unccpathfinder

thats correct...well 190.5mm but that .5 of a mm wont matter...

i dont know...it seemed like the MPFI had better pick up...maybe thats cuze the engine had half the miles...

i would try to cut and weld in as much sheet metal as possible...the bondo will end up cracking and looking worse IMO...

the gage and light are the same sensor...the combo is like $100 and just the light is like $8

i would say yes... on this basis... front end: back end: (bumper tailgate and tire carrier (didnt mess up the mounting or side panel)

depending on where you live and how hot then yes it'll matter...i dont know the severity on our engines but we've done tons of cooling tests at work with different shrouds (on big diesels) and the amount of intrusion and different gaps and no shroud make huge differences...if you disconnect the hose at the radiator not too much coolant comes out...i've done this several times...if i have it off i usually leave it off till i can verify everything since it takes up so much damn room you can also use this as an opportunity to install electric fans... and on the body bolt Q...i doubt this will work for a body bolt but usually if i need to line up some holes i take a phillips head screwdriver and place thru 1 or 2 of the holes in the pattern and wiggle it around and it helps out tons to get it lined up...the heaviest thing i've used this on was motor mounts and transmission mtg bolts so it may work on the body if the others are loosened up...

the thread pitch wont matter too much as long as you have the right nuts...i think that with the 1.5 thread pitch you will loose some gripping force but i would think it would be fine...I would def make sure they were a quality grade 8 bolt (not lowes or home depot grade 8) and i believe the rule of thumb is make sure after its torqued down that u have at least 5 threads beyond the nut... some1 can correct me if im wrong but i believe that is the case...its just my intuition not really based on any specific fact

did u do spark plugs recently? the reason i ask here is my noise so u can compare (wait till the fan turns off) bad noise heres the cluprit...small chunk of metal fell in while doing plugs and welded to the head...im really mad at myself for not grinding that thing off and slapping the head back on and checking if it ran...i assumed that the rod bearing was hammered out but since them i'm almost 100% sure that it was just the metal hitting the head and the bottom end was fine but no way to really check that now... but def check everything else out that others said i just figured i'd throw it out there...mine passed a compression test and ran/drove perfectly cept it knocked as u hear in the video hope it something not too bad...

theres a pretty big difference in the 2 different wiring harnesses...i started going through the schematics and decided that since i had the entire harness available i was going to switch that out...i believe some people have done it with what your saying on 4x4parts.com theres some right ups if i recall when i initially started looking to do this... its been a while since i looked at it but i would try to find a pin definition schematic for the ecu and make sure that all the pins go to the same functions and then verify the wiring between the diagrams and see how to hack it to make it work and there would be no need to cut the front harness i believe it has 2 disconnections (1 driver side and 1 pass side) i would take my time and make sure it makes sense on paper before starting the whole project...even when i put in the 95 harness i left my 87 in place until i verified that it would crank up bc if not i was going to swap the intakes out and leave it TBI good luck

no wd21 i've ever seen has bags...unless they slammed it to the road...that could have been a rare option but i dont remember the FSM talking about it anywhere... man thats rough...but seriously..i'd pop the hood....pull the bumper and beat the fenders away from the tires...duct tape the turn signals on...replace the radiator and drive the hell out of her...thats what i had to do in my 87 after my dad decided to get pissed at mom during their divorce...i drove her a couple weeks with duct taped lights and what not till i could get bumpers/grill/fenders...i had to bend the @!*% out of the latch assembly to get it to latch back after popping the hood... and after seeing wheelmans "totaled" truck i wish i would have had the $ to buy it cuze i pulled the bumper off of the front tires and fan shroud...i drove it around the neighborhood/campus with no issues...i was checking to make sure the engine didnt take any @!*%

anytime you can have extra parts its a good thing...it'll save u some $ if something breaks and get you back on the road/trail quicker....

great...i'll have to read up on it in the FSM and check it out this weekend...thanks

ok i know some vehicles have a thing where the gas cap if not on all the way tight can throw a SES light...the reason i ask is i filled up today and about halfway home on my trip the light went off...once i got home i turned it off and back to pos 3 to make sure the light did not just burn out...im thinking i either got some bad gas or maybe a loose cap or something... does the ecu store codes? b/c i would still like to see what it was...

after driving today she acted completely normal...still a light shining...its been raining all day long so i didnt pull the cable and i was thinking along the lines of what u said about pulling the code 1st...i had my 87 throw a light a couple times and just pulled the cable and it never came back immediately always like a year or so later but i will check it out

thanks...got an email back from him this afternoon and he and the other co-owner are "evaluating" to give me an offer so hopefully that comes before friday...I'm pretty excited about this because the opportunity to grow is going to be insane esp if i do a good job which i believe will not be an issue... i'm going to start searching the web and reading some books at to get a jump on it b/c after this project I will be into the aircraft parts which will be a huge learning curve in itself but im up for the challenge and it would be a nice change of pace

yea i can manage...but sat is a long ways away (420 miles worth of driving) and by the time i get home i really dont have the time/desire to work on it so if i could do a quick pull in have them give me a clue to what it is (im going to assume its an 02 code where i have the worst exhaust leak ever) but i want to make sure...but i guess i'll attempt to make it till sat and check them then... i'll prob pull the bat cable tomorrow night to see if it clears and then comes back

Well as most have seen I went out to Cali...so i came back and we went to work just fine...stopped and filled up and noticed that either my roommate/landlord whacked the @!*% out of the pass side of my truck or some1 at work did it today...so that kinda made me angry and im gonna have to check the parking lot tapes tomorrow... then i get almost home and she had a couple of studders and i didnt think much of it and the check engine light is now on...so it looks like this weekend (if she makes it that long) I will try to get the codes and see what shes up to but this isnt what i wanted... and i know its all b/c im thinking about selling her if/when i move out to cali can places like autozone that have readers pull a code on a vehicle that is pre OBDII?

notta problem at all...well the interview went great and I misunderstood him...if he will ever get back with me on an offer, i will know if im coming out there or not...but my 1st project would be establishing a mill and lathe CNC machine that would make most of the prototypes in house, learn how to operate it and build an instruction manual...and then from there on establish a bigger shop while working on other pojects...i dont know much more about it other than i would have a fixed budget and wide open range...a guy i work with has a friend that takes conventional lathe's and mills, purchases a retrofit kit and resells so that will be probably be an approach I look at if I get the job. but i might def take u up on the offer if i make my way out there...thanks btw for the link i'll check it out

i usually dont use the lines on the belts when i put it on...i just count teeth to make sure bc i dont trust a QA team to catch a mismarked belt...if they would have gotten the teeth that far off it wouldnt run

i'd try things until it reached the point that i accidentally screwed it up...i really thing the drilling and chiseling will make it come out eventually...just dont scar up the taper...or once you take it off go to a machine shop and they should be able to press it out for like $5 or if theres something like a northern tool go see if u can "test" the press before u buy it

funny u say that b/c at the roush and bill davis shops here i've seen them manually pulling strings and using those dials

I'm looking for some good media that would be a good crash course on setting up CNC machines...i did this 3 or 4 times under supervision about a year and a half ago...but have all but damn near forgot everything...i've got an interview on friday out there in cali and it seems that he's going to inspect my engineering design and/or CNC capabilities (i told him i only used them a couple times) but i dont want to walk in there and look like a complete jackass... i have most of the basic m codes and g codes and how to write those out manually (used mastercam a couple times but cant remember how that works) but i forgot how to set up the start point and what not...i do know im not touching those things without knowing 100% what im doing cuze i def cant afford to crash 1... if some1 has a crash course link that would help out so I can at least polish up to a dull shine...i honestly hope he lets me do design and machining but from what he sounded like he wants me to set up and run the machine shop...but i guess i'll find out more on friday... Thanks in advance

the 87 with the 95 harness, engine and dash... Thanks for the input though on that temp gage cuze i know there was a tab that looked like a ground and the actual temp probe for the gage so i think this might be part of the problem...it started getting dark so i didnt have time to really inspect it but i did want to take it for a really quick spin around the neighborhood since she hasnt moved in 2 months im really doubting its an the O2 b/c it usually runs that closed loop for 5 mins or so until it reaches operating temp then it starts running an open loop... i just hope its easy to figure out cuze i really want her up and running full strength with no issues

ok just took the truck out for another test drive and a couple times before...the other times i didnt have an O2 sensor in so it wouldnt set off the ses light till it warmed up...tonight it came on and stayed on as soon as the truck was cranked...i looked around on the FSM and cant find what exactly sets this off...i do know since the previous drives i have disconnected the temp sensor and i broke the oil pressure sending unit wire tonight while swapping out starters...i would imagine these both have an oil light and possibly a check gages light for the temp (i have a gage for it but i didnt know if they had a light to say hey dumb dumb look at the gages) the SES light is that more for emissions stuff or what?...i didnt have time to test it out but i was going to disconnect the O2 to see if that makes the light behave as it has before... i also did a TB job but need to go back and verify the timing but im pretty sure its right...as well as check the plugs and all that...but i was mostly curious to what would set it off right away...

good luck..... woo hoo to mud...well i just replaced the starter...she cranked up fine still havent had time to verify the timing since i did a timing belt change...but i know im going to have to do some diagnostics now b/c the SES light used to come on after it warmed up (didnt have the 02 in)...now it just stays on constantly (which wouldnt be a bad thing if i stayed in NC but as every1 expressed the stupid cali thing is gonna eat me up with this whole swap thing...so im hoping its just something with my hacked up gages...i dont want to drag her all the way out there and then they not let me drive her cuze of stupid emissions... hmm i think i might have figured it out...lemmie start a new topic