unccpathfinder

a lot of folks recommended me not do that b/c of the loss of back pressure (i was going to use a cut out)... but you could put turn downs and weld a boss on and attach it there...

dont pull the engine to do the RMS...just the...t bars, tranny x member, drive shafts, starter, exhaust from manifolds to the end of the collector... but do check everything else as well...also it could be the oil pan gasket...if thats the case go ahead and drop out the front axle and replace the gasket while the engine is still in the truck...

95 isnt OBDII...cross check the #'s not the huge # but the actual part numbers...

I did that 1 night...I woke up and was like @!*% I didnt tighten the tensioner...pulled it apart and sure enough it was tight...DOH...i started writing things down now to keep track when I get tired

another way to make it easier is to loosen up the rocker arms (if its a MPFI I would only do the pass side)...pull plug for cylinder #1 and use a LONG pieces of threaded rod, welding rod or something to that effect and turn the crank over until its at TDC (top dead center)...then u know the crank is good...then line up the cams to their "dots" and put the belt on making sure the line with the arrows (usually one of the cams) is pointing outwards) and then count teeth between the cams and crank to make sure its all right ( i usually never line up the lines and just count teeth... i doubt you wrecked any valves...if u did you've done the hard part (or most critical part) for a top end rebuild (replacing the valves b/c i would seriously doubt anything else got messed up and i really doubt the valves did unless it hit a rough spot and wouldnt turn and you forced it) teeth count is 40 between LH cam mark and RH cam mark and then 43 teeth between the crank mark and LH cam mark (which leaves 50 between RH cam mark and crank mark (133 teeth total)

the 6x9's in the rear should fit within the headliner...i just actually swapped a 95 headliner over to my 87 so that I could add the 6x9's in the rear b/c i needed more speakers so now she'll have 4 6x9's 4 3.5" speakers over head (unless i move those i havent decided) and 2 tweeters... heres a pic of the doors on a 95 without the panels...hope this helps u out some...I think it will be a lot of cutting and might be a pita to get to fit flush...unless you cut only enough to get the magnets in the door and have the grills on the outside of the door panels... if you have solid headrests you can also pull those apart and cut the foam up and install some 3.5's in there (thats how my buddies miata had them installed and it was great)

I tell you what will have major rust issues...the new Tundra's...they had a frame cross section when I got my Camry a month ago and it was just a C channel with welded stiffeners...they're gonna have some major issues b/c as it may pass the salt bath's the tests dont incorporate dirt getting in there and wearing off the coatings then the salt getting right to the steel... i just found some small hints of rust on my 87 tonight under the rear hatch seal 2 spot welds have started to rust pretty good...the only other rust shes had was under the trim on the pass side door and now she has a good bit of surface on the frames and rear axle where I never washed the mud off of it almost 2 years ago 3 days prior to the engine breaking and shes just been sitting...but nothing bad (my 95 had more rust but nothing major on it just some around the battery and from the fender flares) but that was taken care of

ouch on the autos...i usually unbolt it...pull back about 4 ins...rotate to the right...pull a lil more...then rotate left...then disconnect connectors...then pull and turn back to the right and it comes out just over the CL or maybe behind it...but those tranny lines do look like a problem...good luck

k...i cant read and comprehend all of this right now...but i need a personal reference...i stripped it all back as im assuming Slick did...so if this doesnt work then thats my SES (b4 i read codes...that would make me happy) but now i gotta check codes this weekend...cuze thats what i did after not running an o2 and now i get a full time ses and prior to the splice i didnt get anything while it was running open loop

leaving 1 stud out will cause the mating flange to warp and cause bigger exhaust leaks over time (esp if you do a lot of highway driving) about the best way to fix that is to pull the head off the truck and get it on a table where you can get to it...or jack the body up off of the frame but thats not real safe (working between the frame and body) other than that I would let it go...it took quite a while for my 95 to get bad and i didnt notice it getting bad until i started driving a lot of highway miles for about 2 hrs a day...but didnt want to attempt it in the truck since i didnt have a 90 deg drill...my 87 i fixed when I broke a timing belt and i had a total of 6 studs break off including the rear pass side that had broken off ages before i got it

From my experiences it runs on open loop for a set time not temp range...when i did my swap and didnt have a lot of stuff hooked up it would run for like 3 or 4 mins without any SES lights and then they would come on

Yea I was talking about the flanges in ref to one another...but if it all mated up without any issues then they should be close to spec...I helped a buddy do some exhaust work on his camaro with getting the new down pipes mated to the headers to the cats to the X pipe (the big issue there was the new 3" pipe wasnt flattened like the original for the increased flow it took about 4 hrs of tweaking but it all worked out to no interferences Good luck hope it all works out

DOH...I just went comparing to my 87 (with manifolds on the stand) and the 95 engine with headers and thats right...and i just realized that I have an even bigger problem in trying to complete the emissions crap for Ca... (im gonna send you a PM about my issue) just a side note did you happen to lay the manifolds on top of the headers to see how similar their path was? I wonder if thorley has a good QA process b/c i would think they have a jig to weld the tubes to the flange and maybe it gets off by 3 degrees or so and the result downstream gives the result u are seeing...I wonder if they would let you get a copy of their tube prints (im going to say yea right) but if you could find a machine shop or something with a CMM and could verify some points to know that the headers are good and within tolerance.. does the crossover pipe match up with that driver side header and match up with the exhaust flange without binding anything up too much? that just seems like an awful lot of interference for everything to be within tolerance

IIRC the 53 and 10 dont matter...its the other numbers that matter...sorry to hear about the ECU...the JY will most likely not take it back and say that "you were the result of it not working" this may or may not be true... i do happen to have a good ECU laying around out of an 87 (MT) that I would be willing to sale...its for a Ca pathfinder (which doesnt mean a whole lot just some different fuel maps but if u're in cali thats a plus) mine is a: 52 2371042G00 MECS-G200 01 6715

on wheelmans engine Last time I checked they were like $275 or so (about 2-3 years ago)...but I think they may be like $350 or something now and IIRC the gaskets need to be upgraded to a mr gasket set?

i have thorleys on my 87...the only difference is its a 95 engine (but that shouldnt matter they mount in the same place the only diff is the intakes) and they're for the automatic tranny(mines a manual... heres some quick pix i just went out and took...the 1st 2 are of the area u speak of and the only closeness area i had is on the pass side heat shield (its the 3rd pic)

front sway bar?...i may have a spare bracket and bushing available if it is what im thinking is it the bar hanging down here?

i have always done it alone and never been able to jam the flywheel...i always stick an extension and my 18" breaker bar on there and whack it with a dead blow hammer (works slowly like an impact gun and can break it loose that way....

water in most normal situations is incompressible...if the cylinder was completely full of water as it tried to turn over without any air (to compress) the rod would bend or something else could break (blow out a head gasket or something to that effect)...once you remove the heads the engine will no longer be "hydrolocked"

nice work...What was the total time spent on doing this out of curiosity?

no i woudlnt do that...it sucks but more than likely its toast...did you clean the surfaces on both the heads and block before mating the 2 together? i wouldnt say the engine is done...the rings should keep most of the water out of the engine (as long as it didnt bend/crack a rod or damage anything else) sorry to hear about that...

FSM is the way to go

Steps I took: ~Removed steering column shrouding ~removed Phillips head screw on bottom of steering wheel ~removed horn assembly ~removed steering wheel (broke nut loose, left about 4 threads on, snatched it loose to not require a puller, loosened nut and pulled wheel off) ~Pulled back steering wheel shroud off, placed washers between that and steering wheel to push contact circle downward ~installed in reverse order Pix: Copper dust/shavings from posts horn assembly removed (screws that will need to be loosened to remove rear shroud but not all of them) steering wheel removed and the pins taht are eroded away: Shroud side that faced the steering wheel with homemade washers (i didnt have any that size so i used 2 different electrical connector hoops that I cut the wire crimp side off of ) showing the washers between rear shroud and steering wheel with screws before tightening down: the total project took me about 30-45 mins including diagnosing the problem (I had noticed sometimes in a strong turn the horn would work and what led me to figuring this out and hearing that the new nissans power all systems off of one another nad if 1 fails others fail...i then noticed the curise power came from that contact ring and thats that... hope this helps a couple of u guys out...

I'm going to guess that u guy's horns dont work either? I had this issue on my 95 and its a pretty easy fix... the cruise on the steering wheel is powered from the disk that the horn is powered by...the copper pushpins wear down and dont contact anymore leaving the cruise worthless (my cruise went a long time before the horn)... so after probing i got it fixed...lemmie load up the pix and i'll post the easy fast cheap fix...

I just used the NAPA oem replacement clutch and flywheels when i did it in my 87 and 95...the 95 right now has about 30k miles on the clutch since I replaced it and no problems...the only issue I had was the material used for the forks was different so the clutch was a lot easier to pus in I mean a LOT easier... the 95 was the 3rd clutch I have done on a pathfinder (5th ever)and it took me 3 days at about a total of 15 hrs (1 extra day b/c i needed a rear main seal) and being Christmas time no1 had them in stock and/or wasnt open... I would replace: rear main seal throw out bearing pilot bushing clutch flywheel (or have it resurfaced but if u do that u will prob need to adjust the pusher bar under the dash) inspect the oil pan gasket and drop the FA out and replace it if need be (i didn't do this on my 95 and it started leaking about 2or 3 month's afterwards) but lots of extensions and U joints it will make the top 3 or 4 bolts a hell of a lot easier...try different combinations...i think i used a total of 3 6" (or an 18" extension" extensions and 2 3" extensions 2 U joints along with some shallow well and deep well sockets...If i recall the top most bolt I used 12" of extensions then a u joint then a 3" extension and a deep well socket and ran the wrench down the side of the tranny and it gave me good access for removal and installation... I have yet to use a tranny jack for this project and I bet it would make it a lot easier...but a engine hoist through the pass side door with a floor jack or 2 under it seems to work decently for me (this last time it only took me about 20-30 mins to get the tranny to line up the 2nd time it took me about 2 hrs which i had no help on and my buddies camaro took me about 3 hrs by myself until i figured that if i released the pressure on the slave cylinder it makes life a lot easier.... my buddy had an sonoma that he drove on a slipping clutch for about 2 weeks after it started slipping...and it came apart on him... http://npora.ipbhost.com//index.php?showto...3&hl=clutch