is at full jounce

well 1st off the protective bell shield is missing...other than that it looks ok to me other than the rear oil seal going bad... you see it on the end...i've seen trucks with that taken off...thats what ures looks like to me (i know mines a manual but wheelmans auto was the same way and i accidently knocked it off while dropping it out and got it to go back on some1 may have just left it off)

i did what 89 said...twisted the inhibitor switch wires together and bam she started...it took me about 2 weeks to figure it out and 1 night about 3 am i woke up out of a dead sleep and went @!*% theres an inhibitor...i had been overlooking it on the schematic knowing there had to be something somewhere to not let it start as an auto in gear

goo gone does wonders...

you can always make room...it just takes a lot of effort...i have to make @!*% fit on these damn school bus chassis' everyday and u would think that with something that big you would have plenty of room but thats not the case its worse than working on the pathy...maybe one day i'll have some time to look at it...i have 2 objectives... make a 3d model of mostly everything on the truck...then using this create a custom suspension or something else cool to make it more versatile but who knows how long all that will take...

was it an automatic harness into a manual truck? if so theres a park interlock (goes to the shifter in an auto) twist those 2 wires together and then she should start...if not something else is wrong **make sure its not in gear it willstart without the clutch in and will roll** i put a 95 auto harness into my 87 manual...with dash i also goofed up some wires somewhere and set up a relay to a toggle for the started solenoid if u search around here u'll find a couple diff topics on it and heres my write up on 4x4parts http://www.4x4parts.com/ubbthreads/showfla...ge=4#Post527839

ohh ok this makes sense...i forgot about the T-bars...i dont really think about this kinda stuff till some1 says something so i just try to think about it without going and crawling under the truck... you could come up with a double knuckled cv with a midship bearing/bushing to get the desired results although i dont think theres a lot of room to work with (maybe 18 ins?) i guess this kinda gets me back to my whole idea of how to get more lift outta a pathy while keeping IFS...you would need a frame...then a sub frame to drop the engine/driveline...and between the frame and body you could have your blocks...but you loose clearance between the axles and ground that you would need to pick up from the tires so over all you manage to have a bigger and better rig

just making sure that i hadnt had too many diesels and koolaids and didnt waste my money on college... plus it feels good to correct the 88

wouldnt that be pretty simple...i would think u could create 2 plates with 2 holes each for the crossmember part...drill a hole through the crossmember/frame up front and bolt the ears on there or even create a drop bracket that would bolt on from the under side? how much could you drop before killing the U joins on the front drive shaft tho...i would suspect only like 3 or 4 ins whats their binding angle? about 8 or 9 degrees?

dont u mean dynamic?...it is a static (doesnt move) the SL is dynamic (moves)

jump the park interlock wires together and it will start...just make sure its not in gear... wire a push button switch up to ure rev. lights and u can flip it on and off when u need it...here in NC rev lights arent required which is good b/c the 1s on my 87...

loose the fender flare or at least the flap and it'll help out a good bit...

haha mines gonna be overalls and boots with a pig and couple kegs for the reception...maybe a liquor luge but that would prob have to byob but we'd supply the luge... although i dont think mine nor the gf's parents would let that go over but at least she was like hell yea....

yep...i pulled mine off and used a pair of tin snips to get it back i took about a 1/2" on each side b/c of the wheels my cuz put on it b4 i bought it... i also grap the fender flares from time to time and im running 31's (i need to crank the t bars back up but i was killing my tires so i dropped it back down after i did the clutch)

this is very true...i know from experience...i had a bad water pump and the belt wasnt due and i was 17 and didnt have the $ at the time to do everything so i just did the pump and about 3 months later the belt popped on me and ate 3 valves... go and buy one at the store...then take the old 1 back and tell them that u didnt need it :X

He was at a dead stop and an F-150 rear ended him and pushed him into an R50...its "wheelmanLS1"'s pathy before the stripping action began...if i would have had the $ i would have bought the whole truck off of him...i pulled the front bumper off of the tire and drove it around as i mentioned b4 b/c i was buying the engine and wanted to make sure it didnt get damaged... i was really shocked when i saw it and they totaled it b/c it was in mint condition...

haha...those are awsome...i dont think i'd put them on my truck but i have seen several all camo trucks here that and some with just the vent visors and lower half of the doors like that...i bet those guys would install that or maybe that family that did an all camo wedding wedding, including the cake...