unccpathfinder

trial and error...once you find the answer let us know...take .005 at a time until the valves slap the pistons then once that happens add .005 back on and thats ure answer...in fact i have a set of heads that i'll sell to u if u want to try it out

with the calmini you dont have to reuse the connecting rods? cuze im pretty sure thats all he needs

alright sounds good..im going sat anyways...i saw a spoiler and hinges last sunday so im going to grab that for my 87...plus i always like to see what i can find up there so if u just shoot me a PM on fri night i'll check B4 i leave on sat morning... the entire control arm would be $15...say gimmie $5 for pulling it and then whatever shipping is and i dont have a problem doing it if u dont find 1...and i could possibly check with my buddy on pressing out the connecting rod cuze its a PITA and pretty much impossible without a press

well after u pull the pulley make sure u mark the crank position i would be more than willing to bet its not marked...line up the cams and then mark the crank to give u another ref...and then count teeth between marks per what the FSM says

i can go to the JY this weekend if its not raining and pull a UCA for u and possibly go ahead and press out the connecting rod if u need it and can wait there were 5 pathy's at the JY this past weekend and all still had their front suspensions

it should be like any other swap...just use the search function...Slick has some swap info so do i and i think theres a name on here like jgt that has pix and info as well...

hey now...not all are so serious but i gotta get me 1 of those...

i think its somewhere along the lines of 1-2 mm of clearance between the valve and piston on the exhaust stroke...dont quote me on that but i think thats what i've read b4...that makes the T-belt almost completely tolerance free...you could prob take like .030 and be ok but i dont think it would be worth the risk

So i had to go to my home home which is like 2.5 hrs away on friday night due to the passing of my grandmother (it was better this way she had pretty much stroked out about a year ago and just laid there and did nothing for a year) but i wanted to rake and mow the yard for my grandfather and of course i didnt have any starting fluid and you guessed it the mower wouldnt start...so i ran inside and found some hairspray popped the spark plug out (didnt wanna gum up the carb) pulled it and on the 1st pull she fired right up... my moms bf was pissed cuze he was like it'll never work and wanted to take 15 mins to run and get some starting fluid...i was like well if it'll ignite to shoot taters it'll ignite to start the mower... figured that might help some1 out sometime if i threw it out there...

dont do it...there is no clearance...

87 somwhere along hte lines of 150k miles on the original and the when i just swapped engines that was another 100k miles on the replacement and it could have gone more... 95 i just changed at 120k miles...it could have gone a lil longer but it was slipping and after trying to do some burnouts it didnt have enough grab left in it and slipped glazed over and started slipping worse and worse

can i just take the engine and throw it in the wd21...that might give her some spunk... i'd get a titan B4 getting that...

www.4x4parts.com http://www.ninfiniti.com/index.asp i donno if those will help

i was saying that if he is going from auto to manual then he wont have the push button on the column...its got a linkage from the column to the shifter...so he would need to remove that linkage (pretty simple) so he could get his key out...but i could be wrong but i remember having that issue during stripping the auto pathy and the key was still in the ign.

doh...i was fixin to say i have a spare heater core laying around thats getting ready to be chunked well go to the scrap yard...also a condensor... good luck with that but yea i think u have to pull the entire dash then pull the blower motor and all of that crap which is a huge PITA then you can disconnect it at the firewall and pull it out and install everything...def not the easiest heater core to change...if it was me with the way the temps are getting here i would have had to put a U tube on it and be cold in the mornings...

well wont the plastic catch thing have to be removed from the column to prevent the key lock from accidentally setting? also there could be an issue between the speedo's depending on if u had a mechanical or electric and what the tranny has...

getting it out is the easy part...getting it back in is the hard...gravity will no longer be on u're side...u will also need to hook up the inhibitor switch or create a jumper where the auto shifter used to connect into the harnes...if not u will not have ignition... just take your time and it should be all good...i dont know but u might have to change the transmission crossmember...i could not get the auto to work with my manual but that was also taking the 4 bolt from a 95 auto and putting it in my 2 bolt 87 manual...but i found a 4 bolt cross member out of an 87 with a manual and it matched up fine... (this was for my lift if i wasnt doing that i would have just used the 2 bolt cross member) that being said if you end up needing the 2 bolt manual cross memeber i have 1 be careful with the ignition lock the manuals have a button to release the key the autos incorporate that into the auto shifter...i kept my old steering column so i didnt have to worry about that... if i think of any other possible snags i'll let ya know...and if u run on anything i might forget to check back on this 1 so u can shoot me a PM and i can try to answer that way too

look at ure driveshaft...youll notice if its the u joint

you are correct

im sure they'd love to see my tag trim that has finally vibrated so much that 1 of the 2 tabs broke so after each drive half of the letters are covered so u cant read them...or how about after i ran a redlight camera and they couldnt see my plates cuze it was caked in mud after i just got done wheeling...heh... i have had a cop tell me i needed to wipe mud off of my plates before after i parked at the grocery store... and i have also gotten through security checks at Ft Bragg b/c my truck was dripping mud when i pulled up (had to go on main post then off main post to get to my fishing/wheeling spot) and when i was coming back on to go off to leave i got out and popped the hood and they looked at me and were like uhh dude ure good...and that happened about 3 times

mines pretty tough to see with the 31 on the back...if he wasnt right on u're ass he could have read it...yea i'd go talk to the DA and take pix of the inside door panel and what not where it shows the sizes...or tell him to get u a lift so it will bring it up to eye level...

to answer u're question..you must: swap oil pan oil pick up oil dipstick and relocate to other side of engine intakes all mounting brackets for accessories and what not exhaust manifolds i could not get the cam gear off so i did not switch the timing belt cover which means you need to run a 2wd hardbody water pump instead of the pathy vg30 pump the maxima 1 will not work the neck is about 3 ins shorter than the HB pump and with this and all of the maxima timing belt cover it'll be sealed up so no H20 and dirt can get in i would also do valve seals, cam seals, head gaskets, front and rear main, valve cover gasket, and then a bunch of lil bs gaskets that come in the kit, t stat, timing belt and maybe a few other things i forgot... it cost me about $300 after i got the engine to get all the parts and gasket set which i got everything from napa at about 25% off... but i will say this...when i busted the t belt in my 87...it cost me about $200 did head gaskets (along with everything else listed for top end above) all new valves, new water pump, timing belt (of course), t stat...took me 3 days total with 1 day waiting on a new valve b/c the wrong valve was in 1 of the boxes and that included the tear down...i would say this is u're best bet b/c u will spend at least 50+ hrs doing a swap...and you can rebuild the top end while the engines still in the truck...

yea u should be fine...might even get a lil better gas mileage...but im not sure what the optimal tire size is for gear ratio's to maximize mpg

the actual treadwidth patch between a 255 and 235 should be right under an inch diff...an inch being 25.4 mm

umm sorta...i thought the 2'nd # was the ratio so a 255 70 would actually be .7*255=178.5mm tall sidewall...i could be wrong but i'm pretty sure thats what they learned us in road vehicle dynamics...a 65 would be 165.75 tall sidewall a 3" (70mm) sidewall would be pretty small...but i was curious and found some google answers and this should clear it all up... http://www.dummies.com/WileyCDA/DummiesArticle/id-2667.html